Marc clayton
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Posts posted by Marc clayton
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2 hours ago, clivegto said:
This one.
So not a straight swap then
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Anyone know If any other swinger is a direct swap?
the swinger I’ve is trash
Ive got an E reg 750not sure what model that is I’m sure someone could tell me that as well
Cheers
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Ohh I see
I’ll have another look at her when I get in my shed
cheers
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35 minutes ago, Dezza said:
Install the case with the free-play screw removed, then install the free play screw/locknut. If the screw is too short to enable correct free play make a longer one from a SS set screw. All you have to do is cut it to length and then cut a groove in the top so a screwdriver blade goes in to enable adjustment. This all takes about 15 min and no faffing about with pushrods is required
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Not sure what you mean about the screwdriver adjustment? And cutting a grove in the top?
this rod sits in the snail section of the sprocket engine case -
1 hour ago, clivegto said:
Not done this recently but I did right this on my shed wall.
Cheers for that
I’ll screen shot it, because I’ve got a bandit 12 lump that I’m going to throw in my slingy 750 when I get round to finishing this pig
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Must be the 80mm one then
I’ve just put that in and adjusted it, but I think the plates are stuck so I’ll have to give it a run, I’m not sure when this engine was last on the road so I’ll give it a blast to the mot station and get a ticket on her
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79mm
and
91mm
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Just tried the short one and fully adjusted it doesn’t even reach, but if I put the longer one in, my case doesn’t want to close up tight to the engine, even full adjusted to nothing?
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Yep seen that, but I’m wanting to know which rod is the right one?
cheers
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Hello
does anyone know what size push rod it uses for a cable type set up?
I seem to have two push rodsone seems too short to set up and the other seems too long and my casing doesn’t seem to want to sit flush on my engine
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It’s more for time to get it back up and running
if I do try and use the 11 cooler
the cooler doesn’t sit well and it touches the down pipes
so I’d have to make brackets and piss about, where as I just wanted to get it back together so I can start my long term build
and put my rat to one side for the time being
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1
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Just now, Captain Chaos said:
I've had a 600 cooler on my 1127f engine for i don't know how many years. No overheating whatsoever.
But it is not hidden behind a fairing.That’s great news
saves me fucking about with the 11 cooler
on with the build
i go
cheers captain
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Right chaps
this is not going to be pretty
Long story short
got an 1127 lump so I’ve put it in my rat teapot 600
used the 600 breather but clearance issues were still apparent
so had a mate of mine weld up the inside amd then mill down the outside
so that’s all good
ive also used the loom from the 600 bike to save pulling all the wires out, but I have swapped over the cdi
it is running (lumpy) but that’s because it doesn’t have an air box on amd the end can was off
anyway my question is can I get away with running the oil cooler from the 600 lump instead of running the 1100 cooler?
orwill it over heat?
just trying to save time in making the 1100 cooler work
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Yea sound
thanks
does anyone know where I can get a full set up of washers/spacers?
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Now then people
has anyone got a piccy or know how the front sprocket sits ie is they a spacer begins the sprocket??
ive bought an 1127 but it didn’t have a front sprocket on so not sure exactly what I need
cheers people
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On 12/29/2015 at 7:09 PM, Dr Jon said:
Here's the 1100 motor in the 600 frame. Very close fit but no modification needed other than replacing the 1100f breather cover on the top of the engine for the one off the 600. Engine hoist, jack and two people made lifting this engine in no trouble at all, I would hate to try the same thing without the hoist. This goes for the 750 as well, if you're swapping engines then beg, borrow or hire an engine hoist, be a total pain without it
Lucky for you
mine will not go in with the 600 breather cover!!! I’m gunna have to get mine cut and fabricated it just won’t have it!!!
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Does anyone know if any other top yolk will fit a gsxf 1127 front end? One that I can actually drill and fit risers too, the original has rubber cushion mounts and it looks shite
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Cheers ears
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Does anyone know if any other top yolk will fit a gsxf 1127 front end? One that I can actually drill and fit risers too, the original has rubber cushion mounts and it looks shite
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Forgot to say the cable is a spanker
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10 minutes ago, Blubber said:
Put a big block in it
Then you wont feel ashamed of your mate.
As for the other problem:
Check if the inner cable rotates when attached to the speedo drive. The square bit on the cable end sometimes snaps off making it look okay bit ends up to short and wont engage drive side
Not mine lol
ive got a teapot 6 with an 1127 lol never be ashamed of my ratter lol
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It does turn little bit, but it feels notchy, It works sweet if i pull the plastic spline bit out slightly it runs smooth, but that’s not where it sits when it’s on the bike
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Right then chaps
mate of mine has a bandit 6 (not me!!) helping him fix it, speedo doesn’t work, I’ve checked the cable attached to a drill and to the clocks and that all works (mi drill managed 40mph lol)
so I’m now left with the speedo drive, I’ve taken it off, but it’s looks reet to me?? Obviously not,
what I’m asking is they any way of fixing them? Or even being able to tell if it’s fuuuuked or not?
cheers
that’s the little shit bag in question!
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Cheers people, we changed the lot, swing arm bearings and the nuckle bearings no play what so ever now, he's just trying to find a soft link fr it but we carnt seem to find the size on the side of the chain? I know it's o-ring but I don't know owt else? Anyone enlighten me??
Slabbie 750 swinger swap
in Oil Cooled
Posted
My swing arm is knackered so was looking at some others that might be cheaper
guess I’ll stay std, but I’m gunna need a fresh arm if anyone has one kicking about