El Gringo
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Posts posted by El Gringo
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54 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
Whatever the workshop manual states or maybe +0.001" greater. Ring gap is more critical and that is what your figure refers to - if you honed the cylinder to 0.015 - 0.018", the piston would be like a cock in a sock . . . . . . ie LOOSE! If you are using aftermarket pistons, the manufr. will usually state clearence required which could be less than stock if low expansion alloy's have been used.
Ta boss, this would be a set of stock Yamaha pistons going into Suzuki barrels requiring a rebore, so I guess go with the figure in the Yamaha manual.
It's a 59mm bore so a ring gap of 0.004 to 0.005 * 2.3" = 0.0092 or 0.0115 , gives 0.92 to 11.5 thou or 0.23/0.29mm
Does that sound about right?
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Hi all
Long time no speak! Hope everyone is well
Quick question, is there a genereal rule of thumb for piston to bore clearance for a turbo bike?
I did have a search back and found a thread that suggested 0.004-0.005 per Inch of bore
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*Ignore me, missed the first few seconds of the video
It may be feeding back through the dash light, If i remember the way Suzuki earth the dash light through the opposite side indicator to the one that's on.
You may find if you run both wires that run to the dash bulb to one side of it and earth the other into the earth loop in the loom it it might stop doing it
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I think they're 32mm, Original off a GPX600 so Keihin CVKs but as you say near as dammit
Same as mk1 Blandit 6 i think, the B6 slide that I bought fitted anyway
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I'm trying, I promise!
I'm just in the process of respacing a set of Blandit6 carbs to give me another option - they've got the more traditional inlet port that goes under the diaphragm which takes the guess work out of the drilled holes on the original carbs
Got to love a sketchy pillar drill, cross vice, hole saw set up
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Thought i'd better update this - still doesn't work
Going to make a concerted effort over the winter to make it work
Now got a fancy AFR gauge and fancy boost gauge hooked up to a data logger so hopefully i'll be able to see which direction it's going in
Have now put fresh coils, leads and caps on it, along with a new CDI which should rule out anything electrical
It also starts a hell of a lot better now
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7 hours ago, Reinhoud said:
You should ask my wife what she thinks about the bathroom scale method
Nice bike! Is that a 400 frame?
I know better than to ask questions like that!
Yup, 94 GK76a Frame and Engine, the rest of it is a mismatch bitsa of stuff i had kicking about
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20 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
This is the most Bonkers thing in the whole list - I really want to see it succeed - 100+ hp in that ickle thing will be mad!
Thanks boss, it's getting there, I got it to rev to about 7K before the stuttering so i've made a few tweaks to the jetting and float bowl compensation hoses but haven't had chance to test it properly yet
14 hours ago, clivegto said:What is its total weight.
It was approx 158kg with oil but no fuel using the everso reliable bathroom scales and block of wood technique
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Still messing about with the 400, still doesn't run right
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12 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
What are you doing to them - they are probably one of the most reliable bits in the Ignition system - I've never had one fail across multiple bikes over 25 odd years? It's a simple coil of wire and magnetic field that generates a voltage when a ferrous object passes through it - there is virtually nothing to fail ? ? ?
Jesus! Thread from the Dead.
Erm dunno, but it's sorted the shit running every time i've swapped it.
Good news is the Husquvarna one for £17 worked a treat
Also had one fail on my Bandit 4 and on my NC23 a while ago
TBH it's still on the naughty step, i'm building something else that can't be mentioned on here so i'm aiming to get back on it in the summer
It was running really well apart from the not transitioning to boost still. I've got a set of Bandit 4 carbs to try as an alternative.
I'm also thinking about going back to renthals as just thinking about sitting on it sends my back into spasm
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3 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Using eyeball measuring the 'el gringo' adapter and short filter don't appear any shorter than a std HiFlo HF138 filter @ 64mm ! ! !
It's not, the sandwich plate was an extra for my oil cooler, which necessitated the shorter filter to fit behind the turbo
9 minutes ago, badger said:I think he meant I could replace the threaded part in the engine for a different thread output bit from 1 to 1.5 and using the fazer oil filter. Probably my cheapest solution. Nervous of doing any damage taking it though!
^This is what i mean't
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I'm pretty sure from my research that there isn't a shorter filter with an M20x1.0 thread.
I ended up using a sandwich plate as a take off (for an oil cooler) and modifying the adapter stub female end to fit the M20x1.0 bit sticking out of the engine whilst being M20 x 1.5 on the male end which allowed me to fit a 600 Fazer filter which is a fair bit shorter
You could probably get a new engine stub made with an M20x1.5 thread and just use the fazer filter
There's some info in my thread here ->
*** Main info is on page 1
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Gahhh once again the devil sneezes in my cornflakes!
I think the pulse coil has gone tits up again, it was a right bastard to start again and won't rev up, exactly like it was 18 months ago!
However this time i've got a pretty good idea that it's the pulse coil - i checked the resistance and it's in spec but...... the one it stripped off my bandit 4 last week was also well in spec and that was fucked - it was sparking once and then not again.
I think it's starting to break down, so it'll cope at tick over but as the crank spins faster the sensor can't keep up with it
I think i've found one at Electrex World that will work, the dimensions are everso slightly different but it's the correct resistance and looks virtually identical to the standard one.
I only mention this as a new genuine signal generator from Suzuki is a 135 fucking quid!
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Thanks boss
Hopefully if this weather keeps up i'll be testing sooner rather than later
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4 minutes ago, clivegto said:
Yes one pipe that then T's to the carbs. Different size pipe can affect jet size.
What bore is the pipe on yours chap?
Mine is 7mm at the pitot end, then 8mm all the way to the float bowl tees
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10 hours ago, Maggotbreath said:
Going through your early efforts. If ya done it like this your carb mods are correct. Mind you the description of the pitot is a little different than most. For instance my 1100 , I used two pitot pipes one for each pair of carbs. worked dam good.
Yep, I'm 99.9% sure i've done the right thing , it's just tweaking it now
I did debate using 2 separate pitots but for sake of ease and space ended up with a single one which then tees to each of the float bowl breather tee pieces (there's a lot of Tees going on here!)
Seeing that Colin's Bandit works well on 1 (and I think Clive's has one too) with a tee suggests it should be okay
I used the rough calculation from the Turbo Do's and Don'ts info for 1/4" pitot per 1" of up pipe diameter - so for my 32mm/1 1/4" up pipe i ended up with a 7mm ID pitot but then given that the 400 carbs are a fair bit smaller perhaps this is too big, which is where the restrictors come in. Hopefully once i know it'll rev through properly I can go back to the dyno and experiment a bit with jetting and pitot diameter
If the float bowl tees are still causing an issue i shall have to go down the route of splitting the carbs and doing the above - i do think it would be a much better solution but i'll try it as is first and see how it performs.
Fingers crossed it works!
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14 hours ago, Maggotbreath said:
Looking at the rubber T... without it lockwired at boost I'd expect leakage, may be the source of the stumble. Is the pitote hose lockwired to the T?
Yep, there's just enough space to get a proper clamp/clip on it.
The more i think about it the more i think this is definitely the cause - fingers crossed it will sort it out.
I'm not entirely sure why i didn't lockwire it first time round, other than I was going to and then forgot
Should hopefully have a selection of pitot restrictors by the weekend too so will be able to see how much that will affect the running
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2 minutes ago, El Gringo said:
T's on the 400 carbs are identical to the ones above, i managed to get a single loop of lockwire round them, it's pretty tight in there behind the fuel pipes so difficult to get a picture.
Thanks for the pictures @clivegto, that's made it clearer, i think the 400 carbs are a bit different to those. The unused path needs drilling up from inside the float bowl to meet where the stub crosses but it shouldn't be the end of the world
I think i'm going to have to go down this route if the lock wiring doesn't have the desired effect - it's exactly at the 5.5k rpm point where it stutters and then won't pull through
This is where the stub is on the 400 carbs - much lower down
I haven't got a picture of my float bowls so i've nicked this one off the tinterweb but it shows the outer breather path that is un drilled on the 400 carbs
It's not relevant on the 1100 carbs though so i'm not sure why i'm showing you lol
2 minutes ago, El Gringo said:Fuck knows whats happened there.........
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9 hours ago, Maggotbreath said:
I'm curious what these rubber T's look like. I'm assuming each carb has a male stub like the outer carbs have and the T's are female/side over? and that's what you've lockwired? do you have a pic of your lockwire job?
T's on the 400 carbs are identical to the ones above, i managed to get a single loop of lockwire round them, it's pretty tight in there behind the fuel pipes so difficult to get a picture.
Thanks for the pictures @clivegto, that's made it clearer, i think the 400 carbs are a bit different to those. The unused path needs drilling up from inside the float bowl to meet where the stub crosses but it shouldn't be the end of the world
I think i'm going to have to go down this route if the lock wiring doesn't have the desired effect - it's exactly at the 5.5k rpm point where it stutters and then won't pull through
This is where the stub is on the 400 carbs - much lower down
I haven't got a picture of my float bowls so i've nicked this one off the tinterweb but it shows the outer breather path that is un drilled on the 400 carbs
It's not relevant on the 1100 carbs though so i'm not sure why i'm show you lol
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3 hours ago, 69chris said:
cheers - that is a neat solution !!! i dont think there is a huge 'stub' sticking out of my outer carbs to get the hose onto mind ? tbh i haven't really looked that hard
There isn't much of one on the 400 carbs either. I was wondering if i could tap the bit that is there out and use a threaded fitting with a hose barb end to give it something a bit more positive to connect to but decided to try lock wire on the normal rubber tees first
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56 minutes ago, 69chris said:
ahhh i see, i wasnt thinking of replacing the whole tee, just dropping in a small 'dowel' like inset into the tee so the jubilee clip could get a bit of a squeeze on it,
i didnt know there was an option of outer feeds ????
A little internal sleeve might work if you can get it in
The outer feeds i picked up from here -
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Just now, 69chris said:
i was messing with my gxsr11 carbs yesterday and had the same thing, the tee's are squishy and although i haven't tried it yet im expecting issues as cant tighten the clips too much as it'll just collapse the tee's, i did wonder if cutting a couple of inserts from a bit of thin walled pipe and gluing them into the tee's might help ??
It possibly would, but unless you've got the carbs aparti can't see how you'd get them back in. Mine need the squishyness to get them between the stubs.
Ideally i'd take them apart and make a soild joint across and the drill and use the outer unused connections (as per the turbo spondon bandit thread) but i can't get my carbs apart
I'm hoping the lockwire will at least hold some of the boost in
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4 minutes ago, YoshiJohnny said:
He's lost weight tha noz
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16 minutes ago, MeanBean49 said:
Fingers crossed mate. Trip to a good dyno on the cards?
Definitely, although i want to test it somewhere again beforehand to see if it's helped and to save wasting more time on the dyno.
Ian Cross invited me up to theirs to run it so will let you know as and when
Turbo plumbing for a simpleton
in Forced Induction
Posted