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Pipercross MPX1004 dual pod filters.


tabby59

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Posted

Hi folks. I'm just checking in to see if any of you have used these filters on your A/O motors and what are your thoughts. I'd especially be interested in how they compare to the K&N RU-2922. The K&Ns push against the frame of my Slabby enough to push them down some, while the MPX 1004 looks to be tapered a bit and might fit in there better. Dyno comparisons would be greatly appreciated if you have them. If the Pipers flow as well, great, I might give them a try. If not, well, I'll be less inclined.

Posted

Hi Tabby

Can't do you a direct comparison bhp, I swapped filters at the same time I changed from 40mm to 38mm carbs.

here's the fit / look comparison.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pipercross fitted to byke side on bigger shot.JPG

Pipercross fitted to byke from above.jpg

Pipercross fitted to byke side on.JPG

Posted

To make them fit & look better I notched them.

The K & N filters fitted to 40mm M carbs on a tuned Slabby engine made 131 bhp on a rolling road.

The Pipercross filters fitted to 38mm 750 M powerjet carbs, same motor, make 126 bhp on the same rolling road.

Had it sorted November, just in time for the winter. Nice !

Dyno-jet stage 3 in the 38s.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Wow,,,,,, you weren't messing around notching the K&Ns. Something to consider. I have RS38s, which both the Piper and the K&N don't really fit. I had to make aluminum sleeves that I shrunk fit onto the RSs,,,,, with some additional "adapting" shall we say. The Pipers definitely have more room. You are right about a direct comparison. Too bad you didn't try the Pipers on the 40s. My engine is a hot rodded 750/907. It made 142 rwhp without filters, 138 with individual K&N pods. My engine builder said to run the duals to get the 4 hp back. If you are curious, you can see my dyno sheets in one of my Facebook albums. Just look up Tab Burgess

Posted

Yo Tabby,

Sorted through the paperwork, the first one is with K & Ns on the 40mm carbs

 

Dyno run, 40s.jpg

 

This is the Pipers on the 38s

 

Dyno run, 38s (Nov 16).jpg

 

Thing is, when I had the 40s dyno-ed, I was proper on my knees. So Pete got it best as, with minimum expense. It had had a Dynojet kit some time in the 18th Century & the needles were fecked. I couldn't afford new.

It ran 'ok' for some time but then went right off.

Everybody, who ever everybody is, says that the 38s are best & the 40s are too big.

Looking at the results it would great to throw the credit card at the 40s & see what happens.

Unfortunately my credit card in the critical ward & with Christmas, it will be on life support.

However, 

Posted

Thanks nelson! I'm not used to your dyno sheets. I was looking at the bottom graph. AFRs? The K&Ns on the 40s looked like it went lean up top. The Pipers went rich? I can't read the graphs very well. I don't know if you pay as big a "penalty" for being too big with CV carbs. I would imagine that if an engine couldn't quite pull enough air through one, the vacuum slide just wouldn't retract all the way?? Might it still maintain a constant velocity? So much I don't know about fuel mixers. 

Posted

It's all science & black magic to me.

It seems like a different byke when I got it back.

It rides REAL good. 

As best I can tell on 5 degree C roads,

With the 40s it ran ok but here's a shot of one of the needles.

 

Original needle in 40s.jpg

 

Massive wear grooves. 

It still made 130 brake & seemed ok-ish.

How good would they be with the same work I've just put in the 38s.

The 1100 M had the 40s & made 140 I think.

No body had a problem with them then,

 

 

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