BigT
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Posts posted by BigT
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Zman,
That is correct. Replace that part and keep on building
Here's a tutorial for the VM carbs
gsarchive.bwringer.com
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Is this a new bike to you?
Or, was it running fine before?
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You should also check the holes in the carbs the fuel screws fit into.
People often overtighten the fuel screws, enlarging the holes
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Oil leak could be a number of things -oil pressure switch, cam chain tensioner, valve cover
Degrease and spray with foot powder to find what's leaking. 42 year old gaskets are known to fail
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The first thing is that the Mikuni and Dynojet numbers are not the same
Second is the Dynojet kit should have adjustable needles
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yes, a lot of parts went NLA in the past few years
Just to clarify, is yours the single, or twin disc model?
I can't keep up with the differences by country
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26 minutes ago, Baz1954 said:
I'll check out the 'sterilising'. As for 'o' ring I rate them as one of the greatest inventions ever. Used them a lot when I was a submariner. So prefer manufactured.
I wondered if there should be a comma after babies LOL.
I think he means hydrogen peroxide
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On 8/15/2023 at 1:26 AM, Baz1954 said:
Got it out with no damage. Four hot and cold dips.
You should be able to buy a new reservoir from Suzuki
The originals tend to get brittle over time
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On 8/13/2023 at 2:15 PM, gsx said:
I had a gs 1000 custom from the USA a few years back , all were tight ,look at shim sizes after you've tried to measure them to see if any can be swapped around but you will need to pop the cams out to do this , gs 500 shims are the same
Uh, no, just no
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I don't think you need any any O rings with the Cometic gasket
Lots of oii is generally the valve cover gasket
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To answer your question, yes, a GS motor will run with zero valve clearance
Then, it gets harder and harder to start and gets parked for a long time
Since you are following the factory method, be sure and rotate the motor several time and recheck the clearance
You can go to a 2.35 shim in that example, many people run .1 mm clearance
The clearances diminish over time
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If you don't know that your petcock has a fuel filter, well
If you have a fuel filter in line, it can't be for a FI motor
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I'd check to see if the unnecessary fuel filter is flowing fuel
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all 650s are 673 cc
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The tank has one overflow hose for the fuel sending unit.
The carbs have 2 vent hoses for the float bowls and one vacuum line on the #3 carb, it connects to the vacuum port on the fuel tap
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Well, I hope you followed the tutorial before reassembly. The small passages in the carb body don't clean by spritzing carb cleaner thru them
3rd cylinder? Third from left, as you sit on the bike? Be sure the vacuum port is either capped, or connected to the fuel tap
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Yeah, Ed knows BS carbs and how to clean them.
Cleaning is the important step, for get rebuild kits
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On 10/7/2022 at 8:06 AM, DeegzARG said:
Thank you Gixer1460! That illustration is perfect. I’m a newbie with these carbs so that’s very helpful.
Questions about the air/fuel mixture idle jets; should they be perfect? I noticed one of them is in rough shape compared to the others. Should I replace that and is it something that I can walk into any bike shop and pick up or are these special order items.
Yes, you should replace that screw, and check the hole in the carb body where the tip fits.
And, go back up to the carb cleaning link I posted, because years of experience says cutting corners means you'll be cleaning them again
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The pilot fuel screw (not an idle screw) does not appear in the manual, or diagrams, because it is "factory set" and covered with a cap at the factory.
You set it at 3/4-7/8 turn out from lightly seated for stock/ airbox. 1 -1 1/4 turns out if you've got headers, pods,cams, etc
lightly seated because it's very easy to break the tip of the needle off in the carb body. Check to confirm that the needle has a long tip and the hole in the carb body is open to the carb bore.
set the pilot fuel screw as above and tune the idle mixture with the pilot air screw on the side. Easiest to do with a Colortune, but high idle method works well
Remember, this only sets the idle mixture. Off idle is cutaway, then needle/needle jet up past half throttle, then the main jet over half throttle
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I've had good luck and fast service with their products, here in the States
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Also could be a bad fuel trap, and fuel is running down the vacuum line into #3.
check the vacuum line for fuel.
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I am just old and cranky, and remember Joan Claybrook's hatred of motorcycles
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23 hours ago, DeegzARG said:
Oh ok, I feel like I’ve got those adjusted fine at this point.
What would be the reason for the bike wanting to stall when I open the throttle too quickly? Should I turn the air screws clockwise to fix that issue?
thanks again for the help!
Making the mixture leaner won't solve that issue. Gotta be over 3,000 rpm if you want a good response
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1 hour ago, slayer61 said:
Uh... it's actually 85 mph.
Our .gov did that during the early gas crisis to help convince people to conserve fuel. They also reduced the national speed limit to 55 mph. fags.
Actually, no. The gas crises started in 1973. During the Carter years (77-81) he appointed do gooder Joan Claybrook to head NHTSA (traffic safety). She, and others were alarmed by the increased speed of motorcycles at that time. They thought of banning bikes over a certain size (which lead to the Turbo bikes of the 80s), but had to settle for the 80 mph speedometer. since cooler heads prevailed. A sad chapter of US history. The speedo limit was later reversed.
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GS 1000 model
in Air Cooled
Posted
GS 1000s don't have VINs, they have serial numbers
Pogster, post up a picture or two for better identification