Ådne95
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Posts posted by Ådne95
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wow, turned out to be quite the discussion this
Gears showed up now, got them for the equivalent of £45 including shipping. Pump was only an extra £50 so I got that too
Question: I see there's two different part numbers for the pump - 16400-49210 and 16400-49220 - only the latter is listed for the EF engine.
The 49220 one looks to have a different mounting or spacer of some kind. Are the pump itself still interchangeable? (I'm still in the hospital bed and haven't started disassembling my engine, so can't compare the pumps...)
49210:
49220:
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10 minutes ago, Arttu said:
Rocker ratio is 1.6:1 according my notes...
Thanks a lot Arttu! Kent JP3 cams have an equivalent of .351" lift then
you don't happen to have any experience with those cams ?
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35 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
Web cams are likely ground on fresh cast billets, Kents more than likely regrinds on old cams would explain cost difference. I'm guessing the specs are noting different things as you suspect - Web = installed valve lift, Kent = measured lobe ht. from base circle ?
Ah, of course - makes sense
Unless anyone here has input on the difference, I'll just have to get going on dismantling the engine this winter so that I can measure rocker ratio.
Currently on sick leave with a screwed up foot after a wreck, this means a lot of time sitting in hospital beds and now sofa at home... so I've done some planning and made a budget for parts prices I need/want - not really sure how smart that was, I think ignorance is bliss when it comes to project costs
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I've got another question, regarding cams;
I see Web cams are about £845, Kent JR3 cams are £325 - how is the quality of the Kent cams? any explanation for the price gap?
From reading various threads, the Web cams with .340" (or maybe .348") lift should be fine for what I want, the JR3 cams state 5.57mm lift, which equals 0.219"... I assume this is measured at "different ends" of the rocker ratio??? I cannot seem to find the rocker ratio anywhere - how do these cams compare performance wise?
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10 hours ago, imago said:
You can also get higher ratio gears than the 750 has to get oil round highly tuned and turbo motors. @clairetoohas more info on them.
Good to know! But no need for the moment, I'm just planning on a moderate power increase; EFI, performance cam without compromising rideability and maybe some bigger valves
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Thanks guys! Looks like I'll be able to make a good deal here
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Hi! Currently in hospital after a crash, waiting operations so no access to the garage for a few weeks/months.
(Several complicated fractures in a foot, and amputated big toe... I wore proper boots (alpinestars smx V2), without them doctors say I'd probably lost the whole front part of my foot. Wear your motorcycle boots folks!)Well, to the question: My situation means plenty of time to look for parts online, and I stumbled upon a local parts listing with what seems to be the "high flow" 750 oil pump gears for my EFE engine. Can anyone confirm from the pictures this is 16331-45000 (pump) and 16321-45002 (clutch/drive gear) ?
I counted the teeth on pictures, and looks correct - 29t on the pump and 38t on the one behind the clutch.
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4 hours ago, Duckndive said:
Given your location "Norway" your bike is most likely fitted with the "restricted" lower power cams "as were most European models"
so a simple upgrade would be a pair of full power stock cams or "D" marked cams as they are often referred to
Thanks a lot, good to know!
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6 hours ago, Dezza said:
What is your chassis spec? About all you can do externally with the engine to reduce weight is change the sprocket cover to something more rudimentary and fit a 4 into 1 exhaust. With chassis mods there's a lot more you can do weight reduction wise; brakes, wheels, suspension, 530 chain conversion and so on, with the added bonus of ending up with a bike that doesn't want to kill you when you ride over an uneven road surface at speed
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I haven't decided on the chassis plans yet. I have two bikes - the EF and a 1981 gs1100. Currently leaning towards putting the EF engine in the GS frame and making a cafe-ish/restomod build with modern forks/swing/brakes/etc. In an ideal scenario I would restore/build both bikes, but looking realistically on time and money It's more than enough to build just one - at least for the time being
Thanks for the input!
3 hours ago, Arttu said:I think larger throttle bodies with freely flowing air filter and good exhaust should give some noticeable improvement on power. At least my 1074cc GSX1100E gained about 15hp back in days when I switched to EFI and replaced the exhaust with more freely flowing one. And that was with relatively small 34mm TBs and very basic DIY 4-1 exhaust.
Beyond that it starts to get more expensive or difficult, I think. Normal tricks are increasing displacement, upping the compression, porting the head, hotter cams and so on. As you know. All these tend to cost quite a lot or at least require some knowledge and skills for DIY work. I'm not aware of any special bottlenecks in this engine that could be easily improved for significant gains. Or well, cam timing is worth of checking and adjusting if needed. Factory tolerances seem to be pretty bad so you may get quite nice improvement just by setting them to nominal stock values.
I would guess that some mild performance cams would give noticeable improvement even without head porting. But it's very subjective question if that is worth of cost. If your cylinders and pistons are in less perfect shape some big bore pistons with higher compression would be quite obvious solution. They should give results no matter what other modifications you do.
I don't see any easy ways to reduce engine weight. Besides that sprocket cover and possibly some other similar parts. Most of the weight is in the crank, cases, head and other similar parts. In theory you can probably shave some material off from here and there without significant drawbacks but the weight saving will be very small, I think. Or you can spend a fortune for fancy lighter parts (mostly custom made) and get more noticeable reduction. But even then it will be a heavy boat anchor in the end
Thank you for the answer Arttu! I've read quite a few of your posts
15 hp just from EFI and exhaust sounds promising.
After thinking some more about this, I think the plan has to be tearing down the engine first to see what needs replacing. I worked part-time at an engine workshop during university so I hope I could do most of the work myself, or call in some favours from my old colleague there. When I worked there, we built a motorcycle engine adapter for their engine dyno, hoping I can to put that to use eventually
Ok, thanks for the weight input, sounds quite like I expected, but had to ask
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Hi!
I've got a 1984 gsx1100ef (1150) that's ready for some work, currently in the planning/budget stages of the project. First off, I am going to EFI convert it, but when it comes to engine upgrades I would appreciate some input from the experienced guys on here!
- At 115hp from a 1137cc I-4, I guess it doesn't flow record-breaking amounts of air. Am I right that just getting performance cams (and valve springs) is kinda worthless without getting bigger valves and porting as well?
- Any other low-hanging fruit performance-wise? Increasing compression ratio for example?
- I've read that bigger cams requires hardwelded rockers, and that using oil pump gears from a '77-'82 gsx750 makes more oil pressure. Any other stuff that's smart to do with these engines?
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This might be a dumb question, but is there any way to shed weight off of these engines? I found somewhere that the gs1100 engine is about 90kg/195lbs and I guess the EF engine is even heavier Any specific components that could be put on a diet or changed for lighter ones?
Kind regards, Ådne
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Interesting project, I too will be doing EFI conversion on my gs1100 project bike(s) some time in the future once i finish studies. I think you are in good hands if Arttu is helping you out
We do have some competent people on stuff like this here in Norway too, but my impression is they are usually hard to find, and/or expensive... If you are based in østlandet you could reach out to TM Bryhn in Drammen, he did a great job on a custom ECU for our GSX-R engined FSAE car this summer. Also heard good things about SWR (skunk works racing) in Lillestrøm, and of course you have Klev Tuning.
Lykke til med prosjektet!
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On 9/16/2018 at 7:43 PM, SiBag said:
They go in easily. Just a top bearing swap forks are a tad short so a at stepdown yoke is a good idea.
*pic*
Thanks! I see
Well - any ecxuse to do some machining is just great -
Gotta love a efe
How easy does the K3 1000 front end fit? Can you use the triples off that?
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I've also wondered a lot about this, without being able to find a reason.. Might just be a typo on the page?
Edit: this page also states a 10hp difference, but between years 1985 and 1986...
http://motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/suzu/suzuki_gsx1100ef 85.htm 114hp
http://motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/suzu/suzuki_gsx1100ef 86.htm 124hp
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10 minutes ago, coombehouse said:
Yes it will all fit. The arm is shorter which can't be a bad thing & is beefier than the Gsx. Measure the position of the links on the Gsxr as you will need to try & replicate these on the Gsx.
Chain alignment will be wrong & the wheel & carrier will need machining along with an offset front sprocket & 520 or 525 chain. Srad wheels are easier to fit though.
Front end will fit but will be too short so you will have to engineer a solution.
None of this is bolt on, are you sure you want the hassle?
Thank you for the answer!
Just worried it'll look kinda weird if the swingarm is much shorter? Could lengthen it but I'm no good at alu welding.
Will be a "full scale" project build anyway so I think I'm prepared for the hassle. I really enjoy machining so thats the least of the problems
Not going to use the forks off the gsxr600, I want USD forks
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Stumbled upon a good deal for the running gear off an 2003 gsxr 600 roadracing bike. Has some fancy brakes and allegedly upgraded suspension.
Does anyone know if the gsxr600 swingarm are any beefier than the efe one? How about the length? Quite a difference in wheelbase... Will the 600 shock be any good? (probably have to change the spring) Making a new shock mount is no big deal, I'm going to weld the frame for reinforcements anyway.
I ask on here because I've moved to study and didnt take the bike, so can't measure anything...
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Crazy build, fucking awesome
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Following this, I want my efe to be red too, whenever I finish restoring it
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Whoops, forgot I made this thread. Got a closer look at a similar set of carbs the other day, these were off a fzr1100 that has only done ~11000km/6600miles. I opened one of the float bowls, looked brand new. Only 6mm different offset on the two inner carbs iirc. In that case, making a new intake for these would still be cheaper than buying another set of carbs.
I might also be able to get my hands on some 36mm keihin CV's from a yzf600r, would that be better?
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nice bike! I have a real soft spot for two-strokes
A mate had one of these, race prepped engine, really scared a few 600cc's with the acceleration of that thing at lower speeds -
Sorry for bad pic, it was all I could get now. They're 6mm further apart than gsx carbs, so I'll just have to make a intake "manifold" with a slight angle/bend
On the other hand, I came across a set of 34mm mikuni flatslides from a gsxr, would that be a better option?
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Aah, I see
no, they were horizontal I'll see if I can get a few pictures and measurments of them -
They are and the spacing at 86 - 92 - 86 is way off!
Sorry - walk away from the dark side
Allright, looks like you two saved me from a lot of headache, thanks!
"High flow" GSX 750 oil pump gears
in Air Cooled
Posted
No webshop sadly... I stumbled upon a listing on the norwegian equivalent to Eblag where a dude was parting out a 1980 GS750ET