bartman

Lol the cases are cheap. I'd love to throw a forged rod in it if I could even buy one

Ya Im stripping the engine down again going to a lower compression ratio. Water meth and more boost. Will find out if the crank can take it haha

It's a single cylinder. The plenum needs to be bigger if anything. I ran a direct short plenum before and it just bogged out. Needs a gulp of air to get the turbo spinning. And I know it adds lag

It's 2L might make it bigger not sure yet

It's all sorted the carb vent is running to the pitot tube. I just need to fix the clutch slip

I fixed the issues. Now I need to sort the clutch slip lol.

It will be a bit before I can but definitely couldn't do a dyno run.

And what exact carb or carbs did you run?

Also. Should the fuel pressure regulator reference line be connected to the pitot or the same line as the bov/vac boost line

I'm not sure about the fueling to be the problem. There's no indication of the fuel being lean on the O2 sensor. But I have been wanting to get a colder plug. Il try the plug but I say 5 to 10 seconds but it varies alot. And the big one. If I shift too slowly I wouldn't be able to rebuild boost again unless I let off for a few seconds then rebuilt boost. I am using a 0 to 30 psi fuel pressure regulator. With a way over kill flow rate fuel pump. The initial pressure is 4 psi and the float holds that fine. So essentially if I want to do a hard acceleration. I have to shift without the clutch and hope I do it fast enough or it falls on its face. Now say I did a pull in second. Hit 15 psi of boost. Did my quickest shift to 3rd Id have 12 psi throughout all of third. Then shift again. Id have 8 psi and so on. Pretty much the majority of the bull is I gotta wait for boost to rebuild if I want max boost again. It doesn't always loose boost but it does it a lot. But it has gotten better. I changed the air jet from a 135 to 120 and that has worked a lot better. But it still happens.

Like it does work. But if I hold the throttle full for over 5 to 10 seconds it will lose all boost and fall on its face Which is why I suspected the air jet. And took it out.

Sorry It closes the slide and vacuum is created not lost. I sort of figured it out. I took out the air jet plugged the hole and it works better. But not how it should cause now when the I close throttle it floods a bit.

I was using one. The cv carb works good till it doesn't

You wouldn't be the first one to tell me that haha. It does work well when the carb wants to work with me. And it has hit over 20 psi of boost on this tiny little turbo.

That's the gsxr1100 carb I was looking at from the way back machine. It was on www.turbo-bike.com

So everything you guys have said I have done. I set up the carb based on that whole web page. I dug I to the way back machine to find the old turbo-bike.com. and that's where I found carbs set up that were not exactly the same. That's why I posted here asking. The carb I looked at was a gsxr 1100 turbo build. Which was different then mine. Now the page that I looked at from here. Said that a gsxr 750 was ideal for that set up. And the gsxr 750 carb diagram area looks identical. The gsxr 1100 carb at the top, had a plug in the mouth of the carb blocking the diaphragm. So they drilled and tapped under the diaphragm and put a line into the plenum, not the pitot tube. I also noticed it didn't have an air jet which mine and the gsxr750 carbs did. After reading it was saying that the air would pass through the slide and down into the carb when the throttle was closed. Which would propoperly open and close the slide. The gsxr750 carb has a air jet like mine. But doesn't have a line connected to the plenum I'm guessing because it's already open at the mouth of the carb so it seems un necessary. Now since the air jet in those carbs I'm pretty sure go to the intake after the slide. They would not return through the slide itself as much. Which is why I was wondering if there was something I was missing. It seems to me that as air comes into the bottom of the diaphragm. Air passes through there and goes down the air jet into the intake past the butterfly causing me to lose enough vacuum for my blow off valve to open causing me to lose boost. I had this bike running for quite a while but the only way I could hold consistent boost was running really big main jets. I have since lowered my main jet so I'm not as rich. Seems now to be around 11:1 ish. But now I lose boost in that manner. And I tested another carb. It ran like dog shit. But it was way quicker to build and hold boost. But I can't keep using it as it refuses to idle and run at slow speed. I know this is long but if you guys have any Ideas what to do that would be great.

There's no other modification on a cv carb?

I built a dr200 up with a turbo a little bit ago. And I have been annoyed with the carb not working properly. After looking through all the forums here and other places online I think I narrowed it down to the vacuum slide. It looks relatively the same as the one on the 87 gsxr750 carb. I have put a pitot tube coming from the turbo to the carb vent. And I have a plenum before the carb. And it is a blow through setup. When I am driving it will ramp boost slowly then suddenly come on. And as I'm cruising the vacuum slide seems to close and lose all boost. Is there anything I would need to do below the membrane? I was thinking to block the passage at the back and drill a hole and tap a line to the pitot tube. Is that a bad idea? That's the dr https://www.reddit.com/r/Suzuki/comments/15rvap1/turbo_dr200/