PaintItBlack
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Posts posted by PaintItBlack
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Thanks for the feedback Tony,
I’ve gone and ordered the cheap set now, hopefully it’ll all work ok
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So what’s this resistor then , that may or may not be present ?
what’s it’s function ?
where does it go and is it much of an issue if it’s absent ? -
1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
Will probably be better than you have now but after a year? who knows! 12 month warranty - yeah right, try finding them after 12 months! Its cheap so what is there to loose.
Yeah, I’m sure that warranty isn’t worth jack , but as you say “it’s cheap”
think I’ll give it a go, will either be pleasantly surprised or my suspicion of too cheap to be any good will be confirmed
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My mk1 B12 ignition switch needs replacing, key can be removed with ignition switched on, and don’t even need a key , a screwdriver will do to switch it on, also I have a non locking gas cap which is quite fiddly to use,
a new full lock set of ignition switch, locking gas cap and seat lock can be found on Eblag for under 25 quid, much cheaper than buying used, but are they any good, anyone any experience with them ?
I’ve found not all cheap Chinese stuff is crap, but £25 seems very cheap
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Very nice
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1 hour ago, Reinhoud said:
I have a fibre cometic gasket.
It's just a chain tunnel, no pressure on the oil, just a lot of splatter.
Oil is mostly on the front and back, never had problems at the back.
The headgasket is a gasket, so why would it create problems?
I didn't put an O-ring in because I didn't had one.
The teardrop ones at the bottom can be reused too, but do measure the thickness!! If the thickness is still the same you could do it, if they're thinner, replace them.
Also feel if they're still soft, if they're hardened replace them!
Thanks again,
have ordered an o ring now (how does that little piece of rubber cost £30), so will be using it when I do the job
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9 minutes ago, gs7_11 said:
If you compare these 2 gaskets (Cometic fibre and Suzuki MLS) you can see the difference in the cam chain tunnel area, and why one needs an o-ring and one doesn't).
It's stated on Fowlers website that the new genuine MLS gaskets don't need o-rings. Fibre gaskets still do.
Basically, if the gasket has a space for the o-ring, fit one.
Thanks,
Seems I was given duff info from sps
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1 hour ago, Reinhoud said:
I haven't put the O-ring on mine.
Do put some liquid gasket on the front, and a bit to the sides, of the chain tunnel
Thank you,
and could you confirm that you are using the cometic fibre gasket,
were you advised that the O ring wasn’t required, or did you just figure that the head gasket and a dab of liquid gasket would do the job,
thanks
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18 minutes ago, Reinhoud said:
I haven't put the O-ring on mine.
Do put some liquid gasket on the front, and a bit to the sides, of the chain tunnel
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17 minutes ago, gs7_11 said:
Isn't it the new (genuine Suzuki) MLS head gaskets that don't need the o-ring?
Yes I believe that’s correct,
Can’t see why the O ring wouldn’t be used with the cometic fibre gasket, it’s just that I’ve been advised that it’s not used ,
could be the guy at sps was confusing the cometic and genuine Suzuki gaskets
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33 minutes ago, gs7_11 said:
Doesn't sound right to me. Pretty sure mine's got an o-ring.
Yeah I’m not convinced it’s right either,
read the O ring wasn’t used with the cometic gasket somewhere, can’t remember where now, so when I ordered the gasket from Suzuki performance spares I asked if the O ring was needed, he didn’t know so went and asked someone else and they said it’s not used with that gasket, but he didn’t sound very positive, so I’m not convinced and still not certain
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got to whip the head off my 1085BB GS1000, have recently heard the O ring isn’t required with the cometic fibre head gasket, is that correct,
and could the fact that I fitted an O ring last time I had it apart be the reason why the head gasket never really sealed, and got progressively worse ,
pain in the arse as runs really well, but covers the engine and my jeans in oil every time I ride it
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Try nrp carbs , can see a kit listed on there site but don’t seem to be able to link to it
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1 hour ago, wraith said:
Didn't think a 17t front sprocket would fit, as the 16t you have to remove some of the rear cover bolt bit and it just messes the clutch push rod and a 17t would hit the push rod??
My sprocket cover has been modified, I thought it was just a bit broken off, but now seems more likely it was done deliberately to accommodate the 17 tooth sprocket
thank you all for your input, think I’ll go with the stock gearing and see how that works out
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22 minutes ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
sensible two up touring mode ???? On a bandit!!!
whats that.???? Better buy a Hon*a
Now there’s no need for that
sensible ish, relatively speaking
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37 minutes ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
Are you sure its 17 front as they dont fit unless one of the sprocket cover pillars is ground away??
That sound way to sensible anyway
, , on a standard motor 1200 i normally use 15 /47 to give it a bit more acceleration, and liven it up....
Yep, definitely 17, one of the pillars is missing from the sprocket cover, I assumed it had broken off somehow, but from what you say it was probably removed deliberately,
starting to look like the stock gearing is probably not a bad compromise between hooliganism and sensible two up touring mode
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Thanks for reply
80mph at 5k is about where my GS1000 sits, which seems about right
bike will be used for a bit of everything, a and b Road fun , two up touring,
think if I go stock 15-45 and get a 16 tooth gearbox sprocket as well then I’ll have enough to experiment with
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When I bought my 1200 mk1 bandit a few months back the seller mentioned that he’d raised the gearing, for better cruising, I only did around 300 miles on the bike before pulling it all apart for a few mods, the gearing didn’t seem excessively tall, having now checked what gearing it’s actually running, it’s fitted with 17 and 43 sprockets, I believe stock is 15-45, that seems quite a difference to me,
is stock B12 gearing a bit on the low side ? didn’t seem to have much trouble pulling 17-43 gearing, but thinking it’s maybe too much, whilst the bike is all in pieces seems a good time to swap sprockets
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it’s what I used on my GS1000 and what I’ll be using on my B12 engine,
not the cheapest option, but good stuff
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1 hour ago, Peterv said:
Heyy this looks even more oldschool then my Inazuma mudguard..
where did you get the metal mudguard from ?
cheers
Peter
Guard is from Eblag, seller is causeway-316,
handmade from 3mm aluminium, very nice quality and not too expensive at £57
hoping he can make me a rear guard to match, but he’s not very good at answering enquiries
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5 minutes ago, Jaydee said:
Get on to Dynojet UK and Vicky will swap your used needles for new ones. Lifetime guarantee on DJ needles.
Save the new kit or sell it on.
Worth a go I suppose,
spent the afternoon fitting the new kit, but if I can swap the old needles for new
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33 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
They don't look like std steel needles - i'm leaning more towards DJ needles? What do the MJ's look like as if you've got the needles, you'll likely use jets as well?
Only seen one set of Blandit DJ needles and seem to remember them having little taper with blunt tip but could be wrong!
Just as I was reading your reply the postie turned up with my new dynojet kit ,
now I’ve compared the needles I can see the needles that I removed are dynojet needles, with additional notches that someone added for some reason,
can also see the springs that came with the kit are the same as the ones already fitted ,
so would seem somewhere in this bikes murky past, someone fitted a dynojet kit , the guy I bought the bike from thought it was running rich, and said he’d given the carbs an ultrasonic bath, and they are very clean, but he didn’t say anything about a dynojet kit, so guess he didn’t fit it,
seems I got some spares now then
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Trying to understand why my Mk1 B12 runs so rich,
only did a couple of hundred miles on my newly acquired bandit before I started to pull it apart to modify it,
before I pulled it apart I rigged up my air/fuel gauge, just to see what it was saying, very rich , 10.5:1, from as soon as I touched the throttle up to over 100mph, then leaned off a bit 11.5:1 after that, still very rich,
bike was running stock airbox with k&n filter, noisy end can
was expecting to find worn needle jets, but they look good, main jet fitted is 100, stock is 102.5
needle clips were in second groove down,4th is stock
can’t see any numbers on the needles, and they have some notches just below the grooves which don’t look stock, the notches vary slightly from one needle to another as though someone filed them in by hand,
also six grooves , is that stock, thought stock only had five ?
have a stage 3 dynojet kit on order, so will be swapping needles and jets soon, just trying to confirm I don’t have other carb problems that need addressing first
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I’m just in the process of fabricating a couple of brackets to fit an alloy mudguard to my mk1 bandit,
Quite simple really
couple of pics
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Cheap Eblag lock sets , any good ?
in Oil Cooled
Posted
I now have the answer to my question of whether those cheap Eblag lock sets are any good, and the answer is no , not really, they’re a bit crap,
first the ignition switch, connected new switch, turned it on, nothing worked but the pilot light was on , even though it was switched off, hour or so with a multimeter and I’d worked out all the wires in the block connection were in the wrong place, moved them all to correct places and had everything working but no spark, two wires from new switch that should have continuity when switched on, had continuity when switched off instead, could have worked around this I think but had another idea , take the cylinder out of the new switch and swap it with the butchered one in the old switch, that’s working ok ,
the locking gas cap wouldn’t close, the bottom edge caught on the top edge of filler neck when trying to shut it, ground off the bottom edge of cap so that it would close, but then it wouldn’t lock shut and couldn’t remove the key, the locator that should lock in position under the filler neck was too high , filed the top of the locator down and now it shuts and locks , but feels a bit like it won’t be very durable.
seat lock I’m happy to report is working fine, the old one was working perfectly, only swapped it so I have everything working off the same key,
generally speaking all a bit crappy, not entirely surprised at 25 quid, but was hoping it would at least work straight out the box, think I may be swapping it all out again before long