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rideordive2ss

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Posts posted by rideordive2ss

  1. 15 hours ago, Dezza said:

    When on, the red connects to the orange and the brown connects to the grey, forming two independent circuits. The OEM switch has a 'park' function that connects the red to the brown (I think), meaning the park lights will be on when the key is removed. Many pattern switches are of appalling quality and if you have the wrong switch the on, off, park functions may not be as they should be. The OEM switch will come apart (do this in an old washing up bowl so you don't lose anything) so you can clean and inspect the contacts and resolder the wires. Buy some crimpers and use Japanese connectors like OEM so when the plug is split there aren't live terminals sticking out. Use a multi meter to test the switches. Try and fix the OEM switch if possible before using a cheap pattern one. The oem switches are of much better quality than even the best pattern ones.

    Oem the key busted off deep inside

     

    So if I'm understanding you right  the time I had the new switch hooked up and key off was on key on was off was probably the correct wiring then just a shjt switch? I wonder Why it worked fine for a full day off of and ons and rides before I got the great idea to wire it better now have my fuse popping problem.

  2. I just bought a replacement ignition switch but they sent me the wrong one.. I didn't have time to deal with a return so I cut the connecter (it had male connection and needed female) (also this switch was the diffence between a gsx and a gsxr ) for the life of me I'm losing my mind.  I have everything hooked up and everything seems functional... Drove it around for a couple days and a slightly exposed wire shorted and popped my braker.  So I decided to rewire it better then I did during my rush job.  But as I pulled the wires apart I screwed up and lost the correct connection so I had to re trace it.. I am confident I have it set right  but now I keep blowing the fuse under the sear a 10amp that reads "tail"    I just don't get it everything seems correct like I had it originally when I firsthooked it all up.   

     

    I feel like I have a short in the line somewhere so I'm looking now but does anyone know what could be the issue If it's not a short?

  3. Howdy yall, so I got a question for you. How long do you ride a new to you bike before you trust the machine itself won't kill you?  

    I've been fixing up this ol 91 gsxr 750 and got her running right.. been taking her out as often as possible and hitting the highway as much too. 

    I'm a rider since the day I had enough strength to kick start a 72 cl350 (10 yes old) I was a daily rider for the last 5 years until I moved to Canada from Florida but I ride big bikes like 1500 vulcans and Harleys. Never been one for a crotch rocket but I figured I was old enough now not to be to dumb on a sport bike and got and fixed up this 750 turned 904.  I've gone thru the whole bike and feel she is sound but when I hit 140 well tbh even 135ish I start to consider my own mortality with every shake. I'm not used to feeling the wind like on this thing and ofcourse I only ride within my comfort zone but I'm talking KMH not MpH which I can easily ride those speeds on my bike in Florida. Anyone else make the switch from cruisers to rockets? Do you know what I'm talking about? What's your thoughts cuz I want to twist that throttle more and I know the bike can corner sharper then I do. Does it just take time to get used to?

  4. 13 hours ago, Upshotknothole said:

    Hindle is the only one making them anymore for slingshot 750s. I have a US 92 750, same as yours. Came with a Yosh system with a stupidly short chopped down muffler. Ended up running an 1100 and a 1200 exhaust on it for awhile until I finally found a proper Yosh muffler to replace it. Had to buy a 95 750w parts bike to get the muffler. If you already have the 907 kit, maybe go with a full Hindle, or consider an 1100 exhaust for the larger headers.

    The 1100 exhaust is a great idea. And thanks for the info bud

  5. Are these bikes just loud or to I have an issue that wasn't addressed with all that effort? I reshimmed all of them to spec. Adjusted the tensioner, 21 pins and timing was set right to the book. Bench synced the carbs, fixed the leaking float.  It sounds way better in person then before and responds way better but I still feel like something sounds off

  6. 1 hour ago, Upshotknothole said:

    Post up a photo of it mounted, curious to see how it looks.

    For sure.   I didn't mount with the stem hole it also came with another bracket so I used the fork yoke bolt   ill go out to the garage a bit later and grab a pic then

  7. 2 hours ago, bluedog59 said:

    Does it run smooth and quiet when you put the cap back on and the revs go up ?

    Yes   on the road under acceleration she's quick as shit like all 4 have to be running.   I just pulled all the fairings and tank off and tomorrow going to hook a dummy tank to it and try a few more things.  When I did  compression test dry across the board all was well but wet test and the psi shot up so I'm going to do a valve adjust anyways and check the cam chain and tensioner while I'm in there and also bench check the carbs float hight as I hear this could be the case. Wish me luck and any input you or others have is greatly appreciated. 

    • Like 2
  8. 2 hours ago, wraith said:

    Running on 3 cylinders. Start it up check which down pipes are hot, then have a look/replace the plug on the cylinder that's not running. 

    I just replaced both  coils and all wires and plugs as the OE ones had crap on ohm test. I will say that when I pulled the #1 plug wire while running no change was noticed but when I plugged it back in the rpms went up and hung for a bit

    • Like 1
  9. 37 minutes ago, Upshotknothole said:

    They have barely any rubber, only where it mounts to the lower part of the frame below the engine and on the sides of the head. They didn't use push pins back then.

     

    MjExMjQ5OQ-080642b0.png

    Parts #4, #5, and #6/13 are the main things holding your fairings together. 3 on each side to hold the mid to the upper, and 3 more to hold the lower to the mid. Then rubber mounts for 7-10 and 14-19.

     

    Thank you very much bud

  10. Honestly I'm just unsure of where the rubber all goes and the plastic push pins.   This is my first sport bike  so I'm a noob   I've got some clips but that's all I have  again it's just the bottom pan that's in one piece and the L and R side panels   the engine has both side mounts installed.. if I have left over that's fine  it's really just the bottom pan to the side sailings and sides to windscreen 

  11. Hello again  ya'll.  So with my 91 gsxr 750  when I bought her the side and lower pan fairings came with the bike but no hardware. The lower pan section is together as one piece so it's just 3 pieces I'm needing to put back on.  Would this kit (pic attach) be a set that will work for me?  I'm not trying to spend 100 plus on hardware and found this kit but it states it's for 2006 -7   I feel like it would work though.   What are your thoughts?Screenshot_20230502-111018_Chrome.thumb.jpg.7f76cb34ff2c5d87cef37aa5a788e969.jpg

  12. 16 hours ago, Tony Nitrous said:

    I have Quadlock mounts on 3 of my bikes (the ones I use for distance).  Great system, 160+hp bikes and riding like an arse the phone is held tight. 

    Heaps of options, Stem mounts, bar mounts etc etc. Options to add wireless chargers too. I won’t use anything else.

    Doing 500+ mile days on big thirsty bikes I predominantly use google maps. Big help knowing distance to the next servo for fuel at a glance. Needed to find a bike shop in a town I didn’t know, it took me straight to the door. I used maps and pre written instructions for decades. Maps on my phone offers so much more and is quicker and easier to use. 

    It’s never been a distraction and on local fun rides or with mates I just turn it off.  
     

    Short version: The correct answer to the question. Quadlock. 

    Thanks for your response buddy I'll look into the quadlock.

  13. 2 hours ago, wraith said:

    I've never used a satnav thing always been on the old type paper maps (old dispatched rider) but I can see how they are helpful, if you don't have regular fuel/petrol stations and only (like my bikes) have APX 100 ISH miles range on a tank of fuel in a place with a big expanse to travel you need to know how far you need to go.

    Must say thow, a lot of the best riding roads I've found are ones I didn't intend to be on ;)

    Valid point    best rides of my life where places I could never find again if my life depended on it

    • Like 1
  14. 1 hour ago, wraith said:

    Get a mate with a bike that has standard handle bars and let him lead xD you can then just enjoy the ride ;) and it will be all his fault if it goes wrong :D

    Must admit never had my phone on the handle bars, as I just don't trust them holders to keep my phone there and not going down the road after every bump and there's a lot of bumps in the roads in the UK >:(

    My bike in Florida is a Vulcan 1500 and I have it mounted to the handle bars  I love it there.. I don't know the area here in Canada at all so GPS is a must for me 

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