[Raising the rear]

Hi Mrclerk,

I measured the distance between the rear axl and a fixed point on the frame.

Then I  cut the dogbones and added 2,5cm between the axl and frame and then I welded the dogbones back together.

Just measured the distance between centre to centre  of the modified dogbones and this is 19,8cm.

F.Y.I. I am now running a standard set as the raised rear with a modified K8 rear schok made the bike a bit to switchy for my liking 

[Raising the rear]

Since I could not find an aftermarket option, last weekend I cut and welded the dogbones.

Case closed 

[Raising the rear]

This is all standard Suzuki.

The solution I now thought of is changing the bracket were the top of the rear shock is mounted.

This is bolted to the frame so could be replaced without permanent altering the bike. 

If I lower the mounting point with 2.5 cm the rear will raise with +/- the same height.

The link system is linear, I measured  

[Raising the rear]

 

No picture but a screenshot will also work.

[Raising the rear]

Hi,

Got a 1988 gsxr with a 1993 750 swinger fitted.

Now I would like to raise the rear some cm.

I did this before with other bikes by fitting different dogbones, but now the dogbones are connected with a tube. So I am looking for solutions how other people solves this.

Searching the internet has not solved this puzzle, no jack up kit found.

I rather do not modify the original dogbones.

Best regards,

Jochen

[Seat units]

On 4/14/2020 at 8:41 PM, Captain Chaos said:

I believe @minipowerdid this some 15 years ago. But he's not online much lately.

AFAIK frame does not need cutting.

Question is already answered, but is used the plastics and subframe.

Simple switch thanks to our modulaire Suzuki :-)

[CV Carb mod to replace plastic washers, which locate under needle circlip that wear out.]

Hi, finally I managed to play around with my carbs.

Since I am trying to find a simple solution I played with the parts I have.

What I did was to sand down the old spacer and placed this in the low part of the slide.

Then fitted a new plastic spacer on the needle and voila.

It me not be perfect but the result is 

 

[CV Carb mod to replace plastic washers, which locate under needle circlip that wear out.]

Instead of drilling the slide. Why not use a shim to create a flat bottom inside the slide? The original plastic spacer can then still be used. 

When my I have my carbs parts I will see if the above can be done. 

I am just trying to fine a simple solution. Not everyone knows someone with a milling machine 

[CV Carb mod to replace plastic washers, which locate under needle circlip that wear out.]

Since I want to set up my carbs I fist need to get them upo to spec.

This modification is on my to-do list.

 

But I have to ask, why not drill the slide so it has a flat bottom?

Fil the bottom up with a 2mm spacer and the needle sits straight.

Best regards,

Minipower