Serafumi
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Posts posted by Serafumi
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2 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
You are probably in a minority of one with that statement! Jet sizes you advise are masking how badly the carbs are working!
Also many other factors.. exhaust can determine very different jet sizes for a stg 3 kit .. I can only talk from my experience..
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If using an air fuel machine you can get the best from them. I agree they are a little large .. but always had great results on dyno . Stg 1 worked better . Could 4th gear roll on from 2k no issues and I’ve never seen smaller then 150 in a stg 3 . Ran a dyno for 10yrs . So wasn’t guess work
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15 hours ago, Captain Chaos said:
I would never buy a bike from him.
- replaces fork seals without disassembling and cleaning the forks
- incorrectly installs front wheel bearings (should install left first)by then i stopped watching.
Why would you install the left hand front wheel bearing first ?
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150 to 160 mains are used when stg3 .. easiest thing to try is tape up half the velocity ring and see if better ( less air ) or remove and see if better , will give you an idea of which way to go … how good are your float bowl gaskets ??? And what’s the float height set too .. ? 40mm carbs are no worst to set up then any others .. and which way round is the velocity ring ??
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Afternoon all . Hope all is well . I’m looking for a bit of info , as some of you know I’m trying to resurrect my late fathers 11m . I found many parts now . But I’ve not found a single chassis bolt , So my question is . Do I specifically need engine plates from an 11m or are different models interchangeable? Also the front rubber engine mounts ! Are these same as all oil cooled Gsxr engines . Hope to find some secondhand …
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On 6/24/2022 at 9:26 AM, Captain Chaos said:
I'm having the same problem now with my B12 engine and carbs. Roll off the throttle, revs drop slowly. Snap it shut, all ok. With warm engine only. Had been OK for years but a few weeks ago this problem appeared.
Tried new spark plugs, a new throttle cable, no difference. Tried without throttle cable, no difference. Ultrasonic cleaned the carbs and reassembled carefully, no difference.
Now going to adjust the valve clearances (weather permitting, it's too nice to work on the bike, better go for a ride on one of the other bikes ) and see what difference it makes.
Inlet runner orings would be my first point of call . Spay brake cleaner between the rubbers and head while on tick over to see if revs rise . If do you need new o rings
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3 minutes ago, davecara said:
Try Allens Performance over here. I'm sure they'll ship to you and the £ is worthless at the moment so it shouldnt be expensive either
https://www.allensperformance.co.uk/
If they cant post, one of us would be able to sort it for you im sure
Great shout , used them many times for fcr bits . But honestly never thought to use them for oem parts . Great company with a wealth of knowledge
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34 minutes ago, Upshotknothole said:
Price actually works about the same as here in the states, but they don’t say if they have them in stock or not. My biggest fear is them no longer being available once all the NOS parts sell out.
I appreciate they don’t say if I’m stock . But some Gurls blouse parts I have looked for on that site . Say no longer available and your unable to create a basket .. so poss they are available!
and if emulsion tubes are still available from dynojet. It’s an option . Just use good oem needles . Dj needles seem too hard and make emulsion tube oval over time , I had a katana in once for running issues ..- 1
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8 hours ago, Upshotknothole said:
Needle jets, emulsion tubes, whatever you want to call them. Went to look for them on one of the parts suppliers here in the states and they're now showing as discontinued. Are we stuck with dynojet kits going forwards? Factory Pro doesn't make them and uses the stock ones in their jet kits. Are they still available in Europe? Suzuki part number is #09494-00677.
Still available for the slingshot 1100s, but I think Suzuki is killing off a lot of the parts for the 750s. Even more reason to swap 1100s into everything and run RS carbs I guess.
Try this company
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9 hours ago, clivegto said:
Yea but that's not his dad's frame and would make it Triggers brush .
Exactly that . I remember him buying the bike when I was a teenager .. so frame has to stay
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8 hours ago, dupersunc said:
Your Dads bike was an M model originally wasn't it? Bare in mine the M sub frame is slightly different to earlier subframes.
Yes it’s an M . The frame I have I believe is an M . But I will check the number .. dad had a one piece M rear solo seat unit .. so I think it would work with any slingshot subframe ..
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16 minutes ago, Tony Nitrous said:
Not personally, but I’ve snapped a subframe lug off an alloy frame and had it welded back on again. After many years of abuse it’s still solid. I’d be surprised if a good welder couldn’t do it.
I was thinking , as long as I take measurements and pictures, it shouldn’t be too difficult to get correct .
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Morning all . Has anyone welded on a stock subframe back onto on a slingshot frame ,dad cut the original off in the 90s , but as I want to keep the original reg number for frame , I got a second hand frame with lock stop damage, but subframe is good . I planned to cut it off and have it welded onto dad’s original frame . If it’s a bad idea please give me other options. I want to run stock style rear unit
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21 hours ago, fab said:
problem with most other quickshifter brands they dont do them for older bikes
I will be running one on my late fathers 1100m when it’s together…
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21 hours ago, fab said:
problem with most other quickshifter brands they dont do them for older bikes
Hm quickshifter.. available for stick top coils and old school coils
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1 minute ago, Wee Man said:
@Serafumi definately stick around and start a build thread when you get a chance. Share the rebuild with us, your dad had some very innovative ideas with his bikes
Thank you so much for the kind words . I thank him everyday for sending me on this path of motorcycles . Getting paid to do a job you love is priceless..
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6 minutes ago, Wee Man said:
nothing wrong with that, just nice if folks hang around and contribute, share pics, build threads etc. Hence the 50 post minimum.
When the build begins I will start a project page … I’ve not worked on an oil cooled suzuki for years .. got a garage full of bikes . But only 2 Suzukis . Well 3 now . I doubt the project will start anytime soon race season is in full swing
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Just now, dupersunc said:
Robinsons offered a small discount if you mention OSS.
Both are helpful I'm my experience.
Suzuki quite often have special offers on gaskets and the like, offering parts at half price or less.
Both dealers mentioned pass this on to customers.
Fantastic. I will keep that in mind . Appreciate your help .
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2 minutes ago, dupersunc said:
What wrong with that?
Damn those people selling rare and interesting parts to like minded individuals.
Yeah I find that strange . But guess it’s the rules . I don’t wanna sell anything yet . But most certainly will have to buy some bits . As it’s been in pieces so many years . Godknows where bits are …
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23 hours ago, fab said:
has anyone installed or tried a healtech quick shifter.
they look quite different to the solenoid type, so not sure if they are worth it or not?
I’ve done many of dyno miles with all types of shifter . In honesty I used to ask customers to turn it off via their fancy app .. any shifter that you can turn on and off , I’d be weary off ..
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Kinda what I was expecting. Let’s hope I don’t need to much . Do people use fowlers for new spares or robbinsons
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4 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
Re : The engine, if its been stored 'closed up' ie. plugs in and all orifices plugged it should be as good as the day it was stored! If not then moisture will have gotten in and the rust monster will likely cover any steel not thickly coated in old oil. Popping any of the covers will give a good idea of internal state!
I will remove cam cover , sump and 3 sides when I get motor home . Fingers will be crossed ..
do you know if internal parts are still available?
91 1100M with Akrapovic 4-1, Dynojet stage 1 and K&N airbox filter
in Oil Cooled
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The kits should certainly be somewhere in the ball park .. if one clip position makes that much difference. Try putting a dynojet shim under the clip , that will give you half a position .. and I found that having the velocity ring taper out worked well .. mixture screws around 3t ?