[Engine noise during acceleration??]

6 hours ago, TonyGee said:

im just wondering about the engine noise, was it already their when you got the bike ? ive heard of 1 or 2 bandits with an out of balance crankshaft.  

It seemed to be there but quietly. I put a Lextek exhaust on and suddenly it's really loud. 100% not leaking at headers or spring rattle though.

 

 

I've watched a few videos on YouTube of people riding the bikes and there's no similar noises. I'm wondering if it's just insane intake grumble?

[Engine noise during acceleration??]

2 hours ago, wraith said:

Sounds ok to me to, heard much worst than that.

If you don't like the noise, get some ear plugs 

Ear plugs make it louder!!!

[Engine noise during acceleration??]

I've also drained the oil, no sparkles, cut open the air filter, no flakes 

[Engine noise during acceleration??]

Another video, the last run at 4k rpm is the loudest

[Engine noise during acceleration??]

 

Doesn't happen in neutral, but happens in gear with brake on

[Engine noise during acceleration??]

7 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:

Try balancing your carbs. 

Did them after valves, that was my first hope

 

It sounds like a leaky header, but only happens under load, and comes and goes at very specific frequencies???

[Engine noise during acceleration??]

Hi all, wondering if you can help being the experts n all. 

Got a b12, 2002, 20,000 miles and I'm getting a a really annoying knocking / rattling noise on acceleration. Initially I thought it was detonation due to fitting the ignitech, but it still happens when using standard CDI.

Bike is pretty much standard except stage 3 dynojet, pods and exhaust.

The noise isn't there at start or idle, or revving freely. It comes in initially about 2000rpm, then goes, then comes back about 2500-3000rpm, then goes, then comes back between 4-6000rpm albeit quieter, at these revs it sounds more like a grumble than a knocky rattle.

It is apparent in all gears, comes and goes quiet to loud to quiet, extremely consistent with revs. It's not there when I pull the clutch in. It seems to get louder the further the throttle is opened, but disappears with clutch.

Its really doing my head in, and seemed to get louder when I changed the headers, but I've tightened and checked for leaks and nothing.

 

Please help!!

[Ignitech CDI map?]

10 hours ago, MeanBean49 said:

Where you getting your turbo map from? 

My turbo ran best with a standard ignition curvre. But I had big intercooler.

Generally non intetcooled setups people end up with about -3 or 4 degrees off max advance to keep it safe

Just found them from googling 3d ignition map.

 

Had a few runs up the road today. This is so far the most responsive map, I've only been doing up to max revs in 3rd gear and trying to get the revs as close to idle when poodling around. Very smooth, very torquey and so far no nasty noises. Still doesn't behave amazingly well on choke, but comes off choke and idles fine after about 10 seconds. I took a bunch of columns out at higher revs as it created steps where as this creates a nice linear increase

[Ignitech CDI map?]

1 hour ago, MeanBean49 said:

Like I said earlier the stock tps map is just a generic thing, its not intended to work, you need to imvest in a lot of dyno time if you want to use this function and get it setup right.

Thats because these bikes didnt have a 3d map in the first place. 

Ignitech just supply a 2d map mirroring the standard curve that is ok to use as is.

If you making any changes to the map without doing it on the dyno then your pissing in the wind really anyway. I personally wouldnt want to be running 40 degrees of advance at low throttle openings, not likely to be doing your motor any good

Nah I'm going to change it. Again was looking at turbo maps which are for lower compression motors. Stay tuned for v2

[Ignitech CDI map?]

6 hours ago, dupersunc said:

More advance at low throttle openings is normal, for cruising fuel economy,  see the old vacuum advance mech's on old cars.

Curious why you've  retarded it above 8000rpm at 100% throttle?  piston is traveling faster so you need to start the burn sooner in the compression phase.

Because I've been looking at spark maps for high compression engines with turbos, also because I'm a fucking idiot  still, better safe than sorry. Should have been googling 'naturally aspirated' timing map,

And probably ignored this website as it seems so insanely conservative http://www.useasydocs.com/theory/spktable.htm

[Ignitech CDI map?]

3 hours ago, MeanBean49 said:

Read it again, still says 55!

Ahh, 1 post further back. Stock ignitech TPS map has a huge hump in it around 10-20% throttle. If you just add 5deg to everything it gives a couple points around the mid 50s, hence I didn't like it and changed it

[Ignitech CDI map?]

I'm going to turn down the advance at 0-2% throttle. Seems to upset the choke a little bit as advancing too quick

[Ignitech CDI map?]

3 hours ago, MeanBean49 said:

What have you copied to end up at +55?

Max standard advance is 36 degrees iirc, how you +5 to that and end up at 55 I dont know. 55 is likely to grenade your motor

You might want to read my post again... Lol

 

 

 

[Ignitech CDI map?]

2 hours ago, MeanBean49 said:

As far as im aware the 3d map they come with isnt inteded to be used as is, its just generic, because these bikes dont have 3d maps as standard.

A b12 has tps, but its only setup to retard ignition slightly in lower gears.

The standard 2D map is a copy of the standard ignition curve. Ive foumd it always works fine. Usually get the best from stock motors by adding 3-4 degrees to max advance.

3D mapping your only going to get right wuth hours of dyno time, set it all to match the standard map and go from there, you need to be doing loads of dyno pulls at each throttle opening to see what works best. I have heard investing time in a good 3d map is worth it on a road bike, makes running really smooth and improves fuel economy quite a lot.

I've just copied what exists and adjusted based on reasonable guesswork. It's an improvement on the standard unit +5deg

[Ignitech CDI map?]

The stock ignitech maps are rubbish. I enabled TPS and it gives you a mental amount of advance between 2 and 10% then goes flat again, adding 5 degrees to this puts you at about 55' !!! It also gives a horrible surge if your coasting at low revs in a high gear. I've studied a ton of maps and used a generator also going from what I know is safe and made one that works pretty well. Dropped down to 30 degrees at full throttle and it absolutely rips with a ton of torque down low. Will post when I get to work in the morning. 

 

Anyway, what's this secret I missed? PM me

[Ignitech CDI map?]

Would still be interesting to see 750 map, there is so little information on getting a good ignition map out there it seems like it just needs to be ride, adjust, ride, repeat... Without a dyno of course

[Ignitech CDI map?]

Hi all, got a blandit 1200 MK2 with stage 3 and just got my ignitech through. Has anyone made a map with 5 degree advance and 3D map for TPS?

[CV carbs slow to pick up in high gears?]

11 hours ago, MeanBean49 said:

 

Took it out again, same on the flat spot but definitely a bit richer off idle. Going to do the needle another clip leaner and see if it's better or worse. Or should i maybe try doing to a 150 main? Annoying thing is again it only happens when rolling on in a high gear just after cruising, otherwise it goes like hell... Any ideas?

[CV carbs slow to pick up in high gears?]

58 minutes ago, MeanBean49 said:

If your needles are adjustable they arent stock, b12 carbs have fixed needles as standard.

And whether your thought proces is correct is hard to say without knowing how your riding.

On WOT above about 4-6k rpm (depending on gear/load) needles and slides will have little effect on fueling as the slide will be fully open. Its purely down to main jet size.

The slides have more of an effect on low rpm range, smaller throttle openings and keeping the fueling correct at constant throttle

 

The main issue is transitioning through the mid range slowly when in a high gear, there is a strong hesitation that is only overcome when opening the throttle quickly. Not noticeable in lower gears, bottom and and top end run perfectly

[CV carbs slow to pick up in high gears?]

Done 4 changes today

Raised 2 clips, way better but now it has a lean spot that nearly clears when warm

Tried original needles on bottom clips, too rich at idle

Tried original needles at 3rd clip, too lean in the mid

So now I've left the dynojet needles in as they were, but out the original springs back in in the hope that maybe the carb was lifting too high too soon and not able to pull enough fuel during roll on, is this thought process correct? Work in the morning so no test ride until tomorrow evening

Also, visor flew off my helmet :'(

If that doesn't work then the next step will be to drop 1 clip and see if that's the happy medium

 

 

[CV carbs slow to pick up in high gears?]

10 minutes ago, MeanBean49 said:

Normally find with a b12 on pods that work (k+n or ramair) the kit supplied jets are too big. Ive always found 140/145 to be where you end up, maybe smaller.

Needles its not really worth bothering with until main jet is right.

Which if you arent going to use dyno takes some WOT in higher gears at high rpm, followed by immediately killing motor and stopping so you can check your plug colour.

Give yourself about 97 days faffing and chopping and changing and you should get close enough to start thinking about mid range and needles 

The plan is to get it nicely close then take it for a dyno run. I've got some 150 mains also to try. And I'm getting carbs out, rejetted and back within an hour 

[CV carbs slow to pick up in high gears?]

From what I've done so far 

 

Rich - no power but smooth

Lean - cuts out, pops and bangs

So this is making me think leaner on the needle

 

With regards to the main jet, the range with pods seems to be 150-160 so I just went in the middle for now and it's a great improvement on standard

 

 

 

[CV carbs slow to pick up in high gears?]

Morning all! I've got a V12 MK2 with full system and ramair pods with the velocity stacks in.

 

Hopefully the bike is modified enough it's allowed on here 

 

I've currently got 27.5 pilot, 1.5 turns, dynojet stage 1 needles at 3rd from bottom, dynojet stage 1 slide springs and 155 mains. The bike runs amazingly when going through the gears, the issue I'm having is that when I'm at medium revs and roll on the throttle the pick up is very weak and slow until I've twisted the the throttle fully. But when running through gears the bike runs lovely and powerful. It almost feels like the slide is refusing to open or maybe at lower positions it is rich? I had the needles at bottom clip before this and the I had the same problem off idle as well.

 

Any suggestions? My next thought is to drop the needles another clip...

[Bandit 1200 MK2 Stage 1 Dynojet?]

Hi all, recently bought myself a 2002 1200S, only mod is a full exhaust with baffle installed. I've also bought a Piper cross filter to put in.

There was a horrible flat spot so I opened the air screws from 2.5 to 4 turns and that's pretty much removed it, but I had already ordered a Dynojet stage 1 kit before I read that everybody seems to hate them.

So I'm not going to sell the kit as I got it cheap but can someone please advise me what a good setting with it would be? It seems that the mains are all smaller than the stock 100 mikuni jet, so does the needle have a sharper taper that makes it richer at higher openings? (I have 2 stroke needles that require a much smaller main due to thinner needle point).

Also seeing how the kit doesn't come with pilots, would the standard mikuni 15 suffice? I'm guessing the exhaust is what forced me from standard to 4 turns out, would it be able to handle a free flowing filter?