motopsycho87

It seemed to be there but quietly. I put a Lextek exhaust on and suddenly it's really loud. 100% not leaking at headers or spring rattle though. I've watched a few videos on YouTube of people riding the bikes and there's no similar noises. I'm wondering if it's just insane intake grumble?

Ear plugs make it louder!!!

I've also drained the oil, no sparkles, cut open the air filter, no flakes

Another video, the last run at 4k rpm is the loudest

Doesn't happen in neutral, but happens in gear with brake on

Did them after valves, that was my first hope It sounds like a leaky header, but only happens under load, and comes and goes at very specific frequencies???

Hi all, wondering if you can help being the experts n all. Got a b12, 2002, 20,000 miles and I'm getting a a really annoying knocking / rattling noise on acceleration. Initially I thought it was detonation due to fitting the ignitech, but it still happens when using standard CDI. Bike is pretty much standard except stage 3 dynojet, pods and exhaust. The noise isn't there at start or idle, or revving freely. It comes in initially about 2000rpm, then goes, then comes back about 2500-3000rpm, then goes, then comes back between 4-6000rpm albeit quieter, at these revs it sounds more like a grumble than a knocky rattle. It is apparent in all gears, comes and goes quiet to loud to quiet, extremely consistent with revs. It's not there when I pull the clutch in. It seems to get louder the further the throttle is opened, but disappears with clutch. Its really doing my head in, and seemed to get louder when I changed the headers, but I've tightened and checked for leaks and nothing. Please help!!

Just found them from googling 3d ignition map. Had a few runs up the road today. This is so far the most responsive map, I've only been doing up to max revs in 3rd gear and trying to get the revs as close to idle when poodling around. Very smooth, very torquey and so far no nasty noises. Still doesn't behave amazingly well on choke, but comes off choke and idles fine after about 10 seconds. I took a bunch of columns out at higher revs as it created steps where as this creates a nice linear increase

Nah I'm going to change it. Again was looking at turbo maps which are for lower compression motors. Stay tuned for v2

Because I've been looking at spark maps for high compression engines with turbos, also because I'm a fucking idiot still, better safe than sorry. Should have been googling 'naturally aspirated' timing map, And probably ignored this website as it seems so insanely conservative http://www.useasydocs.com/theory/spktable.htm

Ahh, 1 post further back. Stock ignitech TPS map has a huge hump in it around 10-20% throttle. If you just add 5deg to everything it gives a couple points around the mid 50s, hence I didn't like it and changed it

I'm going to turn down the advance at 0-2% throttle. Seems to upset the choke a little bit as advancing too quick

You might want to read my post again... Lol

I've just copied what exists and adjusted based on reasonable guesswork. It's an improvement on the standard unit +5deg

The stock ignitech maps are rubbish. I enabled TPS and it gives you a mental amount of advance between 2 and 10% then goes flat again, adding 5 degrees to this puts you at about 55' !!! It also gives a horrible surge if your coasting at low revs in a high gear. I've studied a ton of maps and used a generator also going from what I know is safe and made one that works pretty well. Dropped down to 30 degrees at full throttle and it absolutely rips with a ton of torque down low. Will post when I get to work in the morning. Anyway, what's this secret I missed? PM me

Would still be interesting to see 750 map, there is so little information on getting a good ignition map out there it seems like it just needs to be ride, adjust, ride, repeat... Without a dyno of course

Hi all, got a blandit 1200 MK2 with stage 3 and just got my ignitech through. Has anyone made a map with 5 degree advance and 3D map for TPS?

Took it out again, same on the flat spot but definitely a bit richer off idle. Going to do the needle another clip leaner and see if it's better or worse. Or should i maybe try doing to a 150 main? Annoying thing is again it only happens when rolling on in a high gear just after cruising, otherwise it goes like hell... Any ideas?

The main issue is transitioning through the mid range slowly when in a high gear, there is a strong hesitation that is only overcome when opening the throttle quickly. Not noticeable in lower gears, bottom and and top end run perfectly

Done 4 changes today Raised 2 clips, way better but now it has a lean spot that nearly clears when warm Tried original needles on bottom clips, too rich at idle Tried original needles at 3rd clip, too lean in the mid So now I've left the dynojet needles in as they were, but out the original springs back in in the hope that maybe the carb was lifting too high too soon and not able to pull enough fuel during roll on, is this thought process correct? Work in the morning so no test ride until tomorrow evening Also, visor flew off my helmet :'( If that doesn't work then the next step will be to drop 1 clip and see if that's the happy medium

The plan is to get it nicely close then take it for a dyno run. I've got some 150 mains also to try. And I'm getting carbs out, rejetted and back within an hour

From what I've done so far Rich - no power but smooth Lean - cuts out, pops and bangs So this is making me think leaner on the needle With regards to the main jet, the range with pods seems to be 150-160 so I just went in the middle for now and it's a great improvement on standard

Morning all! I've got a V12 MK2 with full system and ramair pods with the velocity stacks in. Hopefully the bike is modified enough it's allowed on here I've currently got 27.5 pilot, 1.5 turns, dynojet stage 1 needles at 3rd from bottom, dynojet stage 1 slide springs and 155 mains. The bike runs amazingly when going through the gears, the issue I'm having is that when I'm at medium revs and roll on the throttle the pick up is very weak and slow until I've twisted the the throttle fully. But when running through gears the bike runs lovely and powerful. It almost feels like the slide is refusing to open or maybe at lower positions it is rich? I had the needles at bottom clip before this and the I had the same problem off idle as well. Any suggestions? My next thought is to drop the needles another clip...

Hi all, recently bought myself a 2002 1200S, only mod is a full exhaust with baffle installed. I've also bought a Piper cross filter to put in. There was a horrible flat spot so I opened the air screws from 2.5 to 4 turns and that's pretty much removed it, but I had already ordered a Dynojet stage 1 kit before I read that everybody seems to hate them. So I'm not going to sell the kit as I got it cheap but can someone please advise me what a good setting with it would be? It seems that the mains are all smaller than the stock 100 mikuni jet, so does the needle have a sharper taper that makes it richer at higher openings? (I have 2 stroke needles that require a much smaller main due to thinner needle point). Also seeing how the kit doesn't come with pilots, would the standard mikuni 15 suffice? I'm guessing the exhaust is what forced me from standard to 4 turns out, would it be able to handle a free flowing filter?