ChrisR1

Ahaha good to know. It’s looking that way.

Timing is a fair question but it was actually checked when the mechanic got it running for me (it was a tooth out). So this should be OK, and I can’t see how it would have jumped again but will get it looked at again to be sure. Sadly no access to another set of carbs so maybe just need to pull the trigger on flat slides.

So I have finished fully restoring a 91 750 and it has some carb issues leaving me not sure where to go. I gave it to a mechanic who knows his way around old bikes to get it running before I got it on historic rego. He did but advised the carbs are not in great condition (he had to pull them apart to get it running and seems it took a lot of fiddling - note engine has been fully rebuilt). Anyway it ran OK for a while - a bit sketchy at low rpm but above that great. Today I go to start it and after a lot of coaxing it started. I turned it off, got ready to ride and then it just won’t start. Despite lots of cranking, playing with choke it just won’t go - but did provide some very loud bangs out the exhaust a few seconds after ceasing to crank it… this is a new one to me. I think the carbs may be beyond saving (and powerjet ones seem non-existent 2nd hand) so am thinking about a set of Mikuni Flatslides. Can anyone provide any experience with them? Are they OK for a street bike with OEM exhaust? Hard to set up? Which size? Or would a set of OEM carbs off another model be a better idea and if so which ones? I really want this bike done but it’s starting to do my head in! Just want a solution.

So thanks to some online parts sites and associated pictures looks like AJO and AJD are the common front wheel codes and from at least 89-93 both the 750 and 1100 have same part number of 54111-17C10. For the rear most years are BJL and part number 64111-07D00 but this changes around 93 to BJV and part becomes 64111-07D10. The BJV wheel brings with it a different brake carrier bracket and sprocket carrier but otherwise looks the same. So does anyone know if this later wheel can be used in place of the earlier BJL one?

Does anyone have a list of 3 letter codes on the Asahi Tec wheels and what bikes they fitted? I’m trying to source an original pair of wheels for my 91 GSXR750M resto (it had been fitted with Bandit wheels) and the factory wheels are code AJD on the front and BJL on the rear. I’ve found a pair that look right and which the seller says were on a 94 1100 race bike so can’t be sure they are original fitment, but the codes are AJO and BJV. Anyone know if they’ll fit the 91 750?

Ahhh OK. That complicates things then...

OK I think autocorrect got that last part! It should say 'not sure why the Bandit one can't be dropped in with the Slingshot arm?'

Again thanks. Although on the rear brake torque arm - if you can't use the Slingshot one what do you do? I can see that the stock one I have has the brass bush, but the parts diagram for the Bandit shows it too uses a torque arm to the rear caliper. So not sure why the Bandit one can't be dropped in with the say what now!? arm?

Thanks for taking the time to share this. That last image is the standard L model set of sprocket side spacer, disc spacer and sprocket carrier?? From the info all you guys have kindly shared I'm pretty much certain I have Bandit wheels fitted. The front seems fine as looks to be a bolt-in fitment with the Slingshot speedo drive on the LHS and RHS axle spacer (although from what I can tell the bandit discs are 19.5mm offset vs GSXR 22.5mm so that makes fitting the original slotted discs an issue....). The rear seems to be a mix and match but I think I've got it worked out to the point that all I need is the Bandit rear caliper hanger and it should all pretty much be sorted! Or as noted just find original wheels to get me past this shit and keep it nice and original as I want anyway! Thanks again.

This is great! Thanks. Given the rear I have has the bearing seal this confirms to me that it is a Bandit wheel and that the spacer in the first image at the start of the thread I posted is the 'top hat' type you are referring to that fits inside the bearing seal. The first image in my second post would be the Sider slingshot one that has a mushroom head to cover the bearing. I suspect someone has mixed and matched just to get the wheels in (and given how it was when I bought it I have no idea if it was ever ridden like this - maybe it was just done to allow the chassis to be rolled around!) With the narrow top hat spacer in place the main issue now is that the clearance on the disc side is too great - almost certainly because the caliper hanger is the say what now!? one and is too narrow. Looks like I need to get a bandit caliper hanger. Or find an original swept design wheel set and get rid of these ones completely!!

Thanks for this. Can you tell me what year model Bandit it came from? And did you use the GSXR sprocket carrier? Assume the bandit caliper hanger is needed to get the disc spacing in the caliper correct?

I think you may be right here so I am trying to understand what other things need to be accounted for in a bandit wheel swap. Do you have any idea of what haas t be done to make the swap as I can't find much in the way of info on it?

Sorry I didn't see your response earlier! If you are able to provide me a couple of images from your L of the left side spacer/clearance and right side spacers, brake caliper bracket I'd be really appreciative!

It is something I had considered but with engine out I can't check alignment along chain to front sprocket right now. I know from other comments that their is not typically a lot of clearance as stock - and given the other components (sprocket drum, RHS space and caliper hanger) all seem to be correct for the model then if I get the spacing on the LHS right I am hoping all will be good!

Thanks for that insight - I'll check and see if that's possible. The other rear wheel components (sprocket carrier drum, RHS spacer, caliper hanger) are all exactly as per the M parts manual and images so all looks right in the department. Will check to see what part numbers are used with the Bandit wheels.

Thanks for the welcome . Will do so for sure.

Hey colinworth79 thanks for replying. Per my other reply it isn't the same - I have no idea where it is from originally!

Thanks for that - I hadn't considered that the sprocket bolts could be longer than standard. I'll grab a new set and check them out against what is fitted. Cheers. On the top picture this is not the RHS spacer that sits between the bearing and brake caliper bracket. This spacer has a larger mushroom head that covers the whole bearing and has a pressed metal piece rather than being from a single piece of alloy - per attached images. I have no idea what the spacer in that first image is or where it came from! Best guess is some previous owner stuck it in the LHS to get the clearance they needed.

OK guys have an odd issue I need help with as has me stumped. I am fully rebuilding a 91 GSXR750M I picked up as a rolling chassis and in various pieces. During the rebuild I realised the left hand rear wheel spacer was not per the parts diagram (no idea what it is from), and so I got the original one and fitted it. Thing is that has resulted in the sprocket nuts just hitting the swingarm as the wheel rotates (which I guess is why someone had put the wrong one in there before - to get the clearance). Thing is I can't work out why? The right hand side spacer and rear brake bracket are correct. I thought maybe for some reason the sprocket carrier bearing well had been made deeper due to wear by a seized bearing (as the seat shows some scarring), moving the bearing - and so spacer - closer to the wheel centre, but measuring a good one shows it is fine. Anyone have any idea?? I am thinking of just getting a LHS spacer made up to match the OEM one but with an additional 5mm width to provide the clearance. Seems easiest as long as it doesn't mess with the front sprocket alignment too much Pictures of what was fitted (the flared head)the OEM spacer and clearance with the OEM spacer fitted as attached.