RickLee
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Posts posted by RickLee
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So I put the candy apple red on there and I think it helps a lot. Ready for coats of clear now. Then some stickers that don’t say McDonalds. Then I ll store it away and see to the bike. Could take all summer or longer.
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That’s pretty darn nice! I threw some paint on the tank and I liked the look until the wife said it looked like a McDonalds advertisement. So I’m going to spray some candy over the red and yellow so as to quiet the Big Mac. The bike in the pic is the look I was going for.
On 6/7/2022 at 3:49 PM, TonyGee said:yeah the large tank is hard to find and expensive when you do
but their is some nice bikes with the smaller tank.
like this one.
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I’m considering putting only 1 inch foam on the seat to make it a lower profile and it will help to make the tank look bigger
lol
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39 minutes ago, TonyGee said:
its a shame they put the smaller tank on some GS/GSX bikes, i think it changes the look. could you find the larger tank over their ?
I’m hunting but any tank that isn’t a scrap heap is pretty pricey. Raising this one up in the back helps with the look a bit. But yeah your right . This tank is clean inside and does not have one dent in it…. Amazing!
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And I’ve been riding last years bike because the weather is fantastic!
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So far I’ve added new handlebars, a grab rail, a spoked front wheel, some taillights, a plastic seat pan from a Suzuki Bandit, a new ignition switch, I lowered the front an inch, and I found an old glass headlight that I need to mount yet. Started stripping the 3 layers of paint off the tank and I raised the ass end of the tank 3/4 of an inch because I don’t like the way it slopes down to the seat front. I want it level. Had to unstick the brake lever and polish and grease it. And once again I took 5 or 6 inches off the back of the frame. Compression is a little light in one cylinder and I need a new clutch and clutch bearing and spacer.
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Hey Guys! You may remember me from last summer when I was ditching all of the GS1100 plastics . Well I got started on the old bike this week! Here’s some pics before and after, and my plans for this big old bike!
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On 10/12/2017 at 11:09 PM, vizman said:
i don't think any usd forks are a direct fit, i'm pretty sure you're going to have to do some modifying.
have a read through the projects section (you layzee bear) people such as FBOAB,Foz,etc have/has/had modified blandits with usd fronts.
also RTFR.
also stop drinking your own piss.
Hahahahahahah..... Is this THE Bear Grills? Sorry to resurrect an Old thread but this gave me a good laugh,
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Me again... I was inspecting my old air box and everything within it and realized that the foam gasket that the actual air filter sits on was deteriorated beyond bad. This original foam gasket seals the metal air filter framework to the bottom of the plastic air box. When these things deteriorate they fill the air box with tiny (and not so tiny) tar-like particles that would certainly get sucked into the carbs, making all of my hard work cleaning and rebuilding the carbs useless. I removed the tarry gasket, (it literally crumbled when I touched it) and thoroughly blew out lots and lots of debris, and am now thinking of ways to replace it. One being double sided gorilla glue tape because it needs an airtight seal.
seriously this could potentially ruin your carbs. Jam a slide, block a jet. Whatever.
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I hate to keep stating obvious things but when I removed the diaphragm caps the screws were mighty frozen, I had to hammer on them a bit with impact screwdriver and other various instruments of torture. Well just imagine my surprise when I realized that one of the caps suffered a hairline crack after a half hour of abuse in its proximity. Are your caps solid? Might be worth looking into. I’m looking for a new shiny set at the moment.
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Satan....Spark plug threads are good???
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I poured some carb cleaner into the inlet hose that had blockage (0n water bottle in pic). Let it sit for 20 minutes and blew through the hose . Suddenly it blew gunk through the holes where the two screwdrivers are. It’s unblocked now ...I will proceed to spray clean and rebuild
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3 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
I don't like the idea of a screen on the fuel inlets - far too easy to cause a blockage IMO Never seen a screen on any carbs i've had apart - i'd rather see some crap in the bottom of the float bowl than blocking the fuel inlet - just my personal opinion though! A decent external fuel filter before the carbs is far more useful and user friendly!
Yes, I don’t like the screens, I’m in agreement. Here is the old seat. It had a screen on it too. Looks pretty old and it seems like not only would it clog, but also impede the flow of fuel as well. I’m not trying to hijack satans thread, I’m thinking maybe I can help us both by going over these things. This is my first 4 carb rebuild and it’s pretty difficult. I’m going to ditch the screens and I always run an inline filter. But if this rebuild does not work I’ll buy the new mikunis for 700 bucks. I’m not doing this twice. Hey Satan, try blowing through the hoses with the carbs off and see if you get resistance in one of them. Gas tastes nasty but I did it and have found one blocked.
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The reason I ask Satan Sam is because I wonder if you installed a needle and seat like this with nothing holding the needle in place ( in its seat ). Or is that how it’s done with the rebuild kits? I notice also that this seat has a screen filter apparently taped onto the underside as opposed to the plastic filter in the originals seat. Could be we just bought kits that don’t or wont work.
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I bought a rebuild kit for my gs1000 carbs (BS type) and the needle and seat is confusing me. The old needle was held into the seat with a tiny tiny spring. The New needle appears to not have any way to keep it seated in the seat. Are they supposed to just hang down on the float tang until the bowls fill and push them up into the seat? Or is there a part in my kit that holds it in???
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9 minutes ago, RickLee said:
When fitting the air box to the carbs sometimes one of the intake tubes (usually an inner one) does not connect, or wrap its lips around the carb. And sucks a ton of unwanted air.
That said, my GS1000 is having miserable carb problems and certainly need rebuilding .... but judging from the nightmares many on this forum have gone through, I think I’m going to cash in some doges and spend the 750.00 on a new set of mikunis.
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On 6/10/2021 at 1:03 AM, SATANSAM said:
Mornin' amigos!
Long time no speak...I've started with the suzi again, from the beginning, like a retarded (like always).
As I've got 3 sets of carbs, all clean 100%., with UC, carb cleaner and compressed air. All diaphragms perfect, gaskets too. Bech sync and mounted with air box and intake manifolds perfectly sealed...All jets correct size, choke working correctly...
Valve clearence correct, compression 160 each so correct.
I'm getting a set of carbs in with new throttle shaft viton rings and correct butterfly positions, now Vitons are the only part I can think about....Air lieak like most of you say. Bike synced, fuel screws 2,5 turns out (and more!), idle at about 2000rpm, I close the air filtet intake with my fingers and of course it loweres down...So excess of air...
Anyway, if anybody has a last tip...I might be near success or storing the bike...This bike uses a CDI so I don't think it can be anything to do with advanced timing (I've tried 3 CDIs already!).
Cheerz!
When fitting the air box to the carbs sometimes one of the intake tubes (usually an inner one) does not connect, or wrap its lips around the carb. And sucks a ton of unwanted air.
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Brakes are finished. Appear to be working fine as it sits. Got the springs at my “local” Suzuki Dealer 6.00 x 2. Only had to drive 60 miles there and 60 miles back with 2 pieces of sprung wire in my pocket. Took a look at the new Suzuki’s in their showroom... very nice.
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So while I’m waiting for parts I started on painting the side covers. I’m going with the blue and white with black pinstripes and red Logos. Here’s my tank... I’m going to get this dent out the best I can, fill with resin . And use stickers probably instead of the stock Logos emblems. Quite a few coats of clear hides the decal edges. I lightly mist the first two coats so as not to raise or degrade the decals.
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On 9/24/2020 at 8:38 AM, Apples said:
My last bike worked well with the vacuum tap too. It worked well. This fuel system is just getting to me. It hasn't helped that my shop hand turns 5 this week and has been a little distracting as I've been working. With the few minutes I messed with it last night I couldn't get the prime position to work. I see that you have to turn it with a screwdriver a quarter turn and then turn it over to hold the valve open. I'll try again tonight and hopefully my shop hand is busy doing something else.
I remember those days . My kids bugged me so much I started working my projects at night. But looking back I’m glad I was able to spend the day doting over them.
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Nearest Suzuki dealer is 50 miles away From me, but I’m making a list and calling them. If they have what I’m looking for I’ll drive to get it. I make the trip once a month anyway.
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11 hours ago, Poldark said:
Joke was on the website's misspelling of caliper as "cariper". Sorry, I was a bit slow on that one.
it made me raff a rot!
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Well Reinhard that was my question . I was wondering if a straight feed delivers the same performance as the original vacuum system that is originally intended to be used. if there is no difference then I will surely go to a straight feed just to have a bit less to bother with. Yours works well? If so, I’m sold! Is it harder to prime? Will I wear out my starter motor getting startup fuel into the carbs?
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The interchangeability will be a big plus... this is good knowledge. Thanks.
1981 GS1100 project from last year!
in Air Cooled
Posted · Edited by Captain Chaos
half of the pic deleted. It's a fucking h*nda
Can anyone identify these forks? And what bolt on options have some of you used as far as newer fork sets go? I’d like an upgrade. Any gsx forks that will fit without making spacers? Thanks!