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Apples

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Posts posted by Apples

  1. 7 hours ago, Isleoman said:

    Most of the online VIN decoders are looking for 17 characters/digits.  The GS850 on your head stock must have another translation that looks something like this   JS1GS71G4B2    the serial number 101332 would follow to complete the 17 digits.   Looks like an 81.   Google search Suzuki Motorcycle Vin Decoders. There is usually a fee involved.  Most of the GS850G use the designation I posted.  See also https://www.vincheckup.com/motorcycles/suzuki  

    The sticker on the head stock is totally unreadable and the guy I got this from is unsure of the year. He is going to apply for the lost title sometime soon (I hope). Is there anywhere else on the bike that might have a VIN? I looked at my 78 GS1000 and didn’t see anywhere else other than the sticker or the stamp on the head stock. 

  2. So I’ve added a GS850 to my collection. Another find, this time in someone’s yard. It has sat since 2014, or at least that’s the last time it had a plate. Anyway, trying to figure out what year it is. Attached are a few pictures along with the VIN. Can someone explain how to decode the VIN so I can know how they work? I know how the 17 digit ones work, just unsure on this one. VIN is GS850-101332 

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  3. 41 minutes ago, busa1300 said:

    Looks like it was stored in a nice place, that should have hopefully saved a lot of work.

    Hope the tank is in good shape....78 gas tanks are crazy money these days.

    That's where it was moved to a month before I got it.  It was stored in a garage at least.  It has an 80-81 tank on it and some other odd parts it seems like.  My students and I are tearing into it now and seeing what we can do.  It does kind of run but not well.  Going to be a fun project.  

    • Like 2
  4. 1 hour ago, RickLee said:

    I remember those days .  My kids bugged me so much I started working my projects at night. But looking back I’m glad I was able to spend the day doting over them.

    Normally both of my shop hands are out helping me with something.  She was just extra talkative and made it hard to concentrate that day.  She likes taking all of my pictures and videos of my work though so its always cool to look though my phone of what new pictures I have.  Helps me document my builds too.  

  5. 34 minutes ago, RickLee said:

    Well Reinhard that was my question . I was wondering if a straight feed delivers the same performance as the original vacuum system that is originally intended to be used. if there is no difference then I will surely go to a straight feed just to have a bit less to bother with.  Yours works well?   If so, I’m sold!  Is it harder to prime?  Will I wear out my starter motor getting startup fuel into the carbs? 

    I would guess there wouldn't be a difference as long as the vacuum line is plugged off.  So far I have gotten mine to start with a straight fed line but it isn't running well enough to see if there is a major difference yet.  The advantage I see with the vacuum is that it shuts the fuel off when the engine is off. Outside of that, I couldn't imagine there would be a difference in performance.  

  6. On 10/3/2020 at 4:05 PM, RickLee said:

    The cheap Eblag petcock have a diaphragm that is made of much much thinner rubber sheet than the original equipment. The corners of this cheap diaphragm where the 4 screws go.... the screw holes are so close to the edge of the corner that they tear right out under the vacuum of any bike larger than a 650. I got the guy who sold me one to apply a refund.  
     

    Im not so sure a GS 750-1000 can run optimally with a straight feed without the vacuum actuated diaphragm. I could be wrong, but I’m going to step up and find the OEM parts.  
     

    like a lot on this thread I’m dealing with a bike that had been sitting for god knows how long.  I know it starts and sounds good cuz I was able to do that before the diaphragm popped. I just can’t ride it yet due to dangerous issues like brake restoration, cracked tires, dirty gas tank, loose crap and many other incidentals. 
     

    if anyone ever finds a real good replacement petcock that works vacuum Wise like the original for a GS1000 please direct me there. Otherwise original Suzuki rebuild kit and petcock filter replacement ( mine is broken ) ...  Thanks and good luck with these old monsters. They are fun but lots of issues being42 years old and sitting.

    So, I took a gas tank off of an old riding lawnmower and fed it directly into the carbs that way.  I can get it to run with the engine at full choke right now, but it does run, probably the first time in 20 years.  So far, straight fed is working.  Ill probably just rebuild mine but for right now the lawnmower tank is working.  

  7. 9 hours ago, RickLee said:

    When you get a load of the price of NEW calipers.... wow.  Are there any reasonably priced aftermarket calipers for 1980 GS1000?

    Not that I have seen. These are getting rebuilt. I can buy four calipers for my F 350 for the price of a front caliper on this bike.

  8. 22 minutes ago, Captain Chaos said:

    This^^^
    once i witnessed someone trying to stop the pistons with his fingers. 
    The pistons won. 

    I’m glad that in my auto classes that I teach that you just replace calipers and not rebuild them. I kept a good core as an example that the piston just slides out by hand now to show the students. 

  9. 10 hours ago, RickLee said:

    Rear brake pedal pivot is usually rusted so tight you need a sledgehammer and a bunch of wd40 to pop it out.  Clean it, fine sand and polish it. Same goes for the tube it slides into. Use a long lasting grease before you reinstall.  I’m considering drilling a hole and putting a zirk  fitting into mine.  Took a while to fix this.  The rear master. Cylinder is a fairly easy rebuild but the caliper seals and boots are quite difficult.  I know from experience.  To remove the frozen pistons use compressed air hose with a rubber tip. Be sure to place a piece of wood under the piston or it will pop out like a bullet into your caliper.

    Awesome. Thanks for the advice. First time I took a caliper apart I launched a piston across the shop. 

  10. 15 hours ago, Poldark said:

    50 states, 50 different inspection standards ranging from fairly stringent to none at all.  Even in states without a vehicle inspection program, the vast majority of traffic collisions are caused by operator error and not faulty equipment.

    I’m in a no inspection area. Kind of nice really. If I go 30 miles east, all vehicles are inspected once a year. 

  11. 1 hour ago, RGSX said:

    Here all I need was to produce the sale invoice from previous owner. If it was stolen it'll come back when they do a search history.

    Water bottle is considerably less expensive than a MotionPro bottle (y). You now know it starts and it doesn't when you hook up the tank there's a problem with the tap or line leak. My petcock was okay for vacuum but it leaked, I found another at a local salvage shop. You could install a Pingel petcock, just don't forget to turn it off.

    Illinois is terrible when it comes to not having the original title so hopefully the photocopy will help some. I don’t have a problem with forgetting to turn them off, just forgetting to turn them on usually. 

  12. 1 hour ago, RGSX said:

    if it turns over you can usually get it to run, it just may not run well:D

    My efe came with two broken plugs rusted/fused into the head. $1,200 later I had rebuilt head and it started up on the first attempt...well it did once I learned unlike my other bikes I needed to pull in the clutch firstxD.  Normally $1,200 may have been too much and I should've looked for a running bike but I only paid $1 to make transfer of ownership legal.

    This bike was given to me from my brothers father in law. It got left in a rental property and all i have is a photocopy of the title. Still not sure how to make it legal but I’ll figure it out. Last time it had tags was 1998 so I’m guessing that’s the last time it ran. I got it to start but not through the tank... I don’t know if I don’t have enough vacuum to open the tap or what. So I improvised. Also, electrical tape does not hold up to gas well. 

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  13. My last bike worked well with the vacuum tap too.  It worked well.  This fuel system is just getting to me.  It hasn't helped that my shop hand turns 5 this week and has been a little distracting as I've been working.  With the few minutes I messed with it last night I couldn't get the prime position to work.  I see that you have to turn it with a screwdriver a quarter turn and then turn it over to hold the valve open.  I'll try again tonight and hopefully my shop hand is busy doing something else.  

  14. 4 hours ago, gs7_11 said:

    You have the later tank with 50mm hole spacing, so none of the 44mm taps with levers will fit unfortunately.

    The 50mm tap has a screwdriver slot with 'prime' and 'on' positions only, no off or reserve.

    Yeah, it looks like its from a 1980-82ish bike and not the original tank for this bike.  Whoever had this bike before me really tried hard to get it going without knowing what they were doing.  Whoever designed a petcock without an off position is an idiot.  I love it when gas slowly leaks into the carbs when the bike sits.  I think I figured out the prime position finally but it doesn't seem to draw enough vacuum to open the petcock up.  

  15. I think I figured it out. Now what I really want is one that isn’t vacuum only and has an actual shut off on it. It looks like there is a key or something for this, but no matter how much I spin or push it, it doesn’t seem to do anything. 

  16. So, I have this 1978 GS1000 that I need a new petcock on. Problem is, none of them look like what I have. I ordered one that said it fits, but it doesn’t. I’m guessing I have a different tank? Any ideas on which petcock to get? 

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  17. 2 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

    unlikely if they live in 'merica where thinking like that is common - vehicle inspection there seems to consist of making sure its still parked outside, which without brakes, could be doubtful LOL!

    It can be pretty amazing what I see at times and what people say when I suggest a repair. Usually with brakes and really bad tires I let them know they are less than the legal limit and tell them it has to be towed from the shop if it’s not repaired. I can’t let something like that leave knowing it’s on the road after being in my shop. 

  18. 4 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

    They all work exactly the same - cars / bikes / trucks only difference is what limb activates them and no servo assistance on bikes! Only word of caution - if you are not confident of an acceptable outcome - get someone who is! Brakes really are 'life & death' type devices! 

    Use Alphasports for part diagrams and parts prices / availability, Some of the images can be a little poor but they are from original Suzuki parts microfiche's so it's understandable!

    I figured they would be about the same but just look a little different. I’m pretty sure and confident on my ability to rebuild them and they will be extensively tested before the bike actually hits the road. I lost brakes once on my first car the day after I bought it and never want that to happen again. It drives me nuts when people want to argue with me when I tell them they need brakes on their car and they think they don’t. 

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