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Thank you for your advice. I will continue looking for the writeups in the GSR. From the couple of threads I saw, it says stick with the 550 cams. First things first, I need to get this thing running, and will go from there. I tried to pull the wire out of the new coil, and it will not budge. The heat shrink moved away, but that wire is solidly in there... I saw no way to disconnect the coil either. Thoughts?

So does that take a machine shop to bore the cylinder? I will have to look this up once I get to my computer. Could you do the 1mm over piston? I’m looking for something I can do in the garage. Thanks for sharing this site

So is there a way to verify whether they are removable, without royally screwing the pooch and bricking the coil? The whole wire is covered in color matched heat shrink, so I take it to be OEM

The more I am digging into the 1980 GS 550L, the more I am convinced that it was a parts bike. It was missing the coil on the left, which I believe run cylinders 2 and 3. I purchased this coil from Eblag, but it appears to have the same plug as the one on the right. The only open plug (the length fits the needed amount for the left coil pack) has two male prongs unfortunately. The coil pack on the right has the same plug and is taking the only female plug with matching wire colors as the new coil pack I just got. I have attached the Eblag listing as well as photos (for future reference when the ad gets taken down). My question is, will this coil pack work? Can I just swap the plug and solder on a new one? It says it is for a 1980 GS 550L and the part numbers match, besides the plug. The white and orange plug has a male end, so it sounds like I will be cutting off the plug and putting in some butt connectors. I turned removed all of the spark plugs and put a little oil in each cylinder before turning over the engine last night. Someone put what I had assumed was ATF in cylinder 2, but it is more likely agricultural/heating diesel. It was very red in color and smelled more like differential fluid. That would make sense, given that I got it from a farmer. It wouldn’t turn over, so I gave it hell. Once it turned over with a loud 'glug', it splattered the red diesel across the garage and landed on the wife’s car. So then I put about 1/2 can of wd40 and carb and choke cleaner in all of the cylinders and slowly rotated the engine for a few minutes. It’s turning much more easily now. Should I expect to pull the engine, as it seems to have worked itself out? Or could it just have been too full with all of the fluid? On a side note, I do not like the orange wiring on the new coil. Does that just pull out like the Kawasaki? I moved the rubber boot that holds it to the coil, and it looks like it is solidly in there. Also, does anyone have a write-up for how to do the 650 head swap? I just saw that there is a junk yard a couple of hours away, and two people live in my area in this group. Someone bought a new engine for $50, so if that is the case, then I can get the parts easily. Is that pretty easy to do? Thank you in advance. https://www.Eblag.com/itm/SUZUKI-GS550-IGNITION-COIL-330TR12-TOIC18/202493071743?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

That would make complete sense with the frame laying around, they do that with cars all of the time. So I was taking off the airbox, just to see how many mice were living in the filter area, and to my amazement, it was 100% clean inside with an old style but brand new k&n filter. The sparkplugs are brand new as well. That was quite the shock. I live in Iowa. I am sure that we can definitely work out some deals! I ONLY do paypal business to business though. I collect WW2 items, so there are a lot of scammers in that world.

I’ve been lurking for a little while, and am a member of the GS550 Facebook group. I’ve recently picked up what I originally thought was a 550e, but the seat is from a 550L. This hasn’t ran in God knows how long, and was covered in cow manure (kept in a barn, of course). The group couldn’t identify the model on the neck, because it doesn’t line up with the cheat sheet. I have read that not all parts are swappable, and the E model was more powerful/desirable. Here’s some photos, and I appreciate the help.