HWB
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Posts posted by HWB
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can i bother anyone to measure up their fcr39s for me ? lenghtwise only needed,
i was running rs38's on a 1127 with D-ot heads, clearance was tight but i managed to squeeze them after a little bit of tank modding. i wonder if the fcr's will fit before purchasing.
measurements will need to be from intake spigots to the very top of the carb and also from top to bottom of carb to check alternator clearance.
appreciate any help and effort.
cheers
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7 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
No heat and no oil as I remember! If you have the tip protruding, it may help to file a flat on it to give your screwdriver needle point more to 'aim' at. A block of wood opposite the screwdriver in the bore will give something to lever against without damage to the alloy. Its usually just brute force and ignorance that works in the end . . . . . . . . or give up and replace
38 flat
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5 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
No heat and no oil as I remember! If you have the tip protruding, it may help to file a flat on it to give your screwdriver needle point more to 'aim' at. A block of wood opposite the screwdriver in the bore will give something to lever against without damage to the alloy. Its usually just brute force and ignorance that works in the end . . . . . . . . or give up and replace the body!
Been going at it all day again without any luck. Any idea where i can buy a body for it ?
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3 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Good luck - it took me weeks of on /off trying to do one in a set of RS's. Generally caused by screwing the screw down closed too much, it jams and just twists off! I used a needle pointed, sharpened screwdriver with tip bent at 90 degrees and work from carb bore.
The thing is these screws are so smooth when turning them sometimes you just cant feel when theyve been seated !
I will try again tomorrow, any tips on how you managed to get it out ? Its really frustrating and i fear ill have to scrap the whole thing. Did you use heat ? Oil ? Any tips seriously mate will take any advice right about now
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3 hours ago, TonyGee said:
are you trying to push the broken tip down where the mixture screw goes ? if you are your going the wrong way !!!!! push it from the bore of the carb up and out of the mixture screw hole. it'll never come through the tiny hole in the carb mouth.
No mate the needle tip is tapered and will only come off from the bore out towards the bowl so actually im trying to take it out the way its supposed to come out in the first place but it just wont budge !
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Ita stuck in the hole im trying to push it down it just wont budge, any ideas how to push it down maybe im doing it wrong
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Im trying its not working
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Start of season maintenance and checkup and this happened. Looks like water caused it to be jammed. Maybe from washing ? Anyways how can i remove the tip now wiyhout messing up the bodies
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Manual for the 38 flatties says std screw setting is 1/8 1/2 maximum. I just want to confirm this. If its the case then its wayyyyyyy different than my cvs which are 2 1/2 turns. I made the mistake of not counting how many turns they were before messing with them
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Ok now im confused..
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Understood. So just to be clear the lower the number the more power up top and vise versa ?
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Any same cam comparisons ? Lets say stock 1100 cams at 105 vs at 110 and so on.
What changes would happen if i go say from 105 to 107 or to 103
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Im curious to know, ive set my cams at 105°/105° the bike is very torquy, real nice but i feel its a very race oriented setup. What other setups are they? What are you guys running as for degrees. Also is going down in degree number torquier at the bottom end and vise versa or how does it go ?
Any magic number ?
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Pingel make top notch products check their website or get oem u can also try Eblag
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Ok so i found out whats causing the vibration and its like Dezza said. It was the carbs touching the tank. Oddly enough the throttle cables clear, the fuel tap clears and the fuel hoses clear, the velocity stacks are about 1mm or 1.5mm away from the frame. When the bike is shut off and im inspecting i cant fing anything because nothing is touching. When i turn on, the small vibration from the carbs make the velocity stacks hit the fram just enough to mess with my mental health for a month.
Also i removed the stacks and the vibrations are still there, turns out the fuel hose clamp also does the same thing only when turned on. What a rollercoaster. Just wanted to give that info out incase someone needs it.
In the process of finding the cause of the vibration i removed the valve covers and inspecting clearances and bolt torques. So that was a win at least.
Cheers all and have a gd weekend.
DEZZA cheers mate
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5
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I have a set of wiseco 81mm laying around i know you said wossner but maybe ?
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I modified the tank so everything fits, it wasnt that way but everything is now ok, i will check again tho, velocity stacks are way way too close to the frame, maybe with engine on its touching ? Will check thanks
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Ok so did a compression test and all is well, readings are 180 psi for all 4 cylinders except cyl 4 185 psi so all good. Sparks look good too!
Ill be taking the cover off soon to check cam sprockets as george said but i highly doubt the have moved since when i built the engine and did a comp test i also had 180 all over except cyl 4 185 so its exactly how it was. Changine cam timing will change comp readings, so thats not it probably. Last thing would be valve clearances. That would conclude that its not an engine thing.
Carbs are balanced but lets just argue imbalanced carbs might cause it ?
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4 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Well, if you are running guestimated fueling over 4k kms and excessive fuel has worn the rings to allow excessive rock, then yes the pistons could be kissing the valves but I still don't see vibration - noise yes but not vibes. Something is broken / out of balance to cause those sort of vibes. Is this suddenly or long term?
No mate, fueling at idle is at 14.7 afr measured with an AEM afr guage, at full throttle it goes about 12. So mostly perfect for a carbureted bike.
Vibration is strong from idle at standstill till about3,4k goes away comes back a bit at the top.
Guessing loose valve clearances ? Crank slapping the tappet ?
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27 minutes ago, george 1100 said:
This
I did not. Stupid i know, but the engine turned over by hand smoothly so i took the go.
Are ylu suggesting the pistons kissing the valves ? Wouldnt that have broken the engine by now ? It has 4k kms on it already
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3 hours ago, bluedog59 said:
Lightweight bar ends ? The stock ones are that weight for a reason.
Put the standard ones back on and go for a ride. At the least it will show if they are (not) the cause of some or all of the problem.
Been on the bike way before the build, didnt have that problem before so its not that
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Engine is shot mate
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1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
New grips / bar ends? - usually good for hand felt vibes, but yours sounds more serious if affecting vision ! Has it been dyno'd or is it guestimated tuning?
Not dynoed yet
keihin fcr 39 measurements
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Appreciate it bluedog !!