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Naim

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Posts posted by Naim

    Idle fluctuation after cam swap Zuma 1200

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted

    Is it possible that after cam swap I'm observing erratic idle? Approx. +/- 150 rpm.

    List of things done already:

    - 4⁰ ignition advancer 

    - Mikuni RS36 flats + 4xAPE filters 

    - GSXR 750 Cams 

    - Pingel fuel tap

     

    Carbs are brand new and synched.  I can't tell if idle issue started after synch or cam swap coz both had been carried simultaneously.

     

     

    Oil temperature

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted

    Thanks a lot guys! I was a bit concerned after changing clutch pads that high temperature was causing it to slip but most probably it was crappy EBC pads. I got the OEM set now and it seems to be a lot better :-)

    Oil temperature

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted

    Anyone can tell me what's the safe operating oil temperature?

    Readings on my 1200 Zuma as follows:

    - 90-95 dgrs celsius when very delicate with throttle.

    - 115 dgrs  when I push it hard (today outside was around 12 dgrs

    - 110 dgrs when I let it idle for around 20-30min. 12 dgrs outside also

    Do you think that these values are within standard readings?

    GSX1200 Zuma clutch and temperature problem

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:

    Your oil temp sounds way to high for 'moderate' use. Check cooler for blocked fins and if it's not an OEM one then its possibly too small / undersized!

    The cooler is original, it looks fine to me. I was considering a HEL performance cooler but still can't figure out the reason for such temp. values.

    GSX1200 Zuma clutch and temperature problem

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted · Edited by Naim

    3 hours ago, zedhead said:

    Get rid of the EBC plates and fit genuine Suzuki ones. Aftermarket plates are notoriously bad in these motors.

    Its quite wierd coz I hadn't even reached 200 km on these pads...

    I'm also thinking if the temperature rise might be caused by slipping clutch?

    GSX1200 Zuma clutch and temperature problem

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted

    I have a never ending story with my Zuma.

    This time I cannot figure out issue with clutch.

    I did a overall maintenance on pump and piston i.e. sealants, springs etc. I also changed a brand new EBC plates and clutch pads.

    When cold everything seems to be ok, afterwards the clutch starts to slip when temperature rises. At first I observed that during gear change with clutch, now I can't even accelerate coz it slips constantly on higher rpms.

    Another thing is the oil temperature for e.g. today we had around 20-25 dgr cent. outside. The oil temperature oscillated between 110-115 dgr.cent. when ridding moderately. 

     

     

    Inazuma mods

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted · Edited by Naim

    On 6/27/2020 at 2:26 AM, rdubandit said:

    Banoffee has good suggestions.  Pingel will fit:

    IMG_0716_zpska4czk6n.jpeg

    I was just a bit concerned about the Pingel adapter with paper seal instead of rubber as in OEM cock.

     

    BTW do u remember which model and adapter type is for your Inazuma. Unfortunately the application chart doesn't include this model.

    Inazuma mods

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted

    Hi guys,

    Finally I managed to fit my RS36 Mikuni's on my Inazuma 1200. I'm still facing some issues, hope for assistance from those more experienced than me:-)

    1. At high speed/rpms the fuel feed seems to be a problem, Is this possibile that the fuel cock has unsufficent flow? If so, can anyone recommend a fuel valve that can be used instead of factory one?

    2. Another issue is the clutch, I observed that it was slipping from time to time especially when changing gears on high rpms. I decided to change the whole set for EBC pads recommended for sport use. Unfortunately the problem still exists, after using new pads. When changing gears without clutch it doesn't slip. May this be a problem with hydraulic clutch cylinder?

    3. Last thing is the oil temperature. I bought one of these termometers that you put intead of oil cap on clutch cover. What are the reasonable temperature values for these engines. I had around 120 centigrade at top, seems a but too high?

    Cheers

    Camshafts swap Gsxr1100 to GSX1200

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted

    3 hours ago, Oilyspanner said:

    Found your other post Naim - those 750 cams would work pretty well - other cams that would work well are the gsx1100f (big teapot), these give good peak and spread of torque. Those 40mm bst carbs wouldn't be ideal, without work you'll lose lower range power and gain a little at the top - you would need to blend the ports to suit the big carbs and rubber inlet manifolds, else you'll lose more power - 36mm carbs would be more suitable unless you tune the engine - raised compression, flowed head, big bore etc even then the 36mm carbs are good for a road engine.

    Thanks mate, I'm waiting for delivery, I'll let you all know how it works.

    For a time being I still haven't decided how far to go with engine mods.

    I have decided to buy those mikuni carbs for two reasons...I found them very cheap, 2nd I couldn't deal with my present CVK's.

     

    • Like 1

    40mm Mikuni carbs swap

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted

    2 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

    The only ones that will natively fit 40mm CV carbs are from GSXR 1100 M or N (1991 and 1992) The largest 750 rubbers were 38mm which sometimes can be stretched but it's painful to do!

    Kinda wierd, Over 42mm for 38mm carb?

     

    image_3.jpg

    40mm Mikuni carbs swap

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted

    36 minutes ago, Oilyspanner said:

    Fuel pumps for carbed bikes only operate at very low pressure, not like injected bikes - healthy float valves /seats should stop the fuel flow easily enough - do you actually need a pump on the In. 1200 ?.....maybe there's very little distance between the fuel tank and carb fuel inlets ?

    Are you tuning the motor ? 40mm carbs are good for mid-range up power. but you will lose some power lower down, if you big bore and flow the engine they're good - sorry if you've posted engine work being carried out in another post listing what you're doing. You'll need 41c00  inlet rubbers for the carbs and you'll need to match the inlet port entry to the diameter of the inlet rubbers ……. you probably know this and it's listed in your post somewhere !

    Another question was supposed to be regarding inlet rubbers. I got the original ones from 1100 with carbs but its rubbish, all cracked.

    Found this in amazon...but looks nothing like the original:(

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07CYJF1FH/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A2UR5TWQRNTCTM&psc=1

    On the other hand I found these but as per catalogue number they don't match

    Another question was supposed to be regarding inlet rubbers. I got the original ones from 1100 with carbs but its rubbish, all cracked.

    Found this in amazon...but looks nothing like the original

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07CYJF1FH/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A2UR5TWQRNTCTM&psc=1

    On the other hand I found these but as per catalogue number they don't match

    https://m.olx.pl/oferta/krociec-gaznika-suzuki-CID5-IDy9Hvi.html#position=1&page=2

     

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