v-twinwalker

Would the rear wheel from a watercooled gsxr also be lighter? I have the banana style swingarm if that's the braced one, sorry don't know much in the realm of modifying bikes. I know the watercooled are straight spoke vs the slingshot being curved but if the watercooled are no doubt the lighter set then I will go for them.

just logged on here probably after 6 years and...what the hell is my name lol. anyways, just wondering if gsxr1100w wheels will be a straight fit to an 89 gsxr750 swingarm and a 91 gsxr750 front end without tweaking things around a good bit. also i guess i gotta ask this aswell, will a gsxr750w swingarm be a straight swap on a 89 gsxr750 frame AND if it is and i do that will the gsxr1100w rear wheel be a straight swap? id like to know how well the chain aligns to the wheel and also the brake caliper to the disc if this is not the way to go as far as putting a wider rear wheel on then how do people generally do the conversion? is there any front wheel swaps for the 91 gsxr750 front end that make the bike a better ride? if theres a thread that lists all the possible swaps and conversion for these bikes please link it to me, thankyou

yeah my bike ran a bit rich it definently was tampered with, wish i could give updates but im just waiting for some parts to get down to the carbs again, i wouldnt wanna mess with it if im not gonna be able to see the affect while im doin it.

yeah i meant the internals thank god i was boutta look like a fukn idiot cuz i mixed and matched them

ill check it the people on gsresources gave me a good one that went over every bit and piece, i dont know if i want to tear my carbs apart like they showed me because it involves seperating them into individual carbs, are the pieces mix and match? im not sure because i know there is a main carb then the others but maybe thats just how they get fuel. i forget who gave me the site for o-rings and stuff like that but thankyou and then thankyou everyone who keeps telling me im wrong because i am lol and gives me better advice. hopefully i wont be on here repeatedly asking why my bike wont start and itll be up when i get my parts for it.

i did find this and i looked at this chart but obviously didnt know what parts actually do what but yeah my pilot air screw is non adjustable i was stressing over it thinking thats what i was supposed to be adjusting, as for the caps that cover the pivot screw they have already been took off before i didnt know there was even a cap that covers them, im not touching it itll be left alone until i know what im even doing to balance them out. i will be getting a manual, heres what i found out. 1) the bike wont start or want to start if i run it with no airbox/pods, which it didnt so ill be putting them back on i didnt realise it would stop it from wanting to run at all, 2) my fuel valve was leaking and flooded my float bowls while i was trying to get it started. 3) i just need to read things myself before asking question over question. the people on gsresources said get ur bike started before you even begin to mess with ur idle mixture, but yall are saying id need to take them out to properly clean the carbs, should i count the number of turns it is to take them out, or just leave it alone and focus on what i did wrong the first time before moving on to the next thing. i have a sense of hope since i didnt mess up any adjustments and that itll be back soon.

ive looked on this site and went all through my manual and i couldnt find the number of turns im supposed to do, im gonna be looking on gs-resources more since its specified more for my bike

yeah no i noticed that when i first started doing it and buying oem used parts off Eblag gets you with the shipping costs, when i first called a shop they said they dont work on older bikes because opening it up can cause more problems. i guess im just trying to rush it because i need it to get around, i have my tire and everything works on the bike except my fuel valve and obviously it wont start hopefully because the carbs, im sure it is because the bikes ran before and we thought it ran on 3 cylinders because a spark test and a cylinder wasnt showing any change of tone and then we turned the idle up and all 4 showed a change in tone, i have the fuel valve already ordered and ill be reading more about it before i touch the carbs again. i also agree i dont think the spray does much i mean it got majority and i also had to wipe hard on some spots a bit because the spray wasnt getting the rust out but the carbs werent terribly dirty, i definitely wanna do the gel or acitone whatever it is and get them looking new. yes im that guy but i wont be always i hope it changes later on i worried alot right when i got the bike because it did smoke when the dude first started it up and it was sitting for a while and also it was posted for $1000 and he said yes to 750 right away and i got it for 700. my buddy ran the shit out of it on the way home and it was a 30 minute drive back and nothing went wrong and the smoke was barely even visible, it ended up stopping alltogether, i ran it all the time for the next two days would start right up then it shut off on me twice during a little longer of its usual ride when i pulled the clutch in to downshift and stop and then it ended up sitting at my friends and i wanted to start it weekly but it ended up not happening that way and then it didnt wanna start. i was impatient to get a bike because i was looking for over two months and the day i was gonna check out a old virago the dude cancelled an i was just like im getting a bike today.

its my pilot air jet that i took out, it says specification is #160, does that make sense? does it mean degrees? im looking at a manual online. saw nothing about tuning my air fuel mixture i saw balancing carbs but thats mainly it. i have mikuni bs32ss carbs so ill look them up maybe itll help.

im gonna take pics of the carbs to make sure what im talking about is the right thing just cant be safe enough

here is my last thing i have to say, i cant have my airbox on when i work with the air ratio. ill put on the original airbox and leave the idea of ITBs out of my head for a while. im assuming i just have to look up the standard spec for the number of turns i do, but does anyone know it off hand. im still gonna be looking it up i need to learn more since im gonna have to take this over.

yes i still havent got a manual and yea it took me like 4 different posts before i opened the carbs and saw they needed cleaning, ur not wrong when you say what to do just dont deliver it in the nicest way. ill stop doing dumb things and stick to just fixing it.

you're right i just dont really know what im doing and the more i learn the more i realise i dont know much. if i had a chance to get a different and simpler bike i wouldve, but i cant now and i like it too much to sell it.

yeah i was thinking that right before i checked this, its just a complete pain in the ass to get the first half of my airbox back in, i saw a vid just watching people work on projects and he said hes gonna rejet the carbs since hes doing pods so thats steering me away from the idea guess ill just have pods sitting till i wanna use them. i have things ordered i am gonna try again when i get the fuel valve and gaskets, then im gonna open the carbs up again prob just from the float bowls to do the gaskets quick i did the cleaning good, i had no clue i messed with my air fuel ratio if i knew it was that screw i wouldnt have done it.

fuck me i gotta do it myself the shop thatll work on my bike has 5 projects before me and i found out that the carb clean vid i used had me take out my airscrews and didnt tell me how to put them back in correctly so now i know about turns(wish i didnt take em out at all). gonna wait till i get the new fuel valve first but im gonna do 1 1/2 turns, hopefully thee bike starts up and ill finer tune from there, do i have to redo the air fuel ratio when putting pods on my carbs? guys how fucked am i