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vitesse

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    B12-GSXR750M and dot head mix'n match

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted

    Hi everyone, so a while back I bought a B12 engine really cheap but with all motormounts broken... I've got engine cases from a gsxr 1100m and since I 've just found a GSXF 750 engine with a Dot head I was thinking of transferring the internals of the B12 in the 1100m cases using the DOT head and use cams out of a gsxr750m...

    Is this doable, is there any gain  (carbs would be the 38mm from the 750m)

    Need your axpert advice of what is involved here.

    Bandit or Teapot 600 carbs

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted

    59 minutes ago, wraith said:

    Both are ok carbs, but some of the gsx600f carbs are oval on the air intake side but the b6 are round.

    If you're keeping it standard (air box, zorst) stick with the b6 carbs 

    Floaters in 1 carb are missing in the b6 carbs, otherwise, I'm putting a yoshi exhaust of the same teapot and kn filter in the std airbox, si I guess i'll stick with the teapot-carbs .

     

    Bandit or Teapot 600 carbs

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted

    So here it goes :  I got a b6 for next to nothing and I'm redoing it to pass on to a friend of mine.

    While dissassembling the carbs( CVK32) I noticed parts missing like the floats and some other stuff. I've got carbs from a teapot 600 in my stash and these are flatslides (bst32) . Wich one do I rebuild? Wichone is better?

     

    Thanks for your expert advice, fellah's

     

    1100 M No more headlights after prolonged hibernation

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted

    On 14-10-2017 at 4:50 PM, suzook12 said:

    Agreed, Try breaking in to the black/white from the headlamp plug and taking it straight to battery negative. If that works, you can either run a permanent wire as all the earths at front end are inter connected iirc. You will need a wire of 2.5mm2 or larger.... The Hi beam warning light shares the same supply as the headlight but has its own earth path, so you are getting power to the switches. I also think running 10A + through a handlebar switch is a poor idea, I would add a pair of relays anyway to preserve the life of the switchgear, I have seen switchgear wiring have a melt down before.....

     

    Yep, indeed the rear lights work. As you mentioned I will bridge the negative from the battery to the headlamps and put some relays in the circuit asap. In my case as it's a european spec 1100m there's even 20 amps blowing through the handlebars.

     

    Thanks for the advice, everyone!

     

    1100 M No more headlights after prolonged hibernation

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted

    Hello peeps,

     

    After some years of hibernation, I 've decided to dust of the cobwebs of my 1100m, everything seemed to work fine and now for some reason the headlights won't light up, all else works perfect. When I try to switch on the lights, only the high beam indicator lights up (even with no high beam) and position light is very weak. I've tested the handlebar switches and they seem to work ok without shorting. I'm beginning to think some rodent had a go at my cable loom...

    IMG_1012.JPG

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