MalkyB
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Posts posted by MalkyB
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OK so I guess no one else had the issue - I fixed it after splashine out £10 on clutch cable pull from a Bloop, drilled out the rivets then used a small wired nut & bolt to secure it (couldn't get a replacement rivet in without destroying it) and re-assembling.
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Has anyone had an issue like me with the clutch cable pulling through the retaining clip that's riveted onto the Screw Assembly part 23200-15001.
The part is obsolete - there's a very dodgy looking one from the US on Eblag so I don't want to go that route - anyone ever had this issue and how did you fix it...???
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You’ll be pleased with the Higgspeeds I can guarantee that. Good luck!!
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They are indeed Higgspeed pipes. The quality is very good and the weight saving over the stock exhausts is really quite dramatic. They are somewhat LOUD THOUGH
I have only ridden (read limped) up the road & limped even slower back before the lockdown hit. The bike was running on one cylinder - stuck float valve in one carb (that was the carb that was working!) and the other carb had a blocked jet somewhere (now cured). Trying to get the bike to move was a struggle and the noise....!!! Now purring like a kitten on tickover - clearly a kitten that sounds like it's a ring-ding-a-dinging a bell in an off-beat kind of way
Buy earplugs (I just ordered some) but IMHO the pipes are excellent. I think the GP cans look great too.
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If you could only get the real 70's stuff! Now I'd pay good money for that...!
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I know! I can easily see why people get hooked!
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Sounds just the medicine :)
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Almost being the right word. After all sorts of electrical problems I now only have carburettor issues...
One carb I have a sticky float valve, the other carb I have an issue with the pilot jet as now plenty of sparks and compression.... but no actual firing but hey ho. The scary thing is how loud those pipes are running on one cylinder!
I'm pleased with it anyway
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Yup #10 is the problem. I’ll post the issue on the Sundial forum too. Thanks again for the tip.
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Many thanks for the tip!
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I'm sure there's someone who can answer this for me - is there an alternative to spending about £80 on a replacement oil line from the oil tank to the oil pump??
It looks to me like a small bore tube that should cost a few pennies....but that doesn't always translate into replacing a 40+ year old part!
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I have posted it to Rex’s as Marcus tells me they’re going to invest in a machine that does this re-magnetising. I believe they’re going to try it out on the old rotor as a test.
I wouldn’t have known that it had lost magnetism as it felt quite strong to me but.....when the new rotor arrived the difference was very noticeable. -
The culprit....!
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Hi all, just a quick note to let you know there's an article in Classic Motorcycle Mechanics about a restored T500 this month .....or is it next month...??? I believe it's the March issue....but it comes out in Feb.
Looks smart!
Hopefully mine doesn't take the 3 years it took that guy!
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Oh - it happened alright
I'll get some pictures up over the weekend of all the new parts.....there are a few
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Hooray!! Many thanks to everyone that helped - After replacing almost everything it seems I should have just.....replaced everything.
I ordered a NOS rotor, arrived today and within 10 minutes I had sparks. The one thing it shouldn't have been - it was!
I'm one happy bunny
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Yup - same thing as your Briggs & Stratton
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The spark should be triggered by the pulsar coil on top of the flywheel rotor. No points as GTs had (aptly named) pointless ignition
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Many thanks Dezza - yes the frame is powder coated but I can get a good contact from the battery back to ground on the engine.
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The ignition switch was duff - no power to the black / yellow feed to the CDI box, A spur runs to the kill switch which I had thought was dodgy but clearly wasn't after sparks flew when I flipped it and had a temporary feed hooked up!
I've ordered a new ignition switch (for a X7 but was the only one I could find with 4 wires to the plug and 2 brown feeds for the parking lights) so that should sort out the lack of power to the CDI but......still why no spark now there's power to the CDI box..??? The coils (including HT cables plus & caps), pulsar oil, source coils, CDI and reg/rectifier are all new so all new wires. There's continuity from the CDI to the coils and with power (via a separate test feed) to the CDI now a fluctuating current to the coils.....everything but a spark!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This isn't likely to be something even sillier like no earth from the cylinder head when I hold the plug against it is it...???
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That's going to be checked tomorrow....!
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OK - changed everything but the loom and the bike and still no spark.
Can it be something silly like a faulty kill switch?
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Brilliant! Many thanks kind sir!
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Hi Dezza, thanks for your reply. I have an almost useless Haynes manual - I had one when I originally owned a GT in the 70s. Back then the bike was only a yeaar or so old when I had it so the manual seemed (to an 18 year-old) quite comprehensive....mainly because I didn't have to fiddle with anything and it was all still shiny & new.
The bike I have now is er.....far from new and suffered the effects of time and weather and Haynes is rubbish with top tips such as 'remove the rotor on the end of the flywheel.....' or 'check the component is in tolerance...' Are Suzuki genuine manuals available???
I've been in touch with Marcus at Rex's and he's made some suggestions to do with the pick up coil and ignition coil so my fingers are crossed!
Choke lever doesn't stay engaged GT500
in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes
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Anyone have any ideas as to why my choke lever won't stay on..?? I had the carbs professionally cleaned ((maybe t they ae too clean now....???) as when I bought the bike it had several badgers nesting in it.
The lever and linkage work fine on the left carb. I apply the lever with the right carb not connected and the lever latches on the little spring clip no problem but....I connect the right carb and there doesn't seem to be enough tension in the retaining clip to withstand the return springs of both carbs together.
At the moment to keep the choke on I have to pop a clothes peg under the right carb choke lever which doesn't add much to my street cred (low enough already!)