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grebo

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Posts posted by grebo

  1. Have you read the whole thing or just dropped in .You do know I'm just defining positions by using scrap so I can develop prototype and finished components . All I have done is found out where things should be  in a practical shed built way. I have very little time and even less money due to running an engineering business however I may have more time on my hands as my reputation is in tatters. LOL  .  Its them brackets init PMSL

  2. Altered rear mounts to raise rear sprocket ,put it back on wheels to see what it was like loaded .

    so this is under its own weight

    IMAG0009.thumb.JPG.000a24a45ffaea02f98f606b0a41d4d7.JPG

     

    IMAG0011.thumb.JPG.468c80608f16556140e8eaa5a62e4406.JPG.The VFR shock is stiff in its own right,11/1 Ratio on arm, but don't think bottom shock link is in correct position as with my weight on it,(19 st)  did not go very far. So cant really sort anything till its all going boing .But Good to be back in shed .Electricity supply to shed on cards for this summer .One step forward 2 back the joy of specials

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    • Like 1
  3. Don't know if I'm missing something here but as I understand it this is simply a 7/11 motor .ie 1100 barrels on a 750 bottom end giving an1100 with a 6 speed box .people seem to call 1100 motors in 750 frames 7/11 's but originally this would be where I know the term 7/11 from

  4. Thanks for that Markfoggy  I've  read of a couple of sites and found it  interesting .I'll bang it back together and off the engine  stand see where it ends up, and alter accordingly. Think it will be  interesting to find out the difference between guess and calculation.

     

  5. So spacers sorted ,brackets fitted .................My dog loves bike fixin

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    Now I can fit the arm the drive sprocket is too low.

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     A tape measure placed on top of the rear sprocket and the drive sprocket just touches the top of swing arm .I'd say I need to raise the engine half a chain width plus the thickness of the chain buffer .Then the weight of the bike will give the final bit of clearance when its on the suspension.

    These brackets are being a royal pain but determined to sort it this time 

     

  6. I've been musing over the tank  .As it sits to the rear frame rails ,If its altered I'd say Mag 1 but  I'm not sure

    Harris do a Mag 4 style for the Mag2,never seen one so could be one of those.

      I'll need to have some kind of tank clearance Mag 4 style on my Harris ,but am stuck not wanting to alter the original tank.Thought I'd solved the problem with a purchase some time ago ,but it turned out to be a Spondon  tank ,stashed for future use.

     So put me out of my misery plz. Think I'm going to look at having one made

  7. 18 hours ago, Cangix said:

    Please excuse my ignorance but wtf is a Harris????

    A way to buy loads of parts that at maximum. cost  £50 cos they are old represent a sound investment ,bit like bargain hunt dear ........that's my story and I'm sticking to it

    stick around you'll want one 

    • Like 1
  8. Removed the two old temporary brackets that gave me the position of the lower suspension mounting point and fitted the two new brackets .

    Left hand one interferes with the old rear engine mounting stub   

    Trial fitted the arm and need to offset the brackets  left hand one 15mm and the right hand one another 10mm, both to the left 

    so need to make some spacers 

    will space left bracket at the engine ,this will clear  Left hand bracket  of the  engine mounting stub but throws it close to the chain run have to see how that works out

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  9. Had to be inventive due to lack of scrap at work so fabricated some brackets out of strip.

    they fit ok . Think engine sits ok clearance all round cam cover

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    Made another part of template ,this will give the general idea where I'm going with this. Got the idea when Gixxerm8 posted pictures of his rear engine mounts in his Harris Magnum II Build , If I can extend them around and brace back to bracket they can be fabricated rather than fixed to frame. I can then re-weld the original rear lowers  that seem to line up well with the new brackets 

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    • Like 1
  10. Altered the front mounts to drop it another 20mm or so. 

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     Propped back end up and made some cardboard templates

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    Strengthened templates with some random bit of cane and packing tape

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    All them years of watching Blue Peter paid off  

    • Like 2
  11. Engine stand works fine .I can attach it to the bottom of the engine.Tilt it until roller touches floor ,put my foot against roller then using the lever roll the engine upright . it did surprise me the unbraced legs stood up to it as the box section  is only 1mm wall ,may add a couple of straps anyway to be sure.

    Attached engine plates and front stud ,the top of the engine fouls the frame but the rear does line up . going to try another front plate to get engine lower and forward a little 

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  12. It did work but only a small victory ,had to remove the front support as it interferes with access to  the front mounts ,so engine is currently held up with bit of wood under sump will make new bit with some adjustment as the wood is slightly too thick and engine tilts backward .I can move the engine around as is but may put a roller on it because I'm a bit stuck for space due to shed full of back burner projects.

     

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    • Like 1
  13. 39 minutes ago, Captain Chaos said:

    they will both not mow the lawn

    I've had a word with her about the lawn and she said she cant get to the mower because of the engines in the gardening shed. this has come as a revelation to me as I didn't know it was termed the gardening shed .So using logic I said as  there are more engines than mowers  should it not be termed the engine shed . Generally when it goes quiet I'm right .

     

    1 hour ago, Jaydee said:

    Nah, the charcoal is just gonna fall through it. The one in the background should work better. :D

      It just drops over a mini  rim as a rotisserie

    • Like 5
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