Brokenbill
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Posts posted by Brokenbill
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i tired rotex after two turbo's and was highly disapointed.. turbo all the way..
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okay okay, I do know what plasti-gauge is.. but thanks for the reminder Wraith and Duckndive ....
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hi everyone,
just got my engine split and now need new shells, two things, can you loosen cam chain and lower crank enough to change top shells?
secondly, how do i identify them?
any help greatfuly recieved..
Bill
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1 hour ago, Goo'Roo said:
I'm comparing 1100M and gsf1200 gearboxes. They are similar, except for the double row bearing on the secondary shaft.
3rd and 4th gear on the 11m are slightly larger on the teeth (1-1,2mm) but share the same overall dimensions, so I consider them swappable at the moment.
I have the same problem on 3rd and 4th gears on 3 gsf engines I had and on a customer one.
I'll keep posting about that in the next days
I know of four friends that have had same issues with 3rd gear?? will be internested to find out?
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10 hours ago, Askamaskinservice said:
Good.
When i read my answer it seems a bit harsh, not my intention.
no worries. thanks for the info. you can never have to many outlets to check for parts.
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56 minutes ago, Askamaskinservice said:
So it would be easyer to help if you have an actual partnr.
Is it the same from 95-07?
Hi, I do have part numbers but they have changed. seems that partzilla has therm all..:)
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59 minutes ago, Ted M said:
@Brokenbill, just checked Partzilla in the States and they have 3rd gear input and output for the 1200 @ $190.
thanks for that Ted, will get on to them
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4 hours ago, banoffee said:
Robinsons Foundry?
14 minutes ago, Brokenbill said:thanks for the link but 3rd gear is crossed out on their site
just cross referenced it with new part number from Robinsons foundry and they have one for output .! unfortunatly can't seem to get a search for input one...
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4 hours ago, Askamaskinservice said:
thanks for the link but 3rd gear is crossed out on their site
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Hi,
just stripped my bandit which has done over 18k with 320 at the rear wheel (although I tend to run it at 250 most of the time on the road) I have a donor engine as I managed to bend the input shaft on mine and 3rd gear is pretty whiney.. unfortuanatly 3rd is worn out on my donor engine too!
have tried fowlers but gears are on back order and having no luck finding anywhere that has one (or two should I say)
any suggestions greatfuly recieved??
Bill
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Just now, Brokenbill said:
jack says he's had no trouble with Talon and he's running 800 bhp but then he's not doing 3 to 5k on them
he also said renthal last longer than talon
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23 hours ago, Blubber said:
What does holeshot recommended?
jack says he's had no trouble with Talon and he's running 800 bhp but then he's not doing 3 to 5k on them
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On 3/26/2019 at 7:04 AM, MeanBean49 said:
I would be more worried about the wheels than the sprocket lol.
Talon hard ally ones hold up really well on mine, but if you want steel look at supersprox, they are really good
will do. thanks for the info
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On 3/26/2019 at 12:03 AM, Cheeky4648 said:
If it’s a ca5 wheel set as I have. A busa sprocket will fit. Ca5 wheels are rated for 300hp.
thanks for that cheeky. will order some up.. going to the faro rally this year so would prefer steel as I know how long they last..
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Hi, just waiting for delivery of my carbon wheels and have been told 1st generation busa sprocket may fit?
as the bike is putting out over 500 ponies, don't want aluminium. have spoke to talon, renthal, etc. wondering if anyone has any info?
all the best,
Bill
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yup, jack frost at holeshot built it for me. turbo busa pistons, h/d studs, cams, lock up clutch, eboost2 neatly stuck in where the fuel gauge used to be with 3 settings.
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my bandit is running 320 at the rear on full boost. done 18k on standard rods so far? the gearbox is a bit noisy now so about to strip down and will check them out but no knocking at the moment..
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tick over issue
in Forced Induction
Posted
Hi everyone,
just finished re building my bandit . he's done just over 20k with 300 break begfore this stripdown with no issues. ( one good thing about lock down)
put in new gearbox, clutch, shells and big ends, the rest of it is still fine and dandy. now i've had this issue with tickover since the original build. checked all the usual suspects (stiripped and cleaned carbs, float heights, balanced with mercury gauges, checked for air leaks etc) starts up on choke fine and when warm, trys to tick over, by applying a tiny bit of resistance to the throttle its sweet, if i try to raise the tick over screw, it will then not shut down the revs once the throttle has been used. this was my first turbo and just lived with it. I now having two others with fuel injection and never having any issues, i would really like to suss out what's going on? any help greatfuly recieved..
all the best and stay safe,
Bill