Rhubarb
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Posts posted by Rhubarb
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20 minutes ago, Dezza said:
Personally, I would split the bank. And after removing the carb tops the slides will come out easily. The butterflies will remain in situ. Inbetween 1 & 2 and 3 & 4 is an alloy piece for the fuel feed with O'rings that often perish. Between 2 & 3 is a t-piece with the same o'rings. You will have to split the bank to inspect these. The screws holding the bank together on the bars can be difficut to remove due to corrosion so make sure you have a correct fitting screwdriver. Often you'll need to use an impact driver but if so make sure you support everything well with bits of wood or it could all end in tears. When the carbs are in bits use correctly fitting screwdrivers, esepcially on the brass bits. Once you have dismantled and rebuilt a set of carbs you'll realise it's all pretty straightforward for the next set. Oh, and when removing the float pivots be very careful. Often people resort to using a small punch or drift to get them out which will break the mounting posts unless supported. Happy carb work
probably the most help im gonna get with this! nervous to do it, probably gonna break it, but you dont learn if you dont try i guess. in two minds as to wether to send them off to be professionally done but its more money.... parts are expensive enough!!!
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8 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:
Nothing to be worried about. Keep individual parts with the carb they came out of ... particularly the slides. Use plenty carb cleaner ( some types aren't compatible with o rings, so remove them), and compressed air. Things start to get harder if you split the carbs from the rack. If you've an Ultrasonic Cleaner, use it! Get stuck in!
so leave the sliders and bars in place you reckon?
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13 hours ago, Dezza said:
Wash them with paraffin first. They look so minging I doubt they will come apart without a fight but you may be lucky. As said above use a decent fitting screwdriver or the screws will mash easily. One think to keep in mind is the float bowl gaskets may stick and become damaged when the bowls are removed and OEM replacements, as with all carb parts, cost a lot and everything is x4.
so its really not a job for a novice?
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7 minutes ago, gs7_11 said:
Measure the outlet (engine) side... that should be 32mm if they are BS32's.
34mm. so im guessing they are bs34.... and ive made a rookie error
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hey guys
so i got these carbs with the 83 gsx750 but im looking around online for rebuild kits and things just dont look right.
so. i believe they should be mikuni bs32ss carbs... they have a 38mm diameter on the inlet side
pics inlcuded below im hoping someone kind soul is able to help me
pic quality isnt great im sorry.
further to that note, can anyone recommend a good place to get a good rebuild kit, and maybe a good guide to do it? ive never dont carbs before but i wont learn if i dont try!!!
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Anything is achievable with will and ingenuity.
As said theres loads of info on here just gotta go for a browse.
And as for not Oss standard practice....
Look my project up. Entirely Suzuki, well maybe not the rear wheel... But otherwise defective of everything else expected
Welcome dude
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Are you confident the wires are going to the correct places?
If your getting light with a direct feed then I would suggest one of those cables is in the wrong place or your earth is not good.
Failing that if it's original wiring cables coukd have corroded
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Chaps
Are there any bigger wheels that work as a direct replacement to the standard 16" on an 83 es or would I breaching caliper to disc sizing...
Need to put something bigger on the front, an 18 would be great but have a feeling I may need to change fork setup to achieve this.
Feeling very noob right now so look forward to some advice
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If you sell the vm29 carbs I'd be interested my man
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Caustic soda doesn't work so well anymore I tried this with my wheels very recently and whilst it softens the paint a little and removes miniscule amounts it didn't actually work.
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18 minutes ago, inazumarob said:
Size up both bottom bearings, you will probably find 750 one is smaller. You can get bigger bearing to fit if this is the case. Try allballs website.
Thanks dude appreciated
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Drill some holes in existing yokes and fit risers dude job done
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Following intently
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Quick one
Yokes seem to fit fine, steering stem too, top bearing seems solid but bottom bearing has play, compete 360 movement
Is it easier to fit a gs set of yokes or am I missing a trick here.....
Gs1000 is 1979 and gsx750 is 1983
Thanks
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12 minutes ago, R1guy said:
Get a machine shop to turn one up?
If I know exactly what size then sure
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Thanks man I'd appreciate that. Don't have side ones just have the front one and then the at the rear
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Is it m8? If it is that's all I need to know I can make the rest from there
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3 minutes ago, Ibbo said:
If you take tne one from the opposite side down to your local bolt shop then you will soon get sorted.
Mike
It's at the front dude there is one bolt that goes through the crankcase housing. If I had one I could take to a shop I'd be sorted sadly I don't not
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Because I'm an idiot I've lost the bolt for the engine mount at the front
I've looked on a few sites but everywhere seems to have no stock.
Does any good soul know where I might get one ? Or even the sizing so I could source
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Just now, wraith said:
I have put a rgv250 front wheel in a gsx550ef before, 17" wheel went straight in just needed to make some mounting plates for the calipers.
Useful to know but definitely what I'm trying to avoid.... But it's an option at least
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Beautiful!!! Thank you
Guess I'm staying with gsx wheel
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Seriously though I don't know what the nicknames mean.... And I'm now embarrassed
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Perfect I'll install one of them to the bike tomorrow
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Awesome.
Now, here's my newbie shiz coming up.
What is a slabby......
carb ID and rebuild advice/help
in Air Cooled
Posted
fairly certain i do now! was unsure to begin with but happy now