Slabby11
-
Posts
68 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Slabby11
-
-
11 hours ago, Panos said:
Carb rubbers im forced to use the shim head ones as i have BST 40mm so maybe thats an issue on the way .
The 1100n rubbers will bolt up but will have some pretty big mismatches, easiest solution is dot head rubbers but fitting your BST40's will be a challenge or head work to match the 1100n rubbers. All-in-all i'd be tempted to find an 1100 screw adjuster head and rework it to suit want you want
-
1
-
-
Do a quick search for 'Suzuki GSX suspension kit' on the auction site - looks like a new OEM kit for both ends.
-
That's turned out very nice
-
Be aware that the slabby has a somewhat unique rear suspension system, possible but not straightforward to just slot something else in there.
-
1
-
-
The 750 swingarm will take a 5.5" rear wheel - I have one in my 86.
-
Early hounda fireplace discs are the same bolt pattern - there are a number of diameters and offsets so needs a bit of research to get exactly what you need to match the calipers
-
1
-
-
Very cool indeed, liking the idea of a turbo slabby.
-
Hmm.. slabby tanks... If theres one rule for slabby tanks it's that Japan fitted every type to every model at some point or for different markets. The black tank in the picture is generally considered an 1100 tank, except when it isn't. The more square side profile tank is generally considered a 750 tank, except when it isn't. The narrower tap mounting holes are generally for the non-vacuum on off prime tap used by slide carbs. The tank with the big round fitting underneath has a fuel level sender, generally Japanese market, except when it's not, bit of a theme here.
-
If you go to healtech's speedohealer webpage at the bottom there's an About the SpeedoHealer section that has an online calculator, put in the sprocket and wheel sizes and it will give you the percentage change, set that in the Speedohealer and everything should be good.
-
1
-
-
They turn up on the auction site quite regularly. There are 3 approaches;
1 Buy one with a Suzuki harness. Needs a bit of patience.
2 Buy the cheapest one with the intention of replacing the harness. £20 - 25 extra.
3 Buy the cheapest one and replace the plugs with Suzuki ones.
A note of caution, the V4 comes with a top speed memory button (if fitted) so have a "closed road", "private aerodrome", "just got back from Mexico" story ready if you get a tug and the nice policeman is aware of such things - and some are.
-
1
-
-
Speedohealer sorts that out. New fangled but necessary.
-
1
-
-
Looks like its from one of the water cooled gsxr's, the lower holes are the fixings for the clip-ons, try looking at the 1100's first they had the clip-ons on top of the yoke.
-
If you have both of the mounting brackets it should be reasonably straightforward to do, grab some cardboard and trace the two mounting parts that you need and join the middle bit in free hand, knock up a quick aluminium test piece and job done.
-
1
-
-
Are these from Suzuki or a pattern set?
-
A quick Google brings up some other forums where it seems it has been done but they are very light on the technical details, if it needs to be done just give it a go. If the main seal has gone Allballs seem to sell them but you'll need to check which one is correct.
-
I think the 750m head is shim type so cams aren't right and dot heads had 36mm carbs so fitting 38s will be a squeeze, using the 750m inlet rubbers will need a fair bit of port matching to work.
-
If black is the original engine colour then probably not a slabby or slingy engine, 750 teapots used both long and short stroke 750 engine so cc from the barrels or first part of the engine number will sort out what it actually came from.
-
To get the front close to the engine plates the bottom mount sits just where the left side main oil casting is, forcing the engine up, and the side stand mount is pushing the engine hard to the right so looks like they both have to get the chop, best get the engine out and fire up the grinder.
-
1
-
-
The problem is my engine just doesn't seem to fit. Its an unmodified GS1000 frame and a stock-ish GSXR1100k engine, I have the 1100k, gs1000 and the 'kit' brackets from Eblag and none of them are working for me.
The issues are on the left side of the frame, the engine is sitting on/against the side stand bracket where it comes inside the frame and on the bottom engine mount which are stopping the engine from sitting low enough to fit any engine brackets. So how does an oil cooled engine fit into a GS frame? Project build coming shortly.
-
I think one of the problems is getting the in-tank regulator a boost reference.
-
I think Pasis on the old forum had this setup for a while, there may still be picture around for comparison.
-
If your switch has 4 wires one of those pins will be the normal gear position wiper the other is for earth to ensure the cdi gets a good signal.
-
You could move the entire mechanism to the centre of the throttle-bodies as has been done in a couple of build projects on here or I had venhill make mine, they need the original cables for the end filttings and how much longer you need them, turned mine around in just over a week.
-
I asked a seller for some for some details when I was looking for a replacement for a project - didn't ask that tho, sorry
Velocity stacks
in Forced Induction
Posted
The Kawa turbo 750 plenum used standard type rubber connectors with velocity stacks in the plenum - mid 80's tech but might be worth a look to see how they did it.