martyngsxr
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Posts posted by martyngsxr
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Grease my self u and prepare for penetration captain
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I havent greased up the lever were it touches the piston ill do that and see what its like and take it from there
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Serviced the master cylinder and its still a bit like a light switch
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Not for show as i use the bike as my commuter in and around bristol so want it to be a upgrade
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Want to upgrade the front master cylinder on mine but dont want spend huge money whats going to work with the nissin 4 pots
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90 and 91 l/m only have a opener as i have both bikes different float bowls but same cable setup
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on mine number 5 was broken they are just plastic retaining clips
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my 750l has 72'000 miles on it i use daily as my commuter change the oil probably every 4 months
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That definitely looks like the 750 system as all 4 pipes go to the right into the collector. As far as I'm aware the 1100 go 2 to the right of the sump and 2 to the left and then meet the collector behind the sump I'll add some pictures of mine camera not good on my phone though
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yeah the baffle is in the link pipe were the end can slips on
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sounds like you have a micron system on yours has the link pipe got a baffle/reducer welded in ive got a stainless micron system on mine and it touches the belly pan so i run it without ill post some pictures of mine later today
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Jhs racing just outside Bristol may be able to shed some light on the shock there pretty knowledgeable on ohlins stuff
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this may be of some help
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Has anyone fitted a set of k1 downpipes on a 750m I know I'm going to have to do a bit of heating and bending
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i second the l/m access in the float bowls ive got both l and m and its the l that has the access panels in the float bowls
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Got the carbs off my project 750m so going over a few things checked in the Haynes manual for the mixture screw settings it says 1 1/8 turns out. It's running standard airbox but with a k&n filter I was thinking roughly 1.5 turns out
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I was looking at going tomorrow
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Found the problem fubared top cap and adjuster now on the lookout for a replacement
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Okay can someone clarify something for me I always thought the l and m used the same forks well just went to fit my spare set of forks and it seems that what I thought were m forks are roughly 5mm shorter than my l forks
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Nissin 4 pots 90mm spacing
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No on the 4 pots the pad pin is threaded not just a simple pin
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Well I'm fucked split the caliper vice grips didn't even touch it that's even using heat so had what I thought was a good idea cut a thread on the shaft and locked 2 nuts together all that did was sheared what was left of the pin
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Slowly getting there on the project bike but someone has rounded of the head on the pad pin going to try mole grips later if that fails anyone got any suggestions
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as far as im aware that's correct but I may be wrong ive got both l and m and the l definitely had the quick access bit and the m didn't
1991 750M Rear Wheel Spacer Issue
in Oil Cooled
Posted
i agree with the spacer is the brake side also what i have found is i had a spare rear sprocket carrier that i serviced with new bearings and such when i fitted it i found the sprocket bolts touched the swingarm when i compared the bolts side by side they were roughly 3 - 5 mm difference in lengths