RevinKevin
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Posts posted by RevinKevin
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Hi , need to replace/ my front brake master cylinder on Bandit 1200. I am now using it as a track bike. Looking for best tried and tested inexpensive options.I already have steel braided lines and will be getting new rotors/discs..I have standard 4 pot calipers that have been rebuilt,new pistons and seals.Not racing ( yet lol ), just out having fun. Thanks
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On 2/6/2021 at 2:54 AM, Steve1150 said:
Hi guys, I’m looking for info if anyone has it on if I can put a Bandit 1200 head on my 85 1150, and if so, are there any performance benefits that would make it worth doing?
I would not bother, the standard head on the EFE was a ground breaking winner, tried and tested ,abused and still being used in racing. Spend your money and time on tuning that awesome engine...gas flow, porting, big bore kits ,carbs,air filters,exhaust system etc
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I had a GS1000 that I put a GSX1100 box section swinging arm on,upgraded the shocks [ditched the heavy air assisted bollocks] put progressive spings in front forks and played with oil and air space. Fitted a fork brace. Custom made seat and a Power Bronze 'Bol d'Or fairing. She handled really really well...next step was engine improvement, was shattered when doing 90mph and a mate passed me ,two up on the back wheel of LC350 [ they had just come out ] ...Alas some scum bag stole her .. I then bought an EFE..OMG that engine is awesome....loved my efe ,but I don't thing it ever handled as well at the GS. Go for get that 16 valve beast in and loose that 8 valve slug
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On 2/15/2021 at 8:32 AM, TonyGee said:
I had a big debate with an arsehole (who was on here at one point) on another forum about greasing the back of pads, ive been doing it for over 40 years with not one problem and most mechanics worldwide do it, plus the guys who maintain their own bikes. Suzuki used to sell brake grease but stopped selling it because it was just to expensive and no one bought it. their is also many brake disc/pad manufactures who sell it or recommend it (google it) use the right grease and dont put too much on and it'll be fine. thats all I'm gona say on the matter as i dont want to get into another argument about it again.
Been doing the copper grease ever since I went from drum brake to disc brake,30 plus years...there will always be know it all knobheads lol
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Thanks, I had been told the 1000k 7/8 would fit. Just had some one offer up the 750 one but I will decline.
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Hi does anyone know if a GSXR 750 k rear shock will fit on a 1996 1200 Bandit ? If it does is it suitable with weight difference of the two motorcycles.
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It increase with speed but smooths out at around 3000rpm. I did notice it though mildy when in 5th and just burbling along at around 2500,doen hill, no load on engine,gearbox etc.
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On 5/27/2019 at 8:30 PM, bluedog59 said:
As you sometimes have a passenger and I actually have a B12 I understand your predicament. Buying a sports bike would give you better handling and more performance but, A. How much of it can you really use on the road ? B. They tend to have a postage stamp for a rear seat. My B12 has a WP rear shock, a fork swap ( but you can make the stock forks better), lighter wheels and a full Akra. With a bit of prudent spending and swapping you can make a "real world" bike that is good for riding to work, loading up with kit for weekends away and can hussle surprisingly well. It's also rather fun still being in their mirrors when the sports bike squid are giving it all the theatricals and preparing to make a hole in a hedge.
Hi Bluedog, I just reread your post and although I read your post llast year I neglected to thankyou for your onput. You did hit the nail on the head. I had previously owned an EFE that i bought in 1993 and rode heaps for the next 20 years. Great bike with very adequete standard suspension for the bike. So I am aware of how versitile the Bandit can be.. I have plenty of info now tto make the Bandit more useable all round. Thanks
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Hi my Bandit has just started to have quite a definate clunk when pulling away ,the clunk repeats in time with engine revolutions and dissapears at around 3000rpm..at first i thought it was issuse with chain and sprockets but chain is adusted fine and is fairly new along with the front and rear sproket. The gearbox runs fine all the way through to top and down again until under 3000rpm. Do I have a serious problem...is gearbox likely to go bang soon ?
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Cheers
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Hi, I am after any advice on what front end to replace the standard EFE ..I have been told that Kwaka ZX9 yolk and forks fit .. what taper bearing kit would still work with out any mods being made to the headstock/ frame etc. Thanks
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Cheers dude, cams and chain in now just gotta torque em ,then do valve clearances...could have her back in frame tonight
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I assume you mean the ignition pick up point...so I would follow the manual intructions using the centre of those two ignition pick up at 9 and 3 o clock.. , thanks .
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Hi I am fitting new cams and cam chain to my1984 GSX1100 EFE, engine is all assembled apart from cams . The manual I have gives instructions and pics for the previous ESD model..I am not to sure as to where the T mark should align to to set the cams . Any one able to clarify this for me please
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Hi stripped down carbs on 84 standard efe. Pilot jets had rubber plugs on and main jets all wrong acording to oem in manual. What is the dral with the pilot jets being plugged up ?
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Cheers,will check it out
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Hi I am after a set of new exhaust valves for m y 1986 EFE . Have searched the web here downunder in the land of Mad Max and nothing available . Any suggestions of where to get a set ? Thanks Revin.
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Hi. looking for best recomendation for an after market suspension upgrade a 1996 1200 bandit. The standard is as soggy/bouncy as and terrible two up
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I had a 1986 EFE for 13 years and i replaced the stock head bearings with a quality tapper head race set soon after getting it. This improveed the handling of front end heaps but i still go a wobble on the bars when no handed at 30mph and under. I lived with it,not really a problem. However my son now has a 1984 EFE and it has a tapper head race fitted already {it may be worn out } he has very bad intermittent wobbles that have gotten worse under braking at any speed and can feel whole bike wobble at just 60mph bends. Tyres are good, suspension is all good and front and rear setting are matched up right. We shall get a new head race set anyway. He is toying with idea ofva steering damper, Has any one got a recomendation of a good one that fits the EFE or any advice on the Dreaded EFE wobble, Thanks
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Hi I would like any information possible on the best tyres you have used on your EFE. I have used many in the past and back 20 years ago I found that Metzeler gave the best longivity with out compromising grip or handling. There fewer options now as my sons bike is on standard wheels with the added annoyance of the rear wheel being 18" not 17" ,this is a stupid thing that applied to these bikes hitting the Australian market. He has a pair of Bridgestone Battleaxe's at present ,[ 130 x 80 x18 ] great grip and handling but the rear has already flattened out and is almost bald at just 3 months..not too sure of how many miles/km he has done but he not happy with how soon he needing a new tyre. So any one with experience of 130 x 90/80 x18 tyres that last and do not flatten out. We have checked out rim size and could go to a 140x70x18 .
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Hi Everyone,
thank you all for your comments ,tips,and advice . Sorry for the delay in my reply. The bike belongs to my son and he has been riding it as his daily ride since we fixed the starter problem. We had the snapped off bolts removed at an engineers, also had them give the surface of starter clutch and flywheel a minimal grind and clean up. On reassembly we gave the brass plate a real good polish too. We cleaned/dressed the dowel and ran a drill down the dowel hole and packed it a little with two pack plastic/metal compound so that the dowel gave enough meat to locate both flywheel and starter clutch. We used standard Suzuki bolts with locite and standard torque settings. All ha s been good now for 3 months . My conclusion is the dowel not being long enough to begin with. Thanks again for all your help and support guys.
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8 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Does it start on the button or take a few cranks? It's usually slow cranking or crank inertia kick back - they are quite fragile HT bolts as std. I eventually gave up after breaking allsorts of metal types - I serviced the s. clutch, springs, rollers and pins and MIG welded 3No 1/2" stitch welds from clutch to rotor - never broke again (using high comp and 24v starting!)
Thanks,bike is standard,will weld as last resort but I reckon there is some minor simple issue that is causing this problem
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3 hours ago, Arttu said:
That's pretty usual fault. Happening on almost every engine sooner or later, I think. If it isn't some big bore high compression engine welding shouldn't be necessary. Here are tricks that I have been using with good success:
- Use 12.9 hardness bolts. Possibly torque them a bit over Suzuki spec.
- Make sure that mating surfaces on the rotor, startes clutch and copper plate between them are clean and smooth.
- On EFE engine there should be a dovel pin between the rotor and clutch to take the load off from the bolts. However, the design is apparently screwed up. The pin is too short for the holes and it can slide down to rotor/clutch so that it doesn't make any contact to other side. Stuffing something in bottom of the hole should fix this.
Thanks, no its not big bore etc ,all standard. Will strip down again and double ,triple check surface conditions. I did notice that pin seemed too short to be effective. Will source stronger bolts.
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I have rebuilt the starter on a 1984 1100efe twice now,first time used bolts from local tool and bolt shop, they lasted very short time. Then rebuilt again ( both times had to take the starter clutch to engineers to remove sheared of bolts) only this time I used genuine Suzuki bolts as well as new springs & pins. All put back together with correct torque settings and thread lock. This time it lasted about two months, bike is daily ride. Anyone know why this is happening. I had owned an 86 model before for 13 years aa a daily ride and never once had this issue.
1127 instead of a 1135
in Air Cooled
Posted
I had an efe for about 13 years..loved it..it eventually died and I picked up a cheap 1100F..it was ok..fast but dull as dirty dishwater.The power delivery of the air cooled 1135 is far superior and way more fun ..I swapped the 1100F for a BSA500 A7 and now have another efe. Get the efe engine fixed, it will be worth it