Stumpy
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Posts posted by Stumpy
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Image works at ilkeston will do what you want
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Went today, bikes looked good on the stand
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Had my 750et done in a v@uxhall red with all black stripes for something different and my 1100 standard colours with a decal instead of the suzuki badge,
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On 2/24/2022 at 4:04 PM, busa ash said:
Update pic just sent through , braced arm chain run and shocks mounted so i can use bigger rear width wheel . Will be ready to collect next week
seen it in garage today ash, it looks well
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On 2/3/2022 at 11:51 PM, waterwagen said:
Ring LPM and order over the phone.
Not even answering the phone at the minute, i tried the other day, i need et side panels as well from them
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7 hours ago, clivegto said:
Cheers mate I found it.
I see this up CMC quite a bit, does look well in the flesh
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Seen it on the OSS stand saturday, looked well
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Delkevic seem ok
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21 hours ago, Tony Nitrous said:
Yes. I read up on here about that. Either bore the frame or sleeve the arm. Different but fixable.
I have a 1100 arm that is sleeved to fit a 750, i got it in a load of bits i bought, is it a straight fit in then, thanks
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3 hours ago, TonyGee said:
The 1100 ones dont fit on the 750 frame,
Looking at it quickly it looks like it will need a flat milling on the back near the holes, they will go on as ive seen it done.
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My 1100 ones are alloy and my 750 ones are pressed steel and then chromed, they are rotten so have 1100 ones i will fit
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2 hours ago, TonyGee said:
what !!! for a 1980 gsx 750
Frando sell them, ive just bought them for a 750et im doing
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Ring Michelle at Robinsons, she will confirm or deny
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4 minutes ago, Swiss Toni said:
Cut your stem to required length. Chamfer both ends. Cut your slug a good length. Make it a tighter fit in the lower part, than the upper. Heat lower stem and press in slug. Tight push fit upper part of stem. Fit lower bearing. Fit to frame with upper bearing, seals/covers ect. Hold lower yoke in position, shore up with bit of timber if needed. Tap top of stem down to required length. Strip down and mark slug and top stem in case it gets knocked and moves. Check marks before welding. If slug is a good length and tight fit, weld shouldn’t pull it out of line. Don’t get it too hot to be on safe side. Dress the weld if you feel it will interfere with lower bearing removal. If it won’t, leave it alone! The spacer below the lower bearing may be a quick/easy fix but, in my opinion it looks crap!
Yes looked crap, was on for 24 hours before being done properly
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1 hour ago, eightball_hotrod said:
that is the easiest and cheapest way
seen it myself on a german kat meeting and want to do it myself
just did´nt do it because i got the chance of buying a bandit yoke with the conversion for silly cheap money
There is the spacer in the picture, was going to have it done but didnt look right
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8 hours ago, suzuki11e said:
i was thinking about that. shorten and put a sleeve in side of it.
Does it have the strength ?
Cheers
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Its been on my turbo ET for a couple of years no problems
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mine was chopped and welded. i have seen them with 18mm spacer under bearing as well
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mine from eblag
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I know Jim King has one but i dont know if he is on OSS
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Its sorted now, wire in light must have been wrong way round, changed wire in plug and all ok
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It could be, ill have a look later,hope not though, itll be hassle to return i think to chyna
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Mine arrived today, tried it last night and needs wiring changing a bit as both low/high beam on together, no biggie i dont think, good fit though
Awesome Turbo bike pics
in Forced Induction
Posted
Peter Hallams Katana