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fredbcj

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Posts posted by fredbcj

    Running on 3 cylinders on idle

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted

    gsxr1100 m ,i have checked valve clearances,compression,changes ht leads ,cleaned carbs ,  it runs fine until slow riding when it will bog down then run on 3 , open it up and it coughs like a 2 stroke ,clears then takes off, 

    i am thinking blocked pilot or more likely i think ,perished O ring round the float valve seat ,would it flood a bit ,the plug on this cylinder is black on the electrode,

    any help ,pointers would be greatfully recieved,cheers fred

    16 sold a horse bought a x7

    in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes

    Posted

    i`me getting drunk and reminiscing ,i sold a horse that was given to me as a foal ,to help my mum       ,i bought a x7 with good intent with the spare £200 ,1 rd shock was cheaper than 2 hagons so i put a loop in ,see the white in the clip ons that`s sulpher from the galvanized tube ,i still use a mitatoyu vernier i bought when i was 17 for 39 quid as we re machined the head ,i wish i had more photos

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    • Like 3

    Shed built bike frame, welding T45 to bright mild.

    in Trick Frames

    Posted

    nlovian was spot on with No5 ,treat the welding sequence like a bolt down routine on a cylinder head to cheat distortion,locking the joints first top on same joint left n right ,then bottom left n right ,then oppose welds as you go.areas like swing arm pivot areas it`s easier to pull the frame in ,so a tad more on the outside first means with the shrink you can keep the gap ,and if it does go wrong it can be relieved

    2 stroke cones from a simple cone layout program

    in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes

    Posted

    i was asked to make some expansion chambers to other peoples design a few years ago, once you have measured and drawn your original pipe ,then you can do any alterations (like take 30mm out the header,make the belly narrower,ect ) always handier if the bikes in front of you ,i cant work everything out  so i used  http://download.cnet.com/Cone-Layout/3000-6677_4-10551691.html ,same as anything the more accurate your drawing the better the info you put in, basic is inlet dia and angle ,centre length ,exit dia and angle ,once you make one bit you can save it to a dxf file for any laser cutting firm or print out a paper template and superimpose it on the sheet you need to cut ,the hardest  part is keeping track of the bits and marking parts before fabrication ,sharpies are better than sticky labels ,t250 was handcut and rolled and brazed before i had a tig welder ,kr pipes was coppied from jim lomas pipes then adapted (more under the motor,dont burn the fairing,developed for 35mm carbs ) and laser cut at a old firm i used to work for ,if you can picture it in your mind it can be made,

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    • Like 3
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