bruteforce
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Posts posted by bruteforce
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There's MOTUL semi-synth in it now, went on a 30 mile trip to @Rene EFE 's place to see if all three bikes fitted onto his trailer (they did). I still have some slip on boost but it certainly is a lot less. I will see if the trip to Cadwell will "rinse" the plates enough not to replace them.
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I do want new plates but some report it will improve with just an oilchange. I want to isolate if the oil fixes it or the change of plates.
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Thanks very much for your thoughts and replies guys!
The main theme I read here, and that people with high-power-bike experience keep mentioning is: Bad choice in oil. Some particularly mention Castrol Power RS as one of the oils that sooner or later caused clutch slip. Others never had problems with this oil. I went to a buddy that runs a bike-service shop close by, and he said having had the same issue with some big-twins (lots of torque). They lost all their clutch problems simply by changing the oil by a mineral type oil- or different brand semi-synthetic oil. I bought some semi-synthetic oil off him that he uses as The Problemsolver in these big-twin cases but also as-stndard in some 4-stroke race machines that he services. As it was a lot cheaper than a new clutch and I needed fresh oil & filter anyway this is a good time just to try and see what happens.
In the meantime I've found a leaking oilcooler hose so had some new ones made at the local hydraulics shop. With the oilchange I will swap the hoses as well, so I can drain the cooler also to get rid of the old oil as much as possible
I will report back to you with the results!
PS: @Viz, FBM told me he same about the oil
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Yes Rene, but was this the result of decent plates or the oil?
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Castrol Power RS, as always, and as advised to me a long time ago by Castrol. But I have always had some clutch problems I have to admit...
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It's coil spring, new Lucas springs fitted. Oil is Castrol RS. Spring spacers are easy enough to fabricate.
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After my new, bigger turbo got fitted the clutch has started slipping again. Actually a good thing as this proves that I've loads more power now.
But this happens despite the MTC lockup with considerable weight on and new clutchsprings. The plates are old but fibres are within spec and steels are straight and the original non-burnt colour.
Do you have any tips or tricks to solve this? Options I'm thinking about are obvious:
-New plates will do the trick? I'm ready to invest but need to make sure this is it
-More weight on the arms, but the bolts are already stacked up with nuts?
-Spacers fitted to preload the springs?
-Extra steel plate, but then the lockup itself needs to be spaced outwards?
Hope you can help me tame this new-found power!
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Weather was great today so I went out on the newly equipped bike. First some slow speed stretches with lots of stops to check the bike for trouble before opening up the throttle.
It starts boosting at 4000 rpm and makes full boost at 6000 rpm. The actuator apparently is a 15psi one which came a bit as a surprise to me! When opening the throttle in 5th at 200kph it will still want to lift the front despite my weight hanging over the 'bars. On private roads ofcourse...
TO DO: Slight oilleak from the left lower side, and I want to fit an extra crankcase breather to the filler cap position. And check all bolts etc.
I LOVE this bike!
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Had to make a banjo bolt for the oilfeed as no-one in my town could deliver one. The braided oil return hose was now an inch too short ofcourse. As I kept puncturing my fingers on the ends of the thing I found it wise to just fit a simple fuel hose.
After a bit of fiddling the wastegate actuator and oil catchtank are no longer fighting over the same space.
Painted top of K&N filter black as it was corroded from lying in a damp shed.
First startup, burning some oil off, turbo turns faster than the vid shows
Now, if it would finally STOP RAINING it would be time to go for a spin...
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Almost ready to run. You know the feeling? You've just spent a lot of money on your bike but it still looks exactly the same as before....
Self-tapping screw on the airfilter is for an additional don't-loose-me bracket.
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Congrats!
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TD05-16G (Subaru Impreza WRX)
buddy is tack welding the lot, then take everything off for final welding. Weather permitting I expect to be riding the beast with "Big Boys" turbo in the coming week.
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Better!
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Previous owner says 1,5bar but "with some lag"
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You wouldn't have another 1052 oilpan in the shed would you? I'd have called you but I figured you're on the Isle.
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As my GSXR 1052 oilpan leaks where it's welded, I'd thought to swap it with one off an 1127 or Bandit 12 that I have lying around. But there's a thingy in the 1052 oilpan, I think an overpressure valve, that the others don't have. Any ideas about what pan might be suitable?
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With the bike all ready and awaiting fitment of the "new" used Subaru turbo, I took the turbine housing off as it needed a different orientation of the core in order to fit the oillines. Then I found this...
Then after some difficult but friendly moments in communication, the seller (who genuinely didn't know) offered to exchange it for a brand new one for a little bit more money.
Well chuffed! Need to do the physical exchange of turbos in the upcoming week.
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Yep, gotta agree with SRR! But you can always upgrade the 1168 to turbo later on by means of a base spacer.
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You won't know until you pull it apart. It'd only find it worth it if it is very cheap.
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Fitting an 1168cc wiseco bigbore will transform your bike into a beast! DO IT!
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Oh and an '88 GSXR750 front end will fit as long as you do a stem swap and relocate lower triple stoppers.
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I've an '80 model GS550 with a GSXR1100 motor in it. It fits exactly as the oilboiler engines were based on the old 550 motor! Only downside is that the motor needs to come out even for as much as a valve clearance check. With a lower teapot 600 engine this might work out better.
I also cut out the frame rails to make room for the chain to clear on a 180 rear tyre, probably won't need that on your bike either.
I used the GSXR motor brackets and made new ones for the two located under the sides of the engine.
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While the new turbo parts starting to dribble in, I rebuilt the engine and already have put it back into the frame.
What I forgot to mention is that during the repairs on the cracked header I saw that the left 2 pipes were white and the other two were black. As I have twin boost compensation pipes (pitot pipes) on the bike, I suspected that these weren't doing exactly the same. So I used some T-s to connect them and went for a ride. No difference, at least the AFR stayed the same. But now I have the header back off again, the colors are identical on all 4 pipes!
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Smaller!? Full power at 5500rpm is OK with me. This one's off a Subaru Impreza WRX
TurboGS and Bruteforce are back
in Forced Induction
Posted
New oil makes the clutch hold better, new hydraulic lines to the cooler has fixed the oilleak.
Was on my way to @Rene EFE when I felt my buttocks clench harder and harder while the AFR was slowly reading lean, leaner, leanest. When it indicated 20 with the motor still purring like a kitten I finally realised that the meter must be at fault. On the way back it indicated faultlessly. Any idea why this happened?
Tesfitting the trailer for Cadwell
Somehow it still has not sunk in yet that I finally have the level of performance in the bike I wanted to reach all these years. It is like a modern high-performance machine: You can ride the 1200cc motor very civilised and smooth on the plentiful torque around town and find ridiculous amounts of RAW POWER when you spool the turbo up.
I now need to fit a new rear tyre as this one has completely squared off leaving those neat rolls of rubber on the surface.
Needless to say I'm a happy bunny.