bruteforce
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Posts posted by bruteforce
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On 2/25/2021 at 6:45 AM, Reinhoud said:
I know my limits, I'm sure someone who knows what he's doing can go faster on my bike, but I don't realy care, I know I'm also not the slowest..
My brother in law got an accident about 8 years ago, just a stupid accident, misjudged a corner, still on his learner, he landed very unlucky, the results were VERY serious, he's lucky he survived, he still can't walk like before, I always have that in the back of my head..
When I ride my mates GSXR I can go faster on that bike..
Where I live there are corners about every 300/400 meters and going up and down continually, most of the corners you can't see through, when I can't see through I just don't have the guts, like I have troubles lining up the bike properly to take the corner.
Couple of weeks ago my mate and I were in the "local mountains" hair pins and stuff. Because I'm slower then my mate I was up front, going through the hair pins, at one point we got overtaken by other bike riders, when they were in front of me they were only a little bit faster then me, but the antics they did to go that little bit faster, they needed 2 lanes..
10 years ago when the new TurboGS was just finished, I nearly died 3 times in a row within the timespan of a week. I saw that as a sign... My little 550-based GS just doesn't handle good enough to stay ahead of the power. I most certainly cannot ride with modern 600's handling wise. But I kick ass on the straights
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Nice 'n fat bike!
Good to hear you're still on it. Detonation should be avoided at all cost so just a smidge bigger mains maybe? I'd leave the turbo as it is. More top end is silly anyway, only looks good on a dyno sheet, the rush of the turbo kicking in is much more important imho.
Greetings, Marco.
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This was the old aircooled GS from over a decade ago. I never noticed lag, it went like crazy because it had a fairly small turbo and 1166cc motor. It was heavy! Benefits were the fairly easy piping and gravity drain of the turbo. Large plenum meant it was running spot-on right from the start on standard mains and everything. The NewTurboGS is "traditional" turbo-in-front mount. Efi and a larger turbo make for a more controllable bike compared to the old one.
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Go Reinhoud go!
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Agree with Reinhoud and Gixer1460; I started with a small turbo as this would spool up nice and early. I soon found out I was fighting the bike all the time, espesh coming out of corners, when just running around town with my buddies. Wheelie/wheelspin (and clutchslip!) madness...
I've now a TD05-16G (Subaru Impreza) and it complements the nice torquey low-down grunt of the 1195cc EFi motor, starting to build boost at 4500rpm. Pootle around when you want, get big wallops of power when you want.
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I've built my first TurboGS back in 2005. As there were no real turbobikes around to compare notes with, I came up with a style that fell in the middle of drawthrough-blowthrough and was inspired by the *cough* Yami turbo design. Turbo under the seat, original headers, relatively easy plumbing.
Benefits: Turbo can gravity drain (no pump or oil pickup return mods), no expensive header welding (just a linkpipe), looks brutal (IMHO), clearly audible HISSS from under the seat, proper fast!
Downsides: Presumably the exhaust gases can cool down along the way thus reducing power. Solution: Heatwrap. Other than that it could give a little more lag because of the longer header pipes but I couldn't care. Made 210rwhp/216Nm on an 1166cc aircooled motor.
Should have kept it *sigh*...
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About the carb tops: I had one restricted carbtop that was presumably off a German bike (100hp limit).
After removing the caps the offended one showed some kind of studs that the other ones don't have and limit the full stroke
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About €750,- for a NA motor like yours, you will need to mod the tank for an OEM in-tank pump, mod some GSXR600 TBs for correct spacing, and configure it yourself.
Wether the bike is worth it is up to you. Refurbing the carbs is also a bit costly but much easier to do.
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Great vid! "Mikes EFE smokes a bit"
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Done an Efi conversion on my turbobike last year with support of Arttu, great guy, conversion is a huge success that I should've done much earlier.
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On 3-5-2018 at 1:38 AM, latheboy said:
Hi El Gringo,
How many pitot pipes do you have?
I have 3, 1 for the fuel reg and 1 each for 2 carbies into the overflow
Ø46.8mm ID up pipe and the pitots are Ø6.00mm each.
If you are getting ALL of your boost references from 1 pitot and spitting them over 3 places you might get problems.
I didn't drill my slides when I set mine up, Ø38mm carbs, but I did drill a hole to under the diaphragm .. Ø3.0mm I think... it's been a while.
To me It feels like the drilled slides are large part of the problem
I addition to the info of Mr. Latheboy; I had two pitots for the carbs in 1/4" tubing. My fuelpressure regulator was fitted tot he plenum, as it was on the XJ650Turbo.
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Hi El Gringo,
Got your PM about the carb setup. Although I've changed to Efi because I got tired of boosted carbs, I'll try to help you. Sorry if I'm asking the obvious, I have no time to read all of the 14 pages.
I understand from your message that you have drilled a channel like The Vault has documented for the 41mm GSXR carbs? I never did that on my bike(s). On your bike I'd start off with as standard carbs as they come. Check float heights and that's it to start with.
Anyhow, if the engine falls flat on its face right at the point where the turbo starts building boost, then your dynamic boost compensation for the floatbowls is failing. Dynamic boost comp is about the pitot tube(s) that you need to fit into the compressor feed tube that goes to the plenum. If you don't have these fitted, or you haven't got this right, it won't work.
When your fuel pressure is too low, it won't fall flat on its face right after boost, but it will gently run out of petrol after a while cuz the floatbowls are running empty.
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Stop worrying... fit Efi like I did and never look back
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In the meantime I've discovered that the original crank end covers that were strengthened by some thick alu plate welded on, have warped and are weeping oil. Decided to bite the bullet and buy NRC covers at buddy Pepijn Quists' webshop.
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22 minutes ago, MeanBean49 said:
If your going with the 1st pic, i would recomend not putting anything on the rear footpeg hangar. They arent that strong, in a hig speed crash your just increasing how far in the hanger will go. Could end up it damaging the wheel/tyre. I would rather just scuff a seat panel
OK, fair enough, but how do you prevent the exhaust can from being crushed then?
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OK thanks for your comments guys, I just got the bobbins in so will make a start.
I'll place them on the bike as in my first picture, and for ease of fitment loose the bellypan as per red GSXR. I already have welded alu plates on the standard crank end covers so the combi with the bobbins should make it a little more crash resistant.
I'll keep you posted!
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Thanks guys. Are these bits of hose a form of exhaust can protection?
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A picture Leblowski found me as example
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I've an '89 Slingshot 750 to do trackdays on. Since I've crashed it at Spa last year, I'm looking into fitting crash bungs-bobbins-protectors or whatever you call them. Reason is that I've enjoyed seeing a H*nd* being ridden off the Zolder track, and that stayed undamaged surprisingly well due to strategically placed protectors.
Now there are several sellers that sell kits for newer GSXRs but not for the '89. What I'm looking for is advice to how- and where to fit them? I'm thinking big ones at the engine mounting points in front of the engine, some smaller on the passenger footrests to protect the exhaust and some on the front cam plug aside the engines' head. I've ordered the set pictured below.
Pictures please?
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I love the trimming that's been done to the rear panels to make it less massive. I'd enter 17" wheels to be able to wear decent 120/180 rubber and a replica top half with side lowers to make it complete.
Lovely buy!
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On 9-1-2018 at 10:07 AM, CockneyRick said:
I understand the logic when it comes to "modding" cos of engine/carb/frame issues & that is fair enough.
However, the one i have has the 4x carb holes totally uneven (No modding can cure that) & as mentioned, the creases from the original shape make it extremely hard to get a good/reasonable fit.
So on that note, i apologise for getting carried away with my dissatisfaction at the product.
And as an addition, i would think that without putting a reflective coating on the front side (not expecting seller to do that) it will be pretty pointless?
IMHO its only job is to keep hot air away from the carbs, in my case more so if waiting in line for the start on a trackday. I see the point of making it reflective but being white it already does reflect heat.
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The heatshield you mentioned from SF services fits well on my ‘89 750. You seem to have a combo of 1100 motor, 38mm carbs with a 750 frame. Understandably it needs some mods imho. The shield needs to be trapped behind the clips, I trimmed the slot for the throttlecable drum a bit wider and that’s it.
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I've built a 1052 into a 1195cc turbo engine using 1127 barrels and Mk1 busa pistons. And I've learnt my lessons. All over the internet there's bullsh*t about all the 1100 engines being the same and everything is interchangeable, and fitting busa pistons will land your CR right where you want it for a turbo. Ofcourse not.
It's true you need to dremel the crankcase mouths out to get the 1127 barrels to fit. It is a bitchin work but do-able if you get the right tools (a good milling tool) and because of all the aluminum shards it is advisable to completely disassemble the engine and rinse thoroughly. Then there's the short stroke of the 1052. This not only means that the displacement with busa pistons is not 1216 but 1195cc, but also that the CR will be very very low like 7:1. So you need to skim the head by about 0.7-1mm (measure deck height first!) to get the CR at 8.5-9 : 1.
I use the standard 1052 head with lapped valves, new valvesprings and all is well. It is supposedly the strongest 1100 turbo engine you can get due to the short stroke. It also has coil clutchsprings so a "normal" lockup can be used.
If I'd do it all again (and wouldn't have 3 1052s in spares) I'd probably be easier to get an 1127 as the CR is more or less OK in one go with busa pistons. You'll still need to skim the head for best results though.
Oh.... And I've tried to turbo the standard 1052 by fitting a spacer under the block to reduce CR. I broke 3 out of 4 piston ringlands trying to get above 0,5bar.... So not worth a try really. However it is possible to buy good turbo pistons for the 1052 barrels and get something like 1109cc. Ask Minxy.
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Awesome Turbo bike pics
in Forced Induction
Posted