b12

I removed the clutch bolt using a rattle gun, removed the gear shaft and heated the area with a small gas torch to burn the oil off, I then cleaned it off inside and out with brake cleaner. I'm going to put it on my trailer and take it to the welder for further advice. One thing that I noticed when looking in the engine from the clutch side is that there is blueing on the last crankshaft counterweight, and a slight bit on the face of the gear. Is this normal? I thought blueing came from getting too hot, the other visible crankshaft counter weight is the normal grey colour. Should I be worried?

So new files, brushes for cleaning and JB weld seems the way to go to use as a thread sealant for the stud after I get it welded. I had a look on google and it's max temp is 260°C. I started the job today. I've removed the exhaust, sump, clutch side cover, clutch springs and plates. I converted the clutch to a GSXR750 (2000-2004) years ago because I wasn't a fan of the standard Bandit diaphragm spring one. Problem is I can find a cheap clutch holder, and my old Bandit one won't fit. I think I borrowed one from a mate when installing it. In the UK they are cheaper (£18) but here in Belgium they are 42€ without post , and since Brexit it' not worth importing once the post and customs are paid. I was thinking of buying a cheap aliexpress universal mole grip type? Or can it removed/installed with an pneumatic impact driver?

Any recommendation for a good sealant for the stud? I've just read that Loctite 577 is only good for a max temp of 150C°, will that be enough?

It's leaking oil out of the threads now as well. Thanks for the replies, because of them I'm kind of forming a plan that'll hopefully save the engine/bike:- -Take the sump off, (and maybe the gearshift shaft/seal). Heat up the area to get the oil to boil/bubble out, then clean with solvents. -Grind the crack back a bit (with a dremel?), clean again and take it to a welder and get the crack welded. -Cut a stud to the right length coat it with sealant and screw it in. Also I've got a couple of questions:- -How do you remove/replace the gear shaft. I've never done it before. Could I just leave the shaft in there and replace the seal after? -What kind of solvent would you recommend for cleaning, would brake cleaner work? -What kind of sealant would be best for threading in the stud, would Loctite 577 work? Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and the advise given. I'll post some pictures of the job (if successful).

I've done something really stupid to my 2nd gen Bandit. I have been working on getting it back on the road after years gathering dust in my garage. I cleaned the carbs, put on new discs and pads, new tyres etc. Today I put back on the old cover by the front sprocket/gearchange, after taking of a trick one I had put on years ago because the electronic speedo didn't work with it. I used the bolts from the trick cover as the standard bolts have been lost (I'll probably find them next week). The bolts must have been longer because I have damaged the threads in one of the holes. The thread has a cracked and it is now oil is leaking from the engine case. I am hoping this can be welded, otherwise it'll mean getting other engine cases and stripping the engine and splitting the cases to replace them. This is well above my skills level. I've had a look and I think welding on the right hand side of the cracked thread looks like it won't be a problem. But on the left hand side there isn't much room, and I don't know if it's enough to get welded. Has anyone experienced this problem before (I might be the first ham-fisted owner on this forum)? . Can it be welded on the left hand side of the threads?

thanks, they look good, just drill and tap the centre holes to the right size (M10 x 1). I've found a couple on the internet could the size be M14 x 1.25 X 12?

I was thinking of making up a couple of stainless cam to cam lines for my B12. Yes I know they do nothing, but I like the look. I'm situated in Belgium. You can't find them here, and after brexit I would have to pay a lot of post and import fees on top of the £80.00 that just Bandits asks for a pair. I can buy all the hardware needed for the lines from aliexpress, but would have to find drill and tap some bolts to mount them. Does anyone know the thread diameter, length and pitch?

Thanks, do you know where I can get the olives? Btw. I didn't know you had to change the brake fluid every year with ally fittings, mine hasn't been changed for years.

Is there a safe way to de anodize brake lines etc. I've de anodized other alu parts using baking soda (sodium hydroxide) but will this damage the rubber in the braided hoses?

Just been reading on the internet. it says that in top braced swinging arms the mounting for the dog bones is on the underside of the arm. On the Bandit it is on the top side, are there any arms with a 28mm axle and mounting for the dog bones on the top?

Thanks, If I can get info on sizes it will help a lot. I think a sleeved down GSXR1000 K1-K2 sounds a good option right now if the pivot is also 220mm wide.

I was more worried about softening up the suspension. It feels noticeably softer with the longer arm on. I like the way the bike handled before. I wouldn't have bought the 1250 arm if I knew it was longer, I thought it would be the same as it looked the same on foto's. I suppose Suzuki wanted to appeal to a more sedate customer with the water cooled bandits. It seems to have gone from a fun parts bin special in 97 to a sensible budget option with the last generation water coolers.

Yes I can, that would work as well. The standard bandit axle was sleeved up to work with the TLwheel, which was OK, but I want to keep the bigger axle as it looks good on the bike.

Sounds good, thanks. Does anyone know if it is just a case of sleeving down a GSXR 750strad/ 1000 K1-K3 swinging arm to fit the bandit swing arm pivot spindle?? Is it the same width at the pivot, the Bandit is 220mm. I don't want to risk buying another swinging arm if it won't fit.

First of all hello again, I haven't posted on this forum for a while. I've been riding a 2006 GSXR 1000, and have left my old Bandit in the garage for 8 years. Now I'm getting a bit nostalgic and thinking of putting it back on the road. The Bandit has a 6" rear wheel from a TL1000R (I think). The standard 20mm axle is sleeved up to fit the 28mm ID bearings of the wheel. I thought a better solution may be to put a 1250 swinging arm on, which has a 28mm axle. So I went out and bought one. The problem is that the 1250 arm is about 60mm longer than the 1200. I don't want lessen the wheelieing potential and soften up the suspension by using a longer arm, but I do like the look of the bigger 28mm axle though. Can the 1250 arm be shortened, to the same length as the 1200 (will it be expensive)? Are there cheaper options to make the standard arm work with the 28mm axle?