Basel
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Posts posted by Basel
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Just seen this
Ive got a partial stripped K3 1000 in the garage, same as K4.
Prompt me tomorrow if I ain’t measured and I’ll get to it.
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All off, thanks for the help guys.
What worked for me was a tiny chisel and tapping it with a hammer to get them to start, only had one that caused issues but it came out eventually.
The soldiering iron method didn’t transfer enough heat even after 30 minutes.
I didn’t use the impact drive out of fear of breaking something.
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Thanks for the input, it gives me different steps, if one doesn’t work move onto the next till I get to drilling a head off.
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Got the engine out of my Slingshot, I’m trying to get the carb rubbers off but every cross head screw is so tight they are on the verge of rounding out.
I’ve tried with a ratchet and a battery screw driver, tried molegrips too but there is little to grip on and they won’t budge.
I thought about using an impact driver but it may damage the head.
Another thought was to cut the rubbers out then get a good grip with some molegrips.
An thoughts would be appreciated. -
1 minute ago, Upshotknothole said:
Not by much. My 7/11 wheel base is maybe 20mm longer than a mid 00s GSXR 750. Busa swing arms are longer and easy enough to extend, but weren't really ever known for being light. I think the 1100w swing arms are longer too, but I don't really know much about the Ws other than the bits I've pulled off to mount to slingshots.
1100W are a good bit longer than the 750W arm in mine.
I was after something a bit different from what I did over quarter of a century ago.
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5 minutes ago, Upshotknothole said:
Unfortunately K series swing arms aren't just bolt on affairs. Usually either the top shock mount needs to be altered or where the bottom linkage mounts to the frame needs to be moved. The swing arm itself should fit, but the pivot spindle size will be different. Easy bolt on setup is the braced 750w swing arm if you can find one, but they're the same length as the stock 750 swing arm, and will give a pretty short wheel base.
Really all depends on how much work you want to do. W wheels will swap right in to your current setup and drop some weight. I've got a K4 1K swing arm in my 7/11, but it required a new top shock mount to be fabricated up. Someone on here was doing brackets that bolt on to the bottom of some of the slingshot frames that allow busa and some other early K swing arms to mount up, but I can't remember which frames they work with. I want to say they worked with the frames that came stock with dual exhausts, but don't quote me on that. Worth searching around for and anything can be made to fit with enough time and money.
It’s all something to think about, I have a 750WP (banana) swingarm but it’s too short, I want it a bit longer (said the hooker to the vicar) so will have to measure up and see what comes up.
mid the 1000 K arm longer than the 750 arms ?? -
On 8/15/2023 at 7:02 PM, Upshotknothole said:
Pretty sure you can get a 6" wheel in there, but you'll have chain line clearance issues. The W wheel is a good upgrade over the stock sling shot wheel just with the weight savings. Newer wheels will drop even more weight, but all of the newer GSXRs use much larger axles that you'll need to make spacers for to fit on the old skinny axles.
If I just bolt in day a GSXR1000 K2 backend do you know if the swing arm will fit inside the frame and if the spindle is the same size ?
This would cure the problem of fitting the wheel if it did all bolt in but give me as I read elsewhere top of shock mounting problems, really I’d just be shifting problems from one area to another.
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11 hours ago, Dezza said:
Yes. Use the correct size JIS screwdrivers. One or 2 screws may refuse to budge so you may have to grind the heads off. With careful application of heat (using an old screwdriver or soldering iron) heat the seized screw, clamp it in a vice, then turn the carb body. You can buy 2litre ultrasonic cleaners for not much cash and they're just big enough to do an individual carb body.
Passed to job over to a mate, I am to heavy handed and would probably smash them to pieces trying to undo bolts Dezza
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3 hours ago, imago said:
Just as an indication on price, the 1100G carbs I cleaned and rebuilt a couple of weeks ago worked out at £100 per carb for parts. That's not including any diaphragms or floats, just 'O' rings, float jets etc.
Thanks for the price (idea of costs) half way to a set of Flatslides plus the rubbers needed.
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1 hour ago, Upshotknothole said:
They'll be close enough that you should be able to ride it to get it properly tuned, but they come with just a standard generic setup. They also tend to be a lot easier to work on than CVs, at least I think they are.
Mine on standard airbox still which must be rare, an engineer mate has my carbs now and is going to have a look at them, if they are too far gone I’ll by flatslides and put individual K&N’s on them.
Obviously I’ll need to get them set up, I’m so out of touch with it all I don’t know how’s about still, I’ll have to Google names, I did use to use PDQ in Taplow near Slough.
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10 minutes ago, DAZ said:
You could have your current carbs rebuilt after being ultrasonically cleaned,but do some pricing up first , as ever the bill soon adds up when you are looking at 4 lots of everything and someone else's labour then price some flatslides. Some will say flatslides every time, for the noise ,the direct throttle response ,but personally I'm not that fast a rider and tbh cv carbs are nice at smoothing things out making it easy plus the flatties have a heavier throttle pull which I would find gets old pretty quickly if you clock some miles. No right or wrong answer just what do you think your use will be Sunday blast to the cafe or daily rider type scenarios
So just a quick one, flatslides will the be fit and ride or need setting up DAZ ?
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I wanted to separate the carbs, am I on the right path thinking that ?
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My carbs aren’t great, one is seized and all chokes seem to be seized too.
An engineer mate is going to have a look at them, if they can’t be rescued what are the options ?
IIRC my carbs are 36mm, so would B12 carbs be an option and then dyne jetted ?
Otherwise RS 38mm flatsides (new with new inlet rubbers, would these need jetting up by somebody on a rolling road ?Can you order new carbs and state what bike they are going onto and they’ll come set up ready to go ?
Sorry for the stupid questions, when I last messed about with this bike it was a lot newer and parts easy to get in good secondhand condition.
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Is it me or as I’m getting older it looks smaller…. haha
The GSXR1100 L has a 5.5” wide rear wheel, it doesn’t look as wide to me as I looked when they were newer.
I remember newer GSXR models did have 6” rear wheel width, my 1000 L is fitted with a 750 WP swingarm, it looks tight like I don’t think I’d get a 6” into the swingarm and clear the chain.
Has a 6” wheel been fitted into a slingshot with slingshot or WP swingarm ?
What wheel would be the one to go for ?
Gsxr1000 k4 frame dimensions
in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes
Posted
Could have sold you my frame