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larry996

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Posts posted by larry996

  1. I'm not looking forward to doing this for the 3rd time. The factory seal never leaked until I rebuild the motor.

    ,......Should I try some high grit sandpaper and lightly sand the bottom and pan?  I don't see any imperfections in the pan nor is there any old Gasket on it.

    Lastly, Could someone chime in for a 1980 GS1000G torque setting for the oil pan? Is it 7 or 9ft pounds?

    Thanks

    Larry

  2. On 10/15/2022 at 11:08 PM, Reinhoud said:

     

    Some aftermarket gaskets can leak pretty easy. The valve cover of the GS gasket is a good example for that.

     

    Ther's a company in the US who sells a pretty decent quality gaskets, see if I can find it..

    Reinhoud, did you ever locate that US company that makes quality gaskets?

     

    BTW, I took my oil pan off yet again. Cleaned it up and the gasket. Remounted it with some RTV.  Damn thing is leaking again!!!

    I bought an OEM and will try that with some RTV to seal it up for good hopefully

  3. Guys,

    I recently rebuilt my 1980 GS1000G, It runs great!  Very happy with the rebuild which involved the head gasket and oil seal internally that separates the gearbox and engine. I had to split the case so everything is back together except this damn clutch is giving me issues. The bike gears are fine, it shifts 1, N, 2, 3, 4, 5th.

    I'm stuck at a point now. When I install the clutch plates and tighten everything down. The center nut is torqued to spec, I bend the washer and then screw in all the springs/bolts to 9 ft pounds. 

    Once I get the clutch cover back on and connect the clutch cable and tighten the cable with the adjustment. I opened the oil entry pour port and look down into it to see if the clutch is moving outwards when I squeeze the cable. I rotated the pinon counter clockwise until it is tight..... can see the clutch pulling outwards but when I try to put the bike in gear and then squeeze the clutch cable the rear wheel will not move. In fact, it's moving the entire crank when I force the wheel forward on the center stand.

    Any help would be appreciated as I am completely baffled here.

    Installation Notes:

    • Plates soaked in Oil
    • New Clutch Cable
    • Reused old discs
  4. 51 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

    If the torques are correct, the pan could have a slight bow in it that the previous gasket accommodated? Pan has to come off to check. If it is bowed then you can try surfacing it with fine emery on a glass sheet or just add a SMALL bead of RTV between gasket and pan to take up any irregularities. 

    Thanks!  question should I reuse the gasket?  Or install a brand new one with RTV?

  5. Guys,
    I noticed that my oil pan gasket is a little wet around the edges after my rebuild of the bottom end and top end. There was a very small bead after sitting for 2 days.
    Question: I used the Vesrah complete gasket kit everywhere on the rebuild and now I'm wondering if that could be it?  

    I checked the torque and they are all clicking at 7 ft pounds.
    Any recommendations on the next steps of what you would do?

  6. Hi guys,

    I just finished rebuilding my 1980 GS1000G. Runs great, but I wanted to do some parts swaps with a VX800. I read that Wraith put a rear wheel from a VX800 on the GS... does anyone know if the entire front end of a VX800 will fit on the GS1000?  Thinking of buying a VX800 parts bike and swapping the rear wheel, brake caliper, hanger, and spacer. Then on the front replace the entire triple tree/forks and front wheel etc onto the GS.

     

    Just looking for feedback or any other experiences on this. If the VX800 front will not work. What will?

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