ApocWarrior
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Posts posted by ApocWarrior
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On 11/12/2021 at 12:42 AM, Arttu said:
Can't remember exact details since it's pretty long time since I have played with the stock ignition system. But I remember for sure that sometimes either of the coils was staying energized while key was on and engine not running. I'm not sure but I think sometimes both of the coils may stay off depending on how the crank has turned. Any way, the coils will get pretty hot if they stay energized for several minutes. I don't know how easy it is to burn the coils this way but I would try to avoid long key on / engine off periods just to be safe.
Clicked like but mean to say appreciate the info.
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1 hour ago, TonyGee said:
i remember seeing this problem many years ago, turned out to be the coil. not saying this is your problem though.
I replaced the coil still had same voltage draw. I said screw it and fired the bike up with one dyna coil runs fine, synched and tuned carbs.
Turned off bike and both coils felt fine.
In hindsight, it is possible to have an energized coil with an ignitor. My other coil was probably breaking down and couldn't handle being energized for 4-5 minutes. I'm also assuming either 1-4 or 2-3 will be energized with key on before starting
Thanks for taking time to check it out. Sometimes a member will say something that keeps you on track.
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13 hours ago, Arttu said:
Yes, sounds like faulty ignitor. But to be sure you can still try to crank the engine few revolutions while everything is connected and see if that changes the results. If I recall correctly the ignitor may keep one coil constantly on like that if the crank stops at some specific position.
I knew points ignition caused problems, but I've never heard of that with electronic.
I'll rotate the motor and try again. I'll let you know what happens.
Up to now been using stock old coils .
I'll probably put the dyna coils on.
I like posting odd occurences, surely someone later will have a similar issue.
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I think my assessment is correct but interested in feedback.
Complete motor and harness from a 1982 Katana 1000.
Had tank off and key on, smelled something. Touched left coil and hot as hell. Turned off key.
Used volt meter at battery.
Unplugged both coils, tuned on ignition. No drain. Plugged in right coil leads, no drain, plugged in left (1-4) coil and instantly dropped voltage over 1 volt.
I unplugged crank sensors, same result.
With everything plugged in and key on drops volt as seen, then unplug ignitor lead, load disappears.
Assuming ignitor bad since it only drops voltage on left coil.....your thoughts or if you've seen this before.
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Dang, I wish my gsxr1000 BST's, fit my Katana, those wheels look great on your bike.
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Nice job, lots of people have no idea how much time you have invested.
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82 went to the rounded tank, but for 81 I believe that's all we got here in the States.
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I had purchased a rolling chassis was advertised as gs750.
Turns out it was 1100 with basket case 750 engine parts.
Installed spare Katana 1000 4 valve motor, GSXR front end.
The swingarm I found on evilbay.
80 usd
Pivot assembly 25 usd. I had a spare 07/1000 rear shock.
The swingarm to frame bolt is smaller on the GS.
I used swingarm spacers from a Bandit 1200 conversion kit.
Luckily same size.
This made the swingarm width 1/8" wider on each side.
I took my saw all and cut both inner bolt mounts almost flush with inside of frame.
I cut off original rear master cylinder mounts, front and rear battery box mounts and replaced both with 3/4" steel pipe with a cross brace for top shock mount.
Lower pivot mount I made, but required cutting off left center stand mount.
The right center stand mount stayed and was also welded too for more support.
Top shock bolt placement was critical for shock to swingarm clearance.
Still going to add a couple more supports for top mount plates made with 1/4" plate steel.
It seems shock spring is very close to correct for me as well.
Originally thought I'd use a 2005 gsxr600 5.5" rim, but the center or wheel with carrier outs wheel center too far right.
Ordered a 93 gsxr1100 wheel straight spoke and carrier on the cheap.
Painted black it should match pretty well and get centerline back to the left.
Thought I'd add here for anyone interested.
I use a 75/25 argon mig if curious. I always try to add more strength than I think is necessary.
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What kind of afr are you seeing when it seems to fall off?
I still need to verify my fuel pressure at boost.
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On 10/16/2021 at 2:27 PM, Gpz1100_Convert said:
only added because I'm dead pleased with daves work. nice bit of polishing by a mate too. Them were good chips and pickled onions that day
I'm in Texas and it's great seeing all the different styles in the UK and abroad. That's a great looking ride. Super clean build.
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I'm in for a road trip on anything like that, but I'll figure something out. Thanks.
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I've had a rough time finding the spacers/extensions when using the Bandit 1200 motor in my GS11 project.
I had some made in the past with a guy in the Nederlands.
Lost that contact.
Any help appreciated.
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On 10/2/2021 at 1:32 AM, Reinhoud said:
I bought a 1238cc big bore, new JE pistons, new sleeves, never used. Con rod snapped, wrecked 1 piston.. and more..
JE has a service that they can make a copy of a piston. But the minimum is 2 pistons. The piston I send was a JE piston, but for some reason it didn't have a serial number in them.
The "exact" copies I got were 10 grams lighter and 0.05mm bigger and the oil ring groove was overlapping the hole for the wrist pin. So no full support of oil ring
I complained about this and they send me 2 other pistons. Never tried the rings on the pistons because of this.
I used the old piston rings because they had only done 3000km, cilinders bored up and honed, ring gap a bit was bigger, but took the risk.
Old piston rings fitted just in the grooves, they were a bit tight.
Took engine apart to balance the crank, had marks in cylinders, had them honed, and the rings were a bit tighter in the grooves.
Deceided to get new rings hoping they fit better in the grooves and getting a proper ring gap again.
New rings won't fit in the grooves, rings do fit in the grooves of the old pistons.
JE doesn't make rings, they get them from Total Seal, these rings come from Total Seal.
There aren't variations in 1.2mm and 1.5mm thicknesses, it's just that or a complete different size.
JE fucked up twice.
Even though that sucks, it's good for me to know that shzt doesn't just happen to me.
I think the whole world is making mistakes right now. People are so stressed , my air conditioner repairman ordered me a new blower and the order got lost.
My lawyer filed a wrong paper for tax and now more problems.
I think there's something to it.
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And the biggest reason it was used , was to reduce engine width and weight.
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Big thanks. That's just good news to me. I've got another low miles 1200 motor about to tear down.
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Any information is appreciated.
Picked up some 2000 Hayabusa pistons and rods.
My question is actually ring related, since the Hayabusa was a chrome bore and my Bandit iron . Can the Busa rings be used?
I'm suspecting I would have to buy a specific ring for that.
Any input of how much more boost I can run afterwards?
Currently at around 8psi.
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82 Kat with 1200 Bandit motor.
ProBoost turbo kit.
Schnitz Racing ,
gear scavenger
The Bandit motor sits almost straight up in the Bandit frame, but converted to GS it lays forward quite a bit more.
This lowered the drain to below oil line.
1st installed scavenger pump, I could see the return oil running down the sight glass but come to find out pretty quick that oil was still getting onto charge pipe and BOV.
After reading here, I took a restrictor from another turbo around .080" inches. (Journal bearings) and gave it a run today.
Afterwards pulled BOV nice and clean (could have just looked at my left knee instead) but made sure tube was dry.
ProBoost insists their original design works for Bandit and I believe them, just not with my set up.
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On 9/14/2021 at 10:25 AM, Wee Man said:
Well it runs! Had to play around with the shifter time, it was at factory default of 100ms, knocked it down to 50ms. All seems sweet. I've not played around with anything else, as I've not a clue what I'm doing with it. Leave that for Nick at Allspeeds to see if it needs tweeking when it's back at his for a setup session.
One thing I did notice was the rev counter reads about 500 rpm more than the test function asks for.....bloody jap pish
I had an Anatorri, it was about 70ms.
You can put it in top gear with clutch in, at around 4k rpm and pull up on the shifter and hear the ign cut.
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8 hours ago, Jmckechnie said:
Mean looking ride @ApocWarrior
Thanks man, been a 3 year build.
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Lots of good looking bikes here.
I'm new here. Still working on my 82 Katana with a 1200 Bandito motor.
ProBoost kit, my turbo seems to sit lower than if it were in the Bandit frame, installed scavenger pump still getting oil in my charge tube and BOV.
Work in progress.
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Compressor surge, bad for carbs?
in Forced Induction
Posted
It seems like a "what you can get away with" scenario.
Until my piston swap, I'm at 8psi and I don't even want that much banging throttle shut.
Stock carbs have semi porous plastic slide material compared to most car's metal butterflies.
I say if it causes turbo wear, reduce it.
Just my impression.