zookrick
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Posts posted by zookrick
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Ok, I didnt think of that since it only misfires on one cylinder.
I have a 37.5 pilot jet (stock) with mixture screws at 2 turns maybe I will try a 35 pilot and 3 turns.edit: those are fuel screw not air screws so I need to turn them in, they are already at 2 turns, so 1 1/2 or 1 1/4 turns?
1 3/4 is stock but this bike is far from stock.
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So, my GSXF 750 teapot misfires after fully warmed up at idle and below 2-3000 rpm. Idles cold just fine.
It takes about 20-30km for it to get warm/hot enough to misfire. I only let it idle when syncing it just the way I synced my GS carbs and never had a problem. Do need to take it for a long ride before syncing it or is there something else going on here? Ignition is fine, has dyna coils and relay mod.
I have gone through the carbs over a dozen times making sure they are clean.
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I had the same problem with overheating so I installed a couple of fans on the oil cooler controlled by a switch on the handlebars. Also put in a oil temp sensor.
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46 minutes ago, Rene EFE said:
Welcome to the world of OSS; everything fits everything. If not, bring a bigger hammer.
LOL
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2 minutes ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
Yes
ok, cool, thats another thing i dont have to worry about.
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So, I have an '89 Teapot 750 that I am putting a '90 gsxr 750 engine in. Will the sprocket cover from the teapot fit onto the gsxr 750 engine? It has the shifter pivot on it.
The '90 750 engine will have the long stroke bottom end with the short stroke top end for a displacement increase.
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The problem for me is traffic jams in the summer that you have to go through to get anywhere decent. I was in a bit of one a couple days ago, the temp gauge showed 110C I turned on my cooling fans and it never got any hotter than that.
How hot oil temp is too hot so that the oil cooks itself and breaks down?
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On my bike they are not accesible there are frame rails right next to it.
Thats where I wanted to install it in the first place.
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The sensor kit is a Koso brand
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I installed the sensor yesterday. I thought of using loctite, but with all the oil on the threads I didnt think it would do any good. Being able to use a torque wrench on it would ease my mind but not possible with the sensor sticking out.
Really nice to be able to see what temp the engine is running at. I wired in some fans on the cooler so when I get stuck in traffic I can turn them on and cool it down and not barbeque my oil.
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Well a used replacement would be better if shipping is not too much. I am located in Canada.
I ordered a crank off fleabay, but it is unusable for me and not worth the shipping cost to send it back, which is frustrating.
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The bearings are all toast, I will be buying new ones, probably would use one size smaller on each to make up for any material removed.
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I have a '90 GSXR 750 crankshaft that is chewed up some, picture included. Is this too far gone or could it be polished without opening up the bearing clearances too much?
The top journal I have worked on some with a shoelace, 400 grit and wd40. the bottom one is pretty much the way the rest look.
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If I could make one I would. But I dont think I can with a handrill and a vice.
I found an adapter made out of aluminum, but I am not sure putting an alu plug in an alu pan is a good idea. Might vibrate loose??
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I want to put a temp sensor in my oil pan sump plug.
I need to find a source for a 1/8 npt to 14x1.25mm ( sump plug thread?) adapter.
I have looked and googled all over and cant find one. Anyone know of a source for the adapter?
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I stumbled across some 79mm short stroke 750 pistons (876cc) (Wiseco/JE?)
Anyone heard of these or ran some?
I would be worried about hanging that much weight on the rods.
I was thinking of some cut down 1100 sleeves in a 750 block
I am wondering if the top case would have to be bored.... -
Those letters are the codes for bearing sizes. You use them along with the letters on the crankshaft to determine what size(color) main bearings to buy if you need new ones. Codes are on the crank and rods for rod bearing sies as well.
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What grit hone is good for oil cooled cylinders? The top ring is chrome right?
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2 hours ago, Loud said:
Did you use the original airbox for the motor? One of the things that I love about the bike is being able to see the carbies, I've read that the short stroke motor can develop flat spots that aren't easily tuned out if the airbox is removed.
Yes, I am using the original airbox right now, if I upgrade the carbs I might go to pods.
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If you want a real revvy top endy engine go for the 750 short stroke. I have a Teapot 750 with a header, GSXR cams, ported head and it screams, reminds me of my RM125 dirtbikes when I was a kid.
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Does the '90 750 head have raised intakes like the short stroke heads?
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What manifolds do I need to put 36mm carbs on a '90 gsxr 750 that has the big 38mm boots?
Can I just use different clamps and tighten them real good? 750 teapot manifolds? or some other ones?
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I am thinking of buying a say what now!? 1052 for my GSX750F Katana.
I have a few questions.
What starter and alternator would I need for it? Would the ones from my 750F work? I also have a '90 GSXR750 engine, would those work?
The clutch, Can I use the cable operated clutch from the 750F?
Short Stoke Big Bore
in Oil Cooled
Posted
There used to be +3mm overbore pistons available for the short stroke 750, also 1mm overbore ones, by wiseco.
There are still overbore pistons available for the long stroke version, made by JE.