berty
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Posts posted by berty
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hi all .
Dyna s install
cylinders 1 and 4 timing marks clear on plate Vertical line then T , Vertical line then F , 1.4 then vertical line.
| T | F 1.4 |
static timing onto vertical line next to F done
however - marks for cylinders 2 and 3 -
only marks on back plate are one vertical line followed by 2.3 with no other vertical lines
| 2.3
Dyna s unit came with modules undone, and want to get cylinders 2/3 firing time correct.
Any pointers?
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Yep done all the usual checks , carbs bang on . and knock stays when clutch in .
Leave engine until cool and knock disappears - most annoying !!
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hi all. seemed to have picked up a knock when engine hot. no unusual noises when engine cold.
any ideas ?? or experiences of same
1170 et
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On 25 April 2017 at 4:20 PM, Solcambs said:
Have a look at my build thread ... essentially a 750 frame with an 1100 air-cooled in it. All mounts were standard except the bottom mount which was offset to the rear and required an L-Shaped mount making up.
Anyone able to make some of these mounts up - for dollar ?
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some great advice I recon . And v useful pictures . Big thanks
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Hi all - been a long time .
So without spending £300 - can anyone recommend an oil cooler to suit my 1170 et . I have a 1150 cooler kicking around but it looks a bit small for the job .
I have the correct cover to suit oil re-routing from front of engine etc etc .
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EFE D CAMS PRESUMABLY LIKE HENS TEETH. ANYONE HAVE THE SPEC OF THEM
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anyone had experience with the two types available from kent cams - street type and race type.
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time for some new camshafts into the 1170ET.
Plenty to choose from - so some advice required please.
am running rs mik 36's , standard newish valves, good condition rockers, foam filters, mid range stacks.
Any experience advice out here please.
Am not looking to make it go bang .
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On 6 September 2016 at 10:52 PM, arnout said:
Leaking head gasket I reckon.. Look for carbon deposit marks on mating surfaces..
Cannot find any fault with the gasket - but will be changing . ( wiesco metal type - faces were machined flat about 3000miles ago , and still check out flat )
have now however noticed - worn rear cam guide - which would I think explain the noise at temperature . And the rings on the cylinder in question look to have slid round to be in line . I set them up at opposites on the original build .
Going to use the opportunity to replace both cam guides and give the valves and Pistons etc a bit of a shine .
fingers crossed the decoke and ring spin will perhaps deal with the comp .
Anyone else had ring gaps line up to do this ?
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On 6 September 2016 at 0:13 PM, skelly said:
Did you check the valve clearances before you stripped it ?
Yep clearances were the first thing after compression check . Cheers
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Cheers kikat . I shall give him a shout .
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Yep already in that process .
Valves good , barrels good , rings good , small ends good , big ends feel good .
The hunt continues !!
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Hi all .
I see there are several suppliers / prices out there for rocker arms .
I have tried on here to get some good used but no joy .
So am thinking I may push out the boat on an engine I am building , and go new .
Any recommendations please on suppliers / experiences .
Cheers
berty
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Fuck bugger shit !!!!!!!
Coming home tonight and hmm a funny top end noise . A mile from home ,so off and push .
let her cool right down . Fired up fine - no funny noise at all .
But soon as up to temp - noise back again .
just done a compression test -
1.156
2.155
3.95
4.158
wet test taken no3. Up to 125
so recon busted ring .
any thoughts from any others had this experience .
gsx1168 et
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Same brakes .
750 forks 35mm, 1100 forks 37mm
1100 frame additional brace across front of cradle .
clocks different .
wiring loom different but not by much
all I can think of ATM
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That would explain it . Cheers all .
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Vapour blast and keep clean afterwards.
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2
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Hi all . Just looking through some old boxes and noticed I have two different types of clutch basket (outer) for an 1100et .
One has a complete outer face which houses the plates . And the other has slots down the side for the plate teeth to sit in.
Any ideas why there were two types ??
Cheers
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Never had much success forcing in seal . So have always split cases to avoid any damage . IMHO
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Have a plan now - all will be revealed !!
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35 minutes ago, Nigkat said:
Just a word of caution, if you lap it too much you can reduce the clearance for the starter clutch and it will lock up once the rotor nut is fully tightened.
This is my main concern with lapping.
Good to get some views coming back .
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1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
I second the grinding paste option - get both surfaces nice and uniform grey and matt finish. Then windy gun the crap out of the bolt. A more drastic solution is use diamond dust impregnated grease used by Ford to secure non keyed cam wheels to camshafts - the diamond dust locks them real tight!
Interesting - diamond dust grease. Must admit - have never heard of that .
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4 hours ago, Jonboy said:
I would try lapping the rotor onto the taper if it were me. Wouldnt take much of a mark or dig or ding on either the rotor or the taper to stop it sitting correctly, problem too with it spinning means there may also be some marking caused by that action.
Yep got a few marks going on !!
timing marks plate gsx1100et
in Air Cooled
Posted
Will head scratch . cheers