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Malone

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Posts posted by Malone

  1. Thanks for the replies, perhaps it’s a home made bit for when it had a 4 into 1 Vance & Hines on it?  I’ll put it on the sidestand and see if there’s an issue with the centrestand. 
     

    of course it could be the fluffle valve strap, I hadn’t thought of that as I thought it was an option.  I’ll check. Cheers. 

  2. The Katana rebuild is well under way now, but I’ve got a part left over. It was in the box of bits, is it something I should be aware of? Clearly it’s a stop of some sort, but what? It’s about 6 inches long with a rubber bit  

     

     

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  3. It’s fixed. Some nice oily emery tape helped to remove the nasty high spots, and a finger wrapped with the same tape gingerly inserted into the rotor itself did the same. So, I reassembled it all and whizzed it back up - sorted. :tu

    just waiting for a new gasket to arrive and it can go back together again. 

    • Like 2
  4. not at all, I’m pleased you didn’t go OH SH*T NO!
     

    I just hope I don’t lap it back too far........ :S

    oh, and the fact that the nut was tight, and the rotor was able to spin, it could be I will need to add a spacer/shim to the nut side to get it to do up further. 

  5. Thanks guys. Typically, it was bleedin’ obvious innit, as soon as I put a whizzy gun on the crankshaft nut. First of all it was f-tight as to be expected, in fact I had to go out and buy a new impact wrench just now before attempting removal. 400nm was no match for that nut. It spun off, followed by the rotor immediately afterwards. Oh dear, that lovely smooth taper is no more, it’s not a nice state. Now where’s the grinding paste? I haven’t used that stuff for 30+ years. 

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  6. OK, I’ve opened it up. Removed the outer cover that holds the stator. Inside there is the starter drive gear, twin idler gear on a shaft and then the main drive gear inboard of the rotor. 

    firstly, the large drive gear can revolve separately from the rotor in one direction, as I would expect the sprag drive to do. And then won’t in the other which would allow the starter to drive it all. 
     

    why is the whole rotor unit able to revolve separately from the crankshaft itself? I was under the impression the rotor was tight on the crank by way of a taper, according to the Haynes manual (sorry, it’s all I could get my hands on) 

    I was expecting the rotor to be solid on the crank, and then perhaps the 3 bolts holding the sprag unit onto it to be faulty 

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  7. 1982 Katana 1100. I don’t know the history of this engine, but I’ve just put a battery on the partly rebuilt bike to start to check the wiring. I pressed the starter button and the startermotor spun without showing any attempt to turn the engine over. I clicked it a half dozen times and each time I can hear the starter spinning but not contacting anything. The final time all I got was the solenoid clicking. This is using a fully charged battery. If I remove the left engine cover will I see the starter sprag system?

  8. The project Katana I’m pulling to bits hasn’t got any keys at the moment, they’re in the process of being ‘found’. That’s not a problem as I have removed the seat and fuel tank from underneath. What I’d like to do if possible is see if I can get it to run in the absence of the keys.

    unplugging the loom off the rear of the ignition switch there is a 4 terminal plug with 5 wires. Red. Orange. Brown. A doubled green

    Red is power, and if it is connected to the orange then I get life on the dash. What are the others and can I use them to power the starter button? 

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