TonyC
-
Posts
16 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by TonyC
-
-
I once fired up a GS750 engine with the timing 1 tooth out - managed to to get away with 1 bent exhaust valve - must've had tighter clearance than the others!
Much later in it's life the compression had dropped below 100psi and I remember it was a bitch to start but then would run OK - got through loads of oil as well. Solved the issue with a GSX1100 lump!
Good luck with it.
TonyC
-
1
-
-
I think it will work!
I fitted the Piranha optical set-up that was on my GS750 to my GSX1100 motor and it worked fine. (the Piranha uses the original back plate and the mechanical advance)
I now have a Dyna S ignition (which doesn't need the ignitor), still with the GS750 backplate.
Regards,
Tony
-
I've got a unit off a GS750 on my GSX1100 motor - seems to be work OK and fitted straight on.
TonyC
-
If the bike seems to to run OK at 3000 rpm but runs poorly below that I would suspect that you still have a blocked pilot/bleed jet. At 3000 rpm the fuel will be metered by the needle jet and the mains, which being big holes are unlikely to block! Below 3000 you are in small jet territory. I would suspect the small jet behind the rubber bung/plug next to the main, it's very prone to blocking, especially if your rubber plugs have been hardened by the ethanol in modern fuel.
Hope this helps.
TonyC
-
1
-
-
Have you checked the carb diaphragms? If they're split, the main jets won't open fully.
-
Could also be a late GS550 (c1984?). They had the cap on one side and also a fuel gauge sender, if I remember correctly.
TonyC
-
I have re-consulted my ageing brain on this one - the steering lock on the GS750 should be on the RHS of the bike and bolts up underneath the bottom yoke so the pin comes up through the yoke when engaged. The ignition lock operated one was on a late GS550 that I had. It's possible that you could have no lock if the bike doesn't have the original/correct yokes on it.
Tony
-
On the early ones it's bolted to the steering head/bottom yoke LHS, but some very late ones had it operated by the ignition key IIRC!
Tony
-
I went for GSX600/750 forks and yokes as the stem length was OK and just needed a bearing swap to fit. Can't remember what the bearings were though - it was about 10 years ago! Did have to cut the steering lock stop off and weld it back on. TC
-
Hi Martin, the GSX 600 forks in the pic were a little soft, so I simply increased the preload with some longer spacers. I've since replaced them with some slighter later GSX750 Showa forks which seem OK as stock. I haven't really used it much lately, I'm ashamed to admit!
Regards, TonyC
-
Great bike, Martin! I still have cuttings of it in my 7/11 file! Good to see that it's still looks fantastic!
Regards TonyC
-
I've used Recoil sets with no problems on GS750 and GSX1100 valve covers. I think the wire insert is slightly thinner than Helicoil, so you get away with drilling a smaller hole - handy if there's not too much metal around!In view of comments below, I've had another look at my packs of inserts and have to conclude that my pack of 'Genuine Helicoil' 6x1 inserts must contain the wrong inserts - no wonder I had so much trouble with them!
Tony
-
1
-
-
Thanks Guys!
The exhaust is a stainless Predator, weighs a ton, but it's survived a couple of slides down the road! I've had it a few years - originally on the 750 - it just fits the taller 1100 block. It's on the 'wish list' for something sportier!
TonyC
-
Hi Guys,
Thought I'd share a recent pic of my '77 GS7/11. It's very straightforward, no frame mods, stock 1980 GSX1100 engine and swingarm, '88 GSX600 front end with a GS500 front wheel and a Bandit 600 rear with GS500 sprocket carrier. I've had this bike for 19 years now and have gradually modded it as things wore out or got trashed! All in all quite a nice bike to ride.
Take it easy!
TonyC
-
9
-
Keys
in Air Cooled
Posted
I have successfully reconfigured GS locks so that the keys match - if you can remove the barrel by some means (filing off the retaining peg IIRC?) you will be able to remove the barrel and pull out the four levers. I have found that there are usually 2 short and 2 long which can be swapped around to match your key, get it as close as you can and file flush any levers that stick up! Reassemble and secure with a small peg or similar.
Hope this makes sense?
Regards
TonyC