PaulDun
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Posts posted by PaulDun
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12 hours ago, TonyGee said:
thats gona need a bit of spit & polish
Nothing a bit of solvol won’t cure
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I’ve just acquired a 1979 (according to the frame sticker) GS750L. It’s pretty rough and has the cylinder head & carbs missing, strangely I’ve always liked the custom Japanese bikes so I intend to restore it over the next few years as a project to keep me out of mischief
Now I always thought these bikes had the two valve engine in them but this one appears to be the four valve GSX as it has four valve pockets in the piston tops? Both the engine and frame numbers have the prefix GS75X- Any ideas guys?- 1
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22 minutes ago, VJ said:
Book says 94-127Nm. If you want to PM me an email address I can email you the service manual if you want.
That’s fantastic I’ll pm you the email over straight away.
Thank you very much.
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A friend of mine has the 1100G and can’t find any info regarding the torque setting for the rear wheel spindle. My manual only covers the chain drive bikes. Can anyone help please?
TIA, PaulD
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Thanks for that I’ll have a dig around and see what I can find
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1 hour ago, no class said:
that has a cable driven tach .... unless Suzuki made a special model just for you .
No mate the speedo is cable driven but the tacho is electronic
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5 hours ago, Fazz711 said:
1100 Katana.
Doesn't that have a cable driven tacho?
If so won't be an electrickery fault.
Check the cable is OK.
Thanks for the reply Faz but the Katana with the combined speedo & Rev counter has an electric tacho
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As I'm a complete electrickery luddite it doesn't take much to stump me
Now I've finally got the bike running the way it's supposed to I'm going to sort the less important but annoying issues out. Number one on my list is the lazy rev counter, it never reads over 4000rpm no matter what, it ticks over at an indicated 1000rpm and blipping the throttle hardly moves the needle.
So is my tacho goosed or can anyone throw any light on the subject.
Please bear in mind that electrickery really is a black art to me :oops: -
1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
Look at Haynes Manual page 89 - picture 22.3a and there is the crosshead in the end of the rocker shaft and on the following page 22.3c shows a bolt being used to withdraw the shaft. I suspect that there should be screws in either end to maximise oil pressure to the rocker bearings as its piss poor at the best of times - so its not a bodge unless its a Suzuki bodge LOL!
Brilliant, thanks for that. I’ve just looked at the Haynes manual and as you say there is a cross head screw visible.
I might put another four screws in to maximise the oil pressure to the rockers, whaddya fink?
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17 hours ago, jameskat said:
Bolt 14 holds the shaft in place and the plug bolt in the head stops the pressurized oil escaping. I think that the thread was there to aid removal of the shaft, Is the other end solid?
No mate both ends are threaded but the cross head screw is in one end only?
the reason I’m concerned is I’ve had to replace the head and both camshafts as they where totalled and after all the other cock ups ive found I want to make sure I don’t have to spend another pile of money I ain’t got
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After stripping my cylinder head I noticed a strange thing?
The shafts the rocker arms run on (no 12 in the attached pic) have a cross head screw and a washer screwed into one end of the shaft on my engine yet the diagram clearly shows none fitted? Is this one of my bikes previous owners bodges or is there a sound reason? -
Keys
in Air Cooled
Posted
My GS750L came with no keys (surprise surprise) but the locks look undamaged so if possible I would like to keep them. Is the key number stamped on the ignition or seat barrel anywhere? If I’ve got the numbers I can order keys for them
It would be nice to keep the original locks and have just one key for everything