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RickC

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Posts posted by RickC

    GSX1100ET rear tyre question

    in Air Cooled

    Posted

    Hi all,

    I'm chipping away at my 7/11 build, I want to keep it sort of original at this stage with the Snowflake pattern wheels.

    I picked up a rear wheel from a 1992 GSX400S which has the snowflake pattern but it's a 4" rim not 3.5" (Thanks John for the advice) it's on the way over from the UK.

    I was probably planning on putting Battleaxes on it but they only go out to a 150mm rear, this is based on my memory of tyres from 30 years ago.

    I think with the 4 inch rim I should be able to get a 160 or 170mm rear on perhaps an Avon or Metzler.

    Does anyone know how wide I can go on a 4" rim before I get clearance issues?

    I'd be happy for any tyre advice, keeping the 19" on the front.

    Cheers,

    Rick

    GS750

    in Air Cooled

    Posted

    10 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:

    @RickCIf your front 'guard is in good condition, give the underside a good clean. Silicone all round the mounting bracket, to stop water & mud getting behind it (this is where they rust). Then,  coat the underside of the 'guard with either Hammerite or a rubberised under seal. Then it'll last for years! (y)

    Thanks Toni, it is in good condition, I wouldn't have thought to do that but it sounds like a good idea.

    GS750

    in Air Cooled

    Posted

    On 9/3/2019 at 8:12 AM, ccroaker said:

    thanks for the offer lad.... but i was kinda looking for a standard one only in chrome ....its not a big deal....i get these mad thoughts every now and again...even the stance on your one with the exhaust seat and front mudguard looks mean and really suits it...it looks fast just parked up...

    I think a chrome chain guard would set your GS off nicely, it would tie in well with the chrome front guard, mounting holes aren't a show stopper - a piece of stainless or alloy and a couple of rivnuts of similar and I'm sure you could get one to fit, BTW I bought one of those chrome GS front guards to hopefully put on my 1100, I like the look of them.

    GSX Alternator rotor nut removal question

    in Air Cooled

    Posted

    10 hours ago, Jonboy said:

    Yes it is, cant remeber which though, but if you have a large billet of something you can make a slide hammer and remove rotor that way. Just make sure you have full thread engagement

     

    Wouldn't the thread engage into the Crankshaft? The Oem tool picks up on an external 35mm thread on the rotor.

    Googled a guy using a screwdriver to apply pressure to the two locating holes one at a time whilst tapping the centre bolt but for the realitively cheap price of the tool, it seemed better than screwing the rotor.

    GSX Alternator rotor nut removal question

    in Air Cooled

    Posted

    Hi All,

    Next dumb question; how do I remove the Alternator Rotor nut off a GSX1100et?

    Can I rattle gun it off?

    I don't have the special Suzuki holder.

    I have a puller set which should hopefully get the rotor off once the bolt is loosened.

    I've tried a strap wrench but it just wants to slip for me.

    Cheers,

    Rick

    GSX1100 clutch basket nut

    in Air Cooled

    Posted

    Hi all,

    I've just removed the clutch basket nut from a GSX1100et with a rattlegun, it came off easy enough.

    I tried using locking plates from another GSXR thread on here but I could not  get them to work with GSX1100et.

    A question for the knowledgeable, can I rattle the nut back on when I come to refit?

    Should I make up the 2 steel clutch plate tool and torque up or is there another way to torque up that I'm missing.

    Thanks,

    Rick 

    7/11 adapter bracket drawing - wtd

    in Air Cooled

    Posted

     

    7 hours ago, baldrick said:

    why not just post up the dimensions?

    from the bottom bolt centres

    I can do that, I have to pull out the 750 engine and finish stripping the 1100 engine down to a bare case so it may be a week

    or three depending on what else I have going on.

    • Like 1

    7/11 adapter bracket drawing - wtd

    in Air Cooled

    Posted

    I can understand using a cad drawing for a “complete” motor mount plate fab.... but just for the lower mids ???    you already have the frame hole centers on your original bracket...,surely you can make the one remaining hole 9_9   or are you just lazy ?

    Yes I could make one, I spent two days making an 15mm thick aluminium dovetail as part of my apprenticeship, but I would rather spend the time on something else, the cost 

    of a pair  water jet cut out of stainless or alloy is well worth me not doing it and I get to support a fairly priced local business that doesn't rip off locals wanting small project jobs done

    in between their larger jobs.

    Wrist pins

    in Air Cooled

    Posted

    Reinhoud,

    I don't know much about wrist pins but the thicker ones may not be stronger as metal technologies developed the lighter 2.5mm ones might be stronger,

    Less weight on the conrod seems to be what modern engines are aiming for.

    Cheers,

    Rick

    7/11 adapter bracket drawing - wtd

    in Air Cooled

    Posted

    13 hours ago, yoshi said:

    hi rick I think the breather box on top of the cam cover is a tight   fit  may need a bit of work on the frame there from what I can remember   

    yoshi

    Yoshi,

    The 1100 engine is tight in the 1100 frame so it wouldn't surprise me if that is the case, Thanks for the heads up.

    Rick

    • Like 1

    Faulty Ignition Barrel - 1980 GSX1100

    in Air Cooled

    Posted

    The solder on those joints don't look like they are doing you any favours, if you have access to a soldering iron, it would be worth going to

    an electronics shop or online and buy some de-solder wick, you place that over the solder and heat from the other side through the wick with a 

    touch of solder to the tip it creates a heat bridge and draws the solder out, clean and tin you wires and put a dot of solder onto your tip and solder 

    on, you want to not move the joint once the right amount of solder has been fed in, the joint should look nice and shiny if it is going to have good electrical 

    properties, clean up with Iso Propyl alcohol if you have it but Metho would do an honest enough job to last for 15 years or so.

     

    • Like 1
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