[GSF 1200 head fit GSXR 1100M?]

Ok thanks for that. I will be running turbo profile cams anyway. So would you suggest buying the profile cams that are advertised as fitting the bandit or the gsxr? You said there is a difference in the cam sprockets? 

[GSF 1200 head fit GSXR 1100M?]

Hey guys, 

I am building up an 1127 GSXR1100M oil cooled motor, I am wanting to switch to the earlier adjustable rocker style head from the 1052 blocks rather than the shim style adjustment on this model.

I am struggling to find a head for sale in Australia, I have however found a good price on a GSF1200 Bandit head with the same adjustable fork style rockers, I just wanted to check if this head would bolt directly to the GSXR bottom end without any mods or issues, and has the same int/exh port spacing ect.

Does anybody have experience with this?

Cheers,

Ryan

[GSXR 1100 Con Rods]

6 minutes ago, no class said:

easier just to put a rocker / tappet type head on than to fuck with machine shops .

are the 1052 heads a direct bolt onto the later blocks?

[GSXR 1100 Con Rods]

1 minute ago, mikeyd said:

Some guys get away with stock rods ups to 300hp (not recommended ) Then they will use water-cooled rods or gen 1 Busa rods, but if its track only , get Carillos - very strong for anything over 250 hp and worth the price, which is bullshit since you can get 8  rods for a chevy for less. I think Crower still makes oil cooled rods to. Have not had good luck with Falicon rods. Worry more about doing a rocker head conversion.

Thanks for the info, I may look at the Carrillo then, not worth the risk. I have looked into the head conversion, is there any threads or info you can point me to for the details of whats involved? unfortunately I dont know of any machine shops here in Australia that deal with older Japanese engines regularly who can assist.

My understanding is that the cams themselves need spacing out to stop lateral play but the fork rockers will slot onto the existing shafts, again may need spacers...

[GSXR 1100 Con Rods]

Hi, I am in the process of building a GSXR 1100 M Turbo street fighter. My question is, does anybody have experience with what power the stock con rods in these 1127 motors are good to?

I am chasing some decent numbers (300bhp) and was looking at Carrillo but wanted to confirm the price tag was warranted and worth it..... Are there any other upgrade options like 493 or Busa rods etc that will fit this engine?

P.S. This bike will never see a road, only track use

Thanks

[GSXR 1100M crank cases won’t split!]

Ok guys, I can confirm that long 6mm bolt holding the second oil tube was indeed the issue and does go through to the top case! Pulled straight apart afterwards. Very annoying since both Haynes and OEM manual do not mention it!!

thanks for all the suggestions and help, hopefully this thread will serve a future first timer in an 1100 pull down! 

[GSXR 1100M crank cases won’t split!]

Interestingly I just found this part photo on mega zip which is different to that in the manual. It shows an extra M6 bolt that’s inside the sump (No 4 on photo) I have only removed the 2 main crank bolts from inside the sump. Can anybody confirm there is an extra M6 long bolt that sits inside the sump footprint?

[GSXR 1100M crank cases won’t split!]

35 minutes ago, fatblokeonbandit said:

you have taken the ignition pick up plate off ???

 

and dont pry the cases apart use the two 8mm jacking points that Suzuki fitted to the cases.

 

Lol yeah I’m doing a full rebuild so there is nothing else left on the engine at all except what I can’t get too until splitting

[GSXR 1100M crank cases won’t split!]

9 hours ago, davecara said:

10mm nuts inside behind the clutch basket?

Yeah got that too

[GSXR 1100M crank cases won’t split!]

4 hours ago, psychodad said:

two bolts under the oil filter?

whatever you do, don't use a hammer and chisel

Yep got those

[GSXR 1100M crank cases won’t split!]

Ok, so I am almost certain I have every bolt out (referenced both Haynes and OEM manual)  including the one behind the clutch and the nut behind the clutch and under the final drive sprocket. The retaining plate over the drive sprocket is off and the plate on the input shaft is off. I have tried both pry points lightly and seen the case separating by about half a mm in that area, but the thing won’t come apart! 

Is there any tricks I am missing here or possible causes? 

Thanks for any advice 

[Cam Sensor for sequential injection]

Hey Gents, Im new here, part way through a 91' 1100 Custom track bike build. 

I will be running EFI and too want to run sequential, does anybody have some example pictures of how they actually incorporated the pin/trigger onto the cam itself?  Would help out a lot.

Many Thanks, Ryan