Meerkat
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Posts posted by Meerkat
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Its a 1991 GSXR1100N with (I 'think' standard sized carbs issued for this model).
I may have another go at the weekend but genuinely cant see how a moulded piece of rubber with an internal 'square' diameter of 62MM+ is going to fit a 'square' edge of max 58mm without concerning distortion. It wouldnt seat nicely (square) when I tried (as can be seen in the image showing how the filter sat at an angle when pushed into place.
I still have the original airbox (& I think rubbers) so may try as Yantosh suggested....
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40 minutes ago, Captain Chaos said:
RU 2922 is the correct one for slingshot carbs. I've fitted many sets in the past, no problems.
Maybe the ones your mate offered you were not new anymore and have been "pre-stretched" a bit?
I know RU 2922 is the correct fitment, my mate had bought them for one of his Slingshot projects but never fitted them as he wasn't at that stage yet. They are BRAND NEW, still in plastic sealed wrap in the unopened box so no chance of pre-stretch.
The size just seems completely wrong as the gap between them pre-tightening is huge and when they are tightened they aren't sitting flush and (as mentioned earlier) trap the fuel pipes more than I would have expected ?!?!?
Weird!
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34 minutes ago, yantosh said:
ram air foam filters on the stock airbox rubbers, used it loads
I'd heard that set up works well, thanks for adding support to this.
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Good evening everyone,
Hope you are all well and unaffected by "CC" (Covid Chaos).
I need advice on the attached. A few people have suggested I ditch the single pod filters and go for dual pods to improve the running, either K&N or Pipercross (or similar).
A pal of mine had a set of the attached which are 'apparently' for the Slingshot and offered for me to try them to see if they improved the running.
However when I came to fit them they were loads bigger (internal ID of 62+mm against the carb outer diameter of 58mm) despite being listed for my model and no matter how hard I tried I could not get them to seat properly. The 4mm of slack just resulted in the flange area miss shaping so bad when tightened they would not sit securely....i could ease them off worryingly easy!
Also seems to pinch fuel line quite a lot.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Mike
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1 minute ago, Jelly said:
Which carbs/engine/etc? What do you mean with a 'rebuild'?
First idea: Is the vacuum line connected from the tap to one of the inlets, is the vacuum still working? Connect some transparent hose to the tap and suck the vacuum on on, see if it pours some petrol.
Thanks for reply.
Standard 1127 engine and carbs. Does have aftermarket system and filters (as per when I bought it). Not sure if its jetted to suit, was 'told' it was on purchase.
Engine not cracked open, rebuild meant chassis etc.
Will look into lines again later tonight.
My puzzle is why it works OK in RESERVE and not when tap is turned to ON ?!?!?
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Hello everyone,
I aint no Gerry Burgess so please be kind with 'words of wisdom'!
After rebuilding the bike I have taken it for a few short runs and unfortunately found a strange issue.
When started (on choke) it will idle and then increase as bike heats up and choke isnt required (as per normal) but when i gradually knock choke completely it dies right at the bottom. Put a few mm's of choke back on and its fine. Then with tap in ON position it tends to bog down and stall again at junctions and without choke isnt interested.
But weirdly with tap turned to RESERVE it runs absolutely fine! Put it back onto ON and it will run but when you ask for more gas it bogs down before clearing its throat and going.....but still wants to stall at standstill ?!?!?!
Everything seems plugged and plumbed in OK with no lines kinked or trapped. AND have replaced with new tap/petcock set up and running fresh fuel.
I know people often say that these bikes run badly with these individual filters (they were on the bike when I got it) but the fact it runs on Reserve is a puzzle ?!?!?
Not sure if it needs some carb cleaner running through it (maybe sea foam as I had great success with that on an old ZRX) or just a bloody good run/thrash to get plenty of fresh fuel going through it (its been standing A LONG TIME!).
Any help/advice appreciated.
Cheers,
Mike
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Cheers Banoffee. Have heard from a couple of ex GSXR owner mates who said same. One had 1100N AND later a 750M and got rid in place of pattern plastic and a carbon. The other guy had 1100L and also fitted pattern plastic without brace. Both reported NO issues.
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Good morning all.
A question for the masses on the subject of the front mudguard under brace/bracket for late 90's GSXR's fitted with USD forks.
Have any of you re-fitted the mudguard or fitted a replacement (possibly carbon) and NOT used/re-fitted the brace ?
It seems a massively heavy (& ugly) piece of future rust that was likely only fitted as a precaution by Suzuki to stop the guard flexing at very high speed (and given the 11's were capable of 170+ thats understandable) rather than is required to support it during normal use.
Whats the general feeling out there ?
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Thanks for reply guys. The dog bones are standard length.
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Hi Guys,
Can anyone advise on this.
My 1990 11 leans way too much for my liking. Its not the shock replacement either.
Any clues ?!?!?!
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I shall now read the rules
Mike
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13 hours ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
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If its bleed properly, Plates are stuck because its been sat, its not disengaging properly, fire it up and hold brakes on and put it in gear, might take a few attempt, but it will free off ..
Thanks for all replies and advice guys. The bleed was done extensively and properly so that shouldn't be an issue. Oil level is high....but not overly. Time will tell when the motor fires up and we see how it performs :-)
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If its bleed properly, Plates are stuck because its been sat, its not disengaging properly, fire it up and hold brakes on and put it in gear, might take a few attempt, but it will free off ..
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Hi Guys,
Apologies for not being more regular on the site than I have in the last year or so. Illness, life, work etc.
I wonder if someone could help with a query I have please ?
After rebuilding my 1990 GSXR 11 (not engine rebuild) I have found that the clutch wont engage properly. When the bike is in gear and the clutch lever is pulled to engage....it still is in gear and wont 'free wheel' ?!?!?
The engine isn't running again yet (another story) but as a rolling chassis I cant understand why it wont engage ? It did before I did the rebuild.
I did drain the engine oil prior to strip down and only recently refilled. Not sure if that has anything to do with it.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike
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Good afternoon all,
The strip down of my 11 project is in full swing and I wanted to pick your collective brains regarding the above.
My question is....does the front mudguard need the massively heavy mild steel brace that sits underneath ? I'm sure Suzuki fitted it to ensure it remains stable and in shape @ 170+mph but I want (read that as need as original is fahoooked!) to buy replacement but dont want to refit brace if its not required ?
My bike will be streetfightered so it aint going above 130-140mph unless my neck muscles can get stronger!
Thanks for help,
Cheers,
Mike
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Darn it!!!!
thanks for advice anyway.
:-)
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To get my post volume up :-)
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As you can see I am doing loads of separate posts...
AIR FILTER/K&N issue
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Thanks for that!!!! I will try it after moving everything and see how it goes.