Sten
-
Posts
70 -
Joined
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Sten
-
-
Well done on the forks strip down; these things are sent to try us eh.
1 hour ago, Dukeman said:The rubber washers under the head bolts... can they be reused?
Also while the carbs are off... should I look at the chain tensioner?
You should be ok to re-use those washers; always a good idea to have some spares though, just in case
Not sure how Gixxers fare with the auto camchain tensioner but on my bike, they have been known to shit the bed - I plan on asking the lads here about this soon.
Some oil-cooled bike owners switch to manual chain tensioners like these :-
https://www.suzukiperformancespares.co.uk/product/ape-manual-camchain-tensioner/272/
-
1 hour ago, Sten said:
I'll bet money that these same disks can also be found on the aliexpress website for less money
Sorry fella, sold out on aliexpress
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32252741810.html
-
Might be easier to find a bellypan for a GS750 or GS1000 - would've thought they could be made to fit without too much drama. A lot of the bellypans I remember seeing in the '80s were sold as universal fitment for big fours.
Front end looks killer; really like the fairing with wrap around mudguard
-
23 hours ago, Neveragain55 said:
I'd love to put these on, but currently there's only one left on E-Bay and apparently the Australian company that makes them doesn't ship to the US:
The seller of these is in China mate (see his feedback page) . Also, in the shipping exclusion list, there's no mention of not being able to ship to the U.S; in fact, shipping to the States is free.
I'll bet money that these same disks can also be found on the aliexpress website for less money
-
This might be relevant too; it certainly lists lots of useful specs for fork diameter e.t.c.
Again, credit goes to the bloke who put this lot together
-
17 hours ago, Poldark said:
I like the rotors on the links you provided, but not the costs. For that much I can upgrade to more modern wheels, brakes, and suspension with salvage parts.
Wise words there and had it not been for cash flow being a bit hit and miss, that's the route I would've taken. It definitely cost more to get my fork legs overhauled than it would've been to get a more up to date complete front end
3 hours ago, Neveragain55 said:I'll look into that and do some research on it.
These attachments might help you out with that; credit goes to whoever compiled 'em
Think this was saved from the old OSS forum; maybe someone here has a larger version they could share?
-
-
3 hours ago, IceKat said:
Great result
Thanks fella, always good to get to this stage of a build with the motor painted. Not easy getting the lump into the frame on me own though; I now have more blisters than a schoolboy with a free subscription to pornhub lol
-
8 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Not at all - trying to keep the gasket in place whilst inverted and squeezing it past all the obstructions is a fate worse than death as witnessed by the posts due to oil leaks and displaced gaskets . Can try grease, but it's not as sticky!
That's exactly why I bought some generic stuff off eblag; juggling the cam cover on to the head while not displacing the "mickey mouse" o-rings e.t.c, would be difficult to say the least.
I think a couple of wires got crossed when it was mentioned that this should only be used on the ends of the rubber gasket that drop into sides of the head. To seal against oil leaks that's absolutely fine, but it can also be used to keep things in place.
Anyhow, I'm knackered after an engine re-fit so I'm off to park my arse for a bit!.
-
Pic showing the sealer in place where Jaydee mentioned :-
I'm sure it's fine to run without using this stuff anywhere else; Suzuki do recommend on my bike that a thin bead of 'three bond 1207b' (RTV silicone) is used between the upper face of the gasket and the channel in the cam cover where it sits.
https://www.techsil.co.uk/threebond-1207b-100g
Not sure why - maybe an attempt to get folk to part with more money for something that isn't really needed??
-
5 hours ago, Dukeman said:
Question - what is best for gasket stuff to seal the cam gasket in place... the old stuff was a green and there was not a huge amount.?
You should be able to reuse that gasket many times before replacing mate; if you mean that you just want something to hold it in place when refitting, this is what I bought for when I check my clearances.
https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/332588211441
Any high-temp silicone stuff should be ok but go sparingly with it!.
The CRC 'peel off' looks good
-
26 minutes ago, Lachie04 said:
Like a bought one but better
That's some serious oxidation well done
Thanks mate, that comment makes all the graft worthwhile
Too right about the corrosion; I've seen better engine paint on 34 yr old slabbies
-
2 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:
What a difference! Good job!
1 hour ago, wraith said:Looks good
Two OSS thumbs-ups; that'll do for me!, thanks fellas.
Should be lots of fun wrestling this into the frame tomorrow, the removable cradle should help though. After getting all the mounting bolts torqued up, the new exhaust studs will go in.
Next week I'll be dropping the front end (again) as it was only fitted to move the bike out of the way during painting. Got the legs rechromed recently by Dynasurf who did a bloody good job; rebuilt the forks with fresh seals, upper bushes and decent oil. The previous owner had an advisory for steering head bearings on the last MOT so I've bought some SKF taper rollers to replace the genuine jobbies.
Can't wait to get the front end back in cos' then things will really start coming together
-
1
-
-
Just sharing a couple of before/after pics of the GSX motor before it goes back into the frame this weekend.
This was taken in November last year; the bottom end wasn't too bad but check out that cam cover - what a mess eh. It's a common problem on these bikes; seen a few on Eblag that have had just the top ends resprayed.
After a few hours graft with a rotary wire brush and some scotch-brite pads; followed by a good degrease with some isopropyl alcohol I had kicking around. That blue 3M tape you see blanking off the ports e.t.c. is the dogs bollocks; even the wire brush barely scuffed it and as it's waterproof, it stood up to the degreasing - highly recommended. Cut a piece of thin plastic sheet to shape and stuck it over the gigantic alternator hole with some silicone sealer.
Et voila!, one 1998 GSX motor looking a whole lot better than it did before. My only minor gripe concerns the front of the crankcases where if you look real close, you can see what appears to be tiny white spots; this is spatter from the casting process that wasn't cleaned-up at the factory - tut, tut. Wish I'd noticed this beforehand but nevermind; it'll at least do me until the bigger engine Wraith suggested comes along
Oh and the paint is PJ1; chosen mainly because the engine paint I normally use is only available in gloss black and I wanted some colour contrast between the engine and the bike's (gloss black) bodywork - the PJ1 is more of a satin charcoal grey and not a million miles from the original.
Cheers folks-
7
-
-
33 minutes ago, Boothy said:
Lovely lovely bikes mate... Women can be replaced alot easier than GS1000S's
Amen to THAT brother!
-
1
-
-
The three bolts that shit the bed are fine now mate; still don't know how I managed to sort them TBH. Oodles of patience, a handful of cobalt bits, an M8 chaser tap and three well-placed pilot holes meant that I was able to reclaim the threads. The looseness I mentioned is the same across all the holes; i.e, even the five others that were put there by the factory.
Maybe I used the wrong term there; it's just when I screw a decent bolt in all the way (to a depth of about 19mm), it's not as tight as I would expect it to be. Thinking that the loctite may help to improve the fit; if you know what I mean.
Cheers
-
Sooo, bought a set of these studs today to replace the knackered original exhaust bolts on my GSX - a common problem on the centre pots due to the shorty mudguard .
Reason I was asking about the head temperature is cos' I'm thinking about using loctite when fitting the studs; partly to protect against future corrosion, and partly because the threads seem a little loose for some reason.
I assume loctite 271 (red) would be the better choice here due to it's ability to withstand higher temps.
Anyone done the same or have any thoughts on this?
-
The genuine zook manual reckons intake and exhaust are the same; i.e, 0.10 - 0.15mm
-
From the old OSS forum; float height = 14.6mm (+/- 1mm)
-
No worries mate. I don't have the specs for your bike but it is better to err on the looser side with the clearances on these oil-cooled motors.
Assume you're running the standard BST34SS carbs?. This vid is for the GSX750F BST36SS carbs but the float height setting procedure is the same; you'll need the height spec for your bike though!.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2wWLsHN-E0
-
Best tip for doing the valve clearances would be to get one of these :-
https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/152392241723
More expensive 'Motion Pro' style tappet adjusters :-
https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/192124022368
Float heights are an easy job. Measure from the base of each carb body to the top of the float making sure the float tang is just resting on the float needle; i.e not pressing down the spring
-
Lol, not too spendy at all Gix'
Being a tight-arsed twat (not really), I'll give Clive's suggestion a try first. Good to know even a new one is within my reach though.
Thanks lads
-
Thanks Latchie, just needed a ball-park figure for the head temperature really.
Did think about buying an IR temp reader but assume they cost a fair bit; one of those things that wouldn't be used enough to justify the price.
Cheers
-
How do folks,
Can anyone tell me what the "normal" operating temperature might be of a 750 oil cooled engine; especially the cylinder head?.
Thanks in advance
Petrol in Crank Case !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! work to do..
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Regarding spares; to avoid paying top whack for genuine parts, what I do is enter the genuine Suzuki part numbers into the Eblag search box - I've recently bought quite a few new old stock items at way under the recommended retail price. It's a bit of a crap shoot but you may get lucky.