[Cylinder head temp sensor]

19 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

Nope - it's there to block the hole used in the factory to line bore the camshaft bearings. Lots of people myself included use them to feed additional oil to the cams - as std. it's a blank plug with a hex to tighten it

So I can pull it out, tap it for my sensor, and put it back in? Or pull it to add oil line. Great! That solves my first temp sensor placement. 

 

Where do you normally get the oil lines from? What I mean is if you use those points to feed more oil to the cams, where do you get oil pressure from? And could I use that for the second sensor? 

[Cylinder head temp sensor]

17 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

Well there is one suitable bolt / screw that's already started - 4No on the sides of the head! And if you are cooking the engine its just natures way of telling you to ride faster or get out of traffic LOL!

Oh, you mean the one in that bolt in my first picture? Is it safe for me to take out that bolt and tap it? It's not gonna let something loose in the valve train, is it? 

[Cylinder head temp sensor]

14 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

Well there is one suitable bolt / screw that's already started - 4No on the sides of the head! And if you are cooking the engine its just natures way of telling you to ride faster or get out of traffic LOL!

Which ones on the side of the head? I don't know which one you're referring too. 

And is there anything in the sump other than the drain plug I can replace with a temp sensor? 

[Cylinder head temp sensor]

4 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

Not sure how successful JB weld will be as being primarily plastic it will insulate to a degree, also the tip of the sensor should ideally contact that which it is reading. Q - are the sensors both the same? Senders of that type are fairly slow response types and ideal for fluids - not air. Air temp sensors need to be fast response types or they are pointless.

If it were me i'd drill and tap a bolt in the head and mount one sender there and the other in the sump - same mounting or direct into a thick bit of the casting ...............that'll give useful data.

I had no idea that jb weld was mostly plastic. 

Both of the sensors are the same 

I don't really need the readings to be perfectly accurate. I just want to set an over temp warning on the koso clock so that I don't over do it. I can adjust the warning setting to what ever I want. So if the temp sensor is insulated, I can simply lower the warning level. So I can kinda calibrate for that. 

I don't want to drill into the casting if I don't have too. Even though it's aluminum, I don't have the right drill or bits to do it right. Might there be an auxiliary oil port or something that i can tap into? I don't mind drilling into a blocked off auxiliary oil port. But not into the actual cylinder head. 

I'll measure the sensors when I get home. 

Ideally, I'd be monitoring cylinder head temp, and oil temp coming out of the radiator. 

[Cylinder head temp sensor]

I've got the engine and clutch swapped. And put a koso clock on her. The clocks came with 2 temp sensors. I was thinking of mounting 1 of the temp sensors to the cylinder head, and use the other as an air temp sensor. 

 

Is there a part of the cylinder head that I should mount the temp sensor too? 

 

I'm not looking for a bang on perfectly accurate reading. But more of a general over all temp. 

 

I thought I'd jbweld the sensor in place. How does this sport look? What do you fellas think? 

[Did my bottom end let go?]

Last update for the night:

I put the gsxr outer basket(with the straight cut gears) back in the gsxr engine(which is in the bandit frame. 

I put the bandit inner basket(the dark gray one in the pictures above) in the gsxr because it's in much better condition. I double checked the washer/spacer orders, and torqued them both down. 

I put the clutch pack back in, added the top plate, springs and bolts, and torqued them down too. 

Before I put the side cover back on, I want to check which of the push rods is the right one. The difference in size is a couple of mm but I want to make sure I have the right one. Someone had already commented telling me not to mix them up.... I mixed them up.. 

So I tried putting the chain guard from the bandit engine back on, but it's sitting funny. It's got the spacers both in the right spot, but I ran out of sunlight so I had to put everything away.

Just before I closed up shop, I scrubbed the chain guard clean so I could get a good look at what's wrong. So tomorrow, that's job number 1.

Then I button everything back up, add oil, throw on the carbs, redo all of the electrical, and see if she starts! 

(and hopefully doesn't blow up ) 

 

Wish me luck. 

[Did my bottom end let go?]

Bingo!!! 

Checked the same gear on the gsxr. It's not a match. So I can't just swap that gear. 

[Did my bottom end let go?]

15 hours ago, Captain Chaos said:

the outer basket is connected to the crankshaft, the inner basket to the transmission. Inner basket should spin freely with transmission in neutral and no clutch plates installed.

If the inner basket spins freely with the clutch nut slightly loose, it could be a missing spacer or something like that. If it doesn't, could be a gearbox problem.

I see. Once I get it further into her I'll have a better idea. But there's another problem. Clutch basket on the bandit has angle cut gears, and the gsxr has straight cut gears. 

Is there anything I can do to swap the gears from one basket to another? 

[Did my bottom end let go?]

update: got the engine back in the bike.

I made a quick pair of A frame stands, and à barbell across them. Rigged up a pully system, tied a cradle around the engine and hoisted it up through the frame. Then with some wiggling, and grunting, help from my dad, and a car jack, I managed to get her in. 

When I took down the clutch on the gsxr engine, I found that the clutch basket was pretty badly grooved. 

I'll be swapping the clutch baskets tomorrow. 

Everything else seems to have fit perfectly. 

Also, I don't know exactly how it's all connected, but when I spin the inner clutch basket ring on the bandit engine, it's very hard to turn and grindy. But on the gsxr clutch basket, it spins smoothly with little to no resistance is that the transmission I'm spinning? Or is it the crank? There are no spark plugs in either engine yet. 

If spinning the inner basket on the bandit motor in neutral with the plugs out is really difficult, does that mean that my problem is something to do with the crank? 

Before I took the bandit engine out, I did a compression test and got ~150 psi on every cylinder. So I don't think it's the rings. 

[Did my bottom end let go?]

So I've got both engines out of the bikes. Can anyone sugest the best way to get an engine back in the bike alone? 

To take it out, I loosened all of the bolts holding the engine, then laid the bike on its side, and sort of shook the engine out of the bike. 

[Did my bottom end let go?]

18 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

FFS - get a manual and use it! They are available free online if you search!

Gonna google it now. 

[Did my bottom end let go?]

48 minutes ago, clivegto said:

Why swap all the electrics when you only need to swap the pick ups IF they are different.

Swapping the electrics is easy for me. I have never seen the pickups. And I'm worried about oil leaks from opening the cover and closing it. 

 

Also, I just realized I don't know any of the torque specs. Not for engine mounts, exhaust headers, case screws... Anyone have a chart? 

[Did my bottom end let go?]

21 hours ago, clivegto said:

Sump for oil cooler pipes & may be exhaust clearance. Some ignition pick ups have 1 pick up some have 2. If there the same no need to swap. No need to swap the cdi so long as you have he right ignition pick ups.

Instead of swapping the ignition pickups, could I use the gsxr harness, CDI box and stuff? Or is there a benefit to using the 1 or 2 pickups? 

[Did my bottom end let go?]

2 hours ago, Blubber said:

GF / BF / Mother in law / House / Job.....  ? 

I do have to get a better appartement and job ! Anyone hiring? 

[Did my bottom end let go?]

4 hours ago, CockneyRick said:

The wife?  

Single, sir. No wife to nag me to sell the bikes.

[Did my bottom end let go?]

6 hours ago, Mole28 said:

Inlet rubbers and you will have to do a minor re-plumb on the rocker cover breather. Make sure not to mix up the clutch push rods. leave them in the engines they came from.

Yeah, I assumed the inlet rubbers would have to come back over for the correct carb fitment. 

[Did my bottom end let go?]

3 minutes ago, Mole28 said:

Sump gaskets don't usually rip when taken off carefully., Unless someone has used excessive sealant on them. Ignition pickup cover gasket is easily made from cardboard (cereal packet birthday card or other single ply cardboard). Make sure to clean the oil pickup filter when you have the sump off. This filter will also give you an idea of what went wrong with the dead engine. You will have to use the sump and oil pickup from the bandit engine to match up with the bandit oil cooler lines. Remove and wash out the bandit oil cooler before restarting the bike.

Good to know thanks for the info! Is there anything else I should think about swapping? 

[Did my bottom end let go?]

7 hours ago, clivegto said:

Can be done in the frame, serial box's are your friend if your short of a gasket.

Wait, really? Does that work??? 

[Did my bottom end let go?]

5 minutes ago, clivegto said:

Sump for oil cooler pipes & may be exhaust clearance. Some ignition pick ups have 1 pick up some have 2. If there the same no need to swap. No need to swap the cdi so long as you have he right ignition pick ups.

I don't have gaskets for any of those. I'd have to order em in and delay the engine swap. Could I do those once the engine is back in the bandit frame? I'll have to check that this weekend. 

 

Anything else anyone can sugest I do? I'm familiar with these bikes, their electrical systems, carbs, all of that. But I've never upened up one of these engines until that clutch change. 

[Did my bottom end let go?]

46 minutes ago, clivegto said:

You might have to swap the sumps & oil pick up as well as the ignition pick ups .

Would changing the sump be because of frame/exhaust clearance? 

And why would I need to change the ignition pickups? Should I use the gsxr CDI box? 

[Did my bottom end let go?]

And once I get the bandit engine out, I'll open her up and find out exactly what happened.

[Did my bottom end let go?]

15 hours ago, clivegto said:

Should drop straight in.

Thank goodness! I hope you're right. Spent a few hours yesterday before work stripping both bikes. 

I'll be getting some help to swap the engines this weekend. 

[Did my bottom end let go?]

Here are the two bikes in question. The bandit is where I think the bottom end is gone. The 1100 is what I'm hoping to use as a temporary donner. 

[Did my bottom end let go?]

Going to pull the clutch side cover on the spare bike I've got. Check that the clutch baskets are identical so I can at least put the new clutch in it if I do need to swap the motor. 

The motor in the say what now!? is known good. Has a touch of clutch slip. So I want to swap it so I can still ride while I fix the 1127 motor. 

I'll swap it on the weekend, when  have time off and then start getting into the 1127 motor. 

Does anyone know if a u703 engine has same mounting points as a v706? 

[Did my bottom end let go?]

7 hours ago, nlovien said:

did you do the compression check after the fuel in cylinder issue ? if not take a look again - could be a bent rod to add to yir wow's

Compression test was after the fuel in cyl, an oil change, ran for a few min after oil change, changed clutch, fresh oil again. 

So 2 rounds of fresh oil.