ron
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Posts posted by ron
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ron
in Air Cooled
14 hours ago, gs7_11 said:Eh?
EH !! exactly its me having a senior moment lol god know what i was thinking of im not on drugs i promise lol
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ron
in Air Cooled
Hi to all thats answered my original post yesterday , I think i must of been having some kind of senior moment or im just getting senile, i can imagine some of you thinking what is this bloke on . Anyway , I somehow was thinking jet size 115 was 155 and that my jets of 130 were smaller than 115 . DOH sorry if i confused any of you , OK Start again jets fitted are 130 so they are BIGGER than the standard jets but i need to choke in effect the carbs by taping round the cone air filters to get it to run without to much fuss, a kneeler racing friend suggests the main jets are still to small. I think Wraith come up with a good idea to try size about 144 ish so think ill try these .Thanks again all who have helped and i do apologize for being a dumbass and confusing the issue , Its an age thing lol
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ron
in Air Cooled
5 minutes ago, Wolf said:Thing is with cone filters as speed increases the pasing wind runs carbs lean my vm26 slides also had 115 s oe and it almost cost me burnt valves from a runing lean . Try the shoping site 'wish' or 'ali x' for jets . Ithink dyna jet is also a good option
cheers ill look them up , I did notice before i put tape round cones my plugs were completely white and as you say i dont want burnt valves or worse a holed piston
23 minutes ago, Wolf said:mauvdw@gmail.com
iv got a jeting chart and some carb maintanance manuals i can mail thru if you want
jetting chart might be handy think ill get lager jets not sure to go with the 144 as been suggested by Wraith as these are bigger than whats fitted now or to go to standard 115 and adjust needle if need be jest costing £20 a set from Eblag not bad but cant afford to keep buying sets so im looking for the best option with a little bit of tweaking of needle air screws etc
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ron
in Air Cooled
25 minutes ago, Wolf said:mauvdw@gmail.com
iv got a jeting chart and some carb maintanance manuals i can mail thru if you want
jetting chart might be handy think ill get larger jets not sure to go with the 144 as been suggested by Wraith as these are bigger than whats fitted now or to go to standard 115 and adjust needle if need be jest costing £20 a set from Eblag not bad but cant afford to keep buying sets so im looking for the best option with a little bit of tweaking of needle air screws etc
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ron
in Air Cooled
wow big money could be quicker but bit risky with the quids have to be a bit frugal with my pension these days after all its just for a summer toy , my biking only days were over may years ago lol
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ron
in Air Cooled
according to the manual its supposed to be 115 as standard as far as i know these are the original carbs so 130 is far to small . as ive got non stock air filers that work better with lots of the are blocked off i was wondering if slightly over sized mains mains would work . the do make 158 jets for cv carbs 144 /6 are smaller than standard . I may be wrong but by taping the air filters would suggest to me that its getting to much air to fuel , seems to me at least that it needs more fuel to cope with the air filters i was wondering if anyone here had a gs 850 with these non stock filters on and had to rejet the carbs
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ron
in Air Cooled
41 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:Have you got the 'good' cones or the 'bad' cones?...............LOL They all flow more air but some more than others.
I'd stab at around 170-175 if std is 155 but that still be lean'ish. Are the carbs original to the bike as thats a possibility - someone has swopped carbs that don't have the same internals as the 850 types? If so - bigger jets is hit or miss - but you've nothing to lose by trying?
no idea what the cones are like good or bad they was on the carbs when i got them
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ron
in Air Cooled
No dont have stock filters , I have cleaned carbs fitted new idle jets and new needle valves with their filters adjusted floats with vernier gauge they are spot on , a friend gave me the idea to put tape around filters to determine if the mains were big enough checked them and seems their not . so thought id ask you chaps it has two 2 into one exhaust pipes with two reverse cone megga's on the end they do have baffles but are straight through i suppose the exhaust is not helping either
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ron
in Air Cooled
15 minutes ago, wraith said:A 155 main jet for standard sounds very big to me, I think I was running 136 or 144 on my old 850 with pod filters and open pipe.
Just had a look in the manual and it says 102 for slide carbs and 115 for CV standard.
Also as it's running OK at first and then plays up its not a lack of constant fuel check the breather hole in the tank cap is not blocked as this will let some fuel through but then air lock the tank and stopping more fuel coming out.
sorry my mistake it is 115 not 155 standard but it has 130's fitted and ran terrible but now ive tapped round the air filters blocking of probably 2/3ds air it runs ok so cant be vacuum in tank i will check anyway im thinking up the size of main jets to 160 and taking tape off air filters , was looking for input on possible jetting sizes on those filters
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ron
in Air Cooled
Hi all Im back again for more advice pls about gs 850 gt carb jets , ive had hell of time getting it to run properly starts fine 1st 2nd gear fine after that holds back runs like crap . however ive sussed out whats wrong by putting tape round the cone type air filters and leaving a small gap engine runs great now , so ive checked the main jets they are size 130 and manual says should be size 155 a previous owner must of fitted them. my question is , ive got them cone type air filters no doubt giving more air than a standard air box , so im thinking instead of buying size 155 standard mains but getting 160 mains . can anyone with a bit of carb jetting experience advise on this please carbs are the cv type many thanks for any help
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yep it had a hard life by the looks of it but lump missing or not it didnt leak and as ive said nothing was blocked on it until the piston and rubbers were fitted then it seemed as if it was blocked . still dont matter now it been filed in the bin and a much later second hand part has been fitted and is working , shame i couldn't find exactly what was wrong just for future reference
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hooray finally got the rear brakes bled , thanks to a used master cylinder off another make of bike as no one anywhere i could find an old Suzuki M Cylinder had to make my own fixing bracket and long push rod bar but finally I have rear brakes again thanks every one who has helped with your suggestions trying to work out exactly why my original cylinder wouldn't pump , im sticking with my theory that the forward rubber seal had swollen slightly and blocked the otherwise clear fluid feed hole. dont matter now anyway its sorted . thanks everyone.
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ha ha ive given up with that although it was good inside no scores etc and it didnt leak im sure the front seal had swollen and was blocking the feed hole hence it wouldn't pump because fluid wasn't getting in. The holes were clear without the piston fitted, blocked fitted ???? so now got a similar cylinder from another bike and in the process of fitting that fingers crossed it works .
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ive picked up two master cylinders today hopefully one will work ok but they measure 50 cm centers or just under 2 inches
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yes definitely worn , but dont leak fluid so should pump. the inlet holes in the cylinder are clear, my theory is , the fluid should drain into the cylinder in front of the first seal next to spring . Therefore if with the piston in full brake release position back at the stop , holding it ,it should be possible to blow through it, but i cant or suck through it , i may be wrong but if i cant blow through it then when fitted to bike the fluid wont be able to get in it either therefore it wont be able to pump , which is whats happening , now im thinking these rubbers may well be as old as the bike which is 1980 so i reckon they have swollen the first rubber then blocking the feed hole the second rubber is definitely swollen as i cant fit it back in any more , im going to 3 bike breakers tomorrow to try get a second hand working unit but last resort ill try get a repair kit my unit is old and bits are chipping off it so a better second hand one would be cheaper than a new unit thats very expensive
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I think ill probably have to do as you say im afraid only problem is finding one there seems to be lots in USA but finding these vintage parts in GB is a real task had to get carb intake boots from the states , i think all the import ones have a wider fixing hole space so i would have to make some kind of extension to the original fixing bracket . the thing is a dam pain in the ar..e
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the only bit that looks different is the feed mine is a plastic elbow where this is a straight at right angle to cylinder but the parts or whole cylinder may be the same , im takeing mine to my local bike shop tomorrow to see if they can recognize this part id like to get new rubbers thanks for the links
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that looks like all the used ones on Eblag but they are all in the usa and if you look its priced in dollars so i believe the pic is a usa import , its very very similar apart from the inlet pipe and the fact the fixing bolt holes are further apart i believe the one i have is for the European market but thanks anyway
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Also ive found the small hole inside the cylinder below the feed hole and i managed to get a bent pin in it and give it a very good poke until the pin went right in so im confident now that its clear of debris too found back larger rubber has swollen and is very hard to get back in so gonna try sauce some new rubbers tomorrow
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i've attached pic of the offending animal for those who are interested in my problem im sure this is the original master cylinder from when the trike was a bike
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ill get it off today and put a pic on here here but im pretty dam sure its the original cylinder , made in japan and fitted in original place etc ill get pics of it and the piston and rubbers a bit later today
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Thanks for your reply strangely i was just thinking of that myself its starting to occur to me that if it wont pump and i cant bleed either normally or with a strong vacuum from a bleed nipple or an easy bleed something is blocked , ive back filled the pipe system with bleed nipples open in turn inc the banjo at top of cylinder , all are free and fluid flows perfectly can only logically be the master cylinder, and with the piston out the cylinder is clear. Put piston back in even without the rod i cant make it work in hand by putting fluid in manually. im also thinking perhaps the rubbers have expanded over the years and are blocking the inlet hole, im positive it can only be for what ever reason it is one of the seals some how covering the hole inside the cylinder. Got to fix this pain in the bum problem as mot is soon, plus i cant find anywhere i can find a new or good second hand one in GB plus the rubber kits dont look the same IE mine has two piston rubbers both fit over piston via centre hole and front one is slightly slimmer than back one, all the new rubber kits i can see have one fit over rubber and a flat sit on rubber (no centre hole) I know this is an old vintage bike but why are parts so dammed hard to get . if i get this fixed ill put a post on here what i did to fix it in case anyone else get the same trouble . Thanks again for your help it seems to confirm my theory , and thanks for everyone else who have helped with their input
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this looks nothing like my master cylinder I dont have a photo of it as yet i cant tell where the holes are in your pic . would they be under where the pipe from the inlet reservoir fits into the M cylinder ? . when you mentioned the small hole i thought you meant actually inside cylinder you can only see that hole after taking piston complete with two rubber seals and the spring out of cylinder. If these holes are under the inlet of the cylinder why would the small hole completely stop fluid getting into the cylinder surly the bigger hole is the feed for fluid and the small hole is just a release of expanded fluid back into the cylinder however i will try to get the feed pipe out and have a look , im a bit dubious of this as mine is like your pic broken on one side and looks fragile but as it is its not leaking so far , more investigating is needed i think and ill see if my local bike shop can get me some new piston rubbers thank you for your help im at a loss at mo
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oh right ive seen one small hole about half way down inside the cylinder would be just before the top rubber with the spring fully extended so there is another much smaller hole am i reading your reply correct to think its further in , lower than the big hole . Just to be certain would this small hole be past by the top rubber after the bigger hole or vice versa sorry to be a pain just wanna be absolutely clear where to look. thank you very much for the info i had know idea there was a second hole , ive never had a problem like this before car or bike
ron
in Air Cooled
Posted
thanks for the offer but ive ordered new 4 jets this morning from Koolinquiet on Eblag £12.76 free delivery bargain I thought they have dispatched them already hopefully they will do the job Many thanks