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MSteenJ

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Posts posted by MSteenJ

  1. The float valve is in good condition with a good spring and without grooves. The float is also leveled.

    I tried to suck through the vacuum hose to the petcock, and gas came through it. My thinking is that gas flow to the top of the carb 1 through the vacuum hose, flooding the came.

    putting it on prime does not make any og the carburetors overflow, why i ruled the float valves out.

    i will however check the float valves until the new petcock arrives.

  2. UPDATE:

    I started the motorcycle today, and all four cylinders were running!!!

    A lot of smoke though. Hmmm. 

    Then suddently, cyl 1 stopped...

    I then saw that carb 1 was leaking from the top and noticed the vacum hose was wet. I drained the fuel bowl of carb 1 and there was a lot more gas than the bowl alone could fit. I removed the spark plug and let the gas in the cylinder evaporate. When i felt like it was dry, i put the petcock on prime for just a sec or two and then shut it off completly. The engine then started on all four cylinders Until the bowl Ran dry of course!!! 

    silly me, that i didnt even give the old petcock a thought throughout the engine rebuild...

    oh well, off to buy a repair kit for it. Hopefully this is the Only culprit.
     

    thanks again,

    i will return once i have fixed it, maybe next weekend.

    • Like 2
  3. Thanks for the replies!!!

    I know i have a spark, since switching the leads between 1&4 didnt solve the problem(cyl 1 still didnt fire).
    Same thing when i swapped the coils...
    The spark plugs are BRAND new, put them in yesterday.

    I will try and find the original carbs, clean them up and try it out, hopefully it will be a carb related problem.

    Thank you, ill keep you posted later today.
     

  4. Hello everyone,

    I hope one of you brainy folks can help me:
    My Suzuki gsx1100 ES has been haunting me for some time...

    I simply cannot get cylinder 1 to fire.

    My bike has a carburetor bank of Mikuni BST36SS on it with a dynojet kit stage 3 in it, a freeflowing 4-1 exhaust and dual KN-filters.
    It has 150 mains and the pilot mixture screw is 2.5 turns out.

    It easily turns on, idles and revs fine BUT without cylinder 1. (exhaust manifold is cold) 

    I have tried switching the two coils, and also the leads between 1&4 without any luck. 
    Compression is at 120+-5 on a stone cold engine.
    The carburetors has been ultrasonicly cleaned.
    The valves has been adjusted.
    The ignition timing has been adjusted.
    The rubber boots are in good condition and without cracks or signs of wear.

    I cannot figure out what the issue is.

    Any guesses?

    Best Regards
    Morten
     

  5. I've just tried to hook it up as you guys mentioned coil 1 to 1 and 4, coil 2 to 2 and 3. It fired up fairly quickly but only cylinder 2 and 3 was  firing, which i got from only those two exhausts were smoking hot,  cyl 1 and 4 was cold but not ice cold (100F/40C-ish). 
    I then tried to see if there was spark on all four, and yes! a nice fat blue spark on all cylinders.

    Ok so far so good. 
    I then tried switching the coils and corresponding wires from the CDI, and same story. Only cylinder 2 and 3 was firing.
     

    I doubt that cyl 1 and 4 are not getting fuel, because the carbs are just cleaned, but i will try and put the old original 34mm vacuum on it and see if it fixes it.
    (currently it has a set of bst36ss on it with dual oval kn filters and stage 3 kit from dynojet) 

    Anything i should try to test?
    I have no idea of what it can be.

     

    Thank you

     

  6. I will try and wire up the HT leads in the order you all describes, and properbly order a new set since the resistance in the primary is that much lower than 3-5 ohm's.
    Thank you guys, although im feeling quite stupid that it might be this simple... o.0

    • Like 2
  7. Hi fellow suzuki riders,

    I have a problem with my 1982 suzuki gsx1100.
    I have two dead cylinders 2 and 4, but 1 and 3 runs ok.

    I can start it which is quite hard and ride it at 27km/h at FULL throttle, which is even harder.
    I have a new battery on, around 120 psi cold compression on all four, completely rebuild carburetors(ultra sonicly cleaned) and newly refurbished cylinder head with adjusted valves.

    When i went through the wiring and testing of it, i meassured the coils primary to 1.8ohm and secondary to 26.5k ohm, on both coils, which is within specs as what i could tell from my haynes manual. 
    I then came to the ignitor and noticed  that it became untouchably hot after just a few seconds. 
    Can this cause my possible misfiring conditions of the 2 cylinders and poor performance and how in the world do i fix it?

    I should mention that i gave it a new wiring harness with a Moto Gadget M-unit blue, original rectifier and starter.

    Thank you
    Morten

  8. Thank you all for your replies, still learning about basic engine knowledge. 
    Could it maybe be that the cracks have affected the sparkplug holes threads?
    The reason i might think this is because i've tried torquing(10nm) the spark plugs in and the two good cylinders are all good but the two bad ones sit 2-3 threads height further up. Can this be where the chamber is loosing so much compression?

    Btw. If i keep this head i will be getting new valves then, thank you say what now!? 1460

  9. I was hoping for a fairly easy swap, dang it.

    The reason i think i need a new head is because these two cracked cylinders have 40psi while my other two good ones has 130. Valves are newly adjusted and pouring a bit of oil into the two bad cylinders didn't really help (maybe 50-55psi).

    Should i just "hunt" for a new original head?

  10. Unfortunately as of today as i was going to clean out the head and lap the valves, i discovered a crack between the sparkplugwell and an inlet valve in cylinder 2 and 3.
    So i guess ill be needing a new head. The rest of the engine looks REALLY good, pistons, walls, cams, rockers etc. 

    What head will be my best option?
    I've read that a GSXR1100 (86-90) or GSXR750(87-89 short stroke) would be a good improvement cause of better airflow. 
    Are one of these a straight bolt on or what should i be expecting? 

    35927177_10216542044847770_2619844748214534144_n.jpg

    35749769_10216542041967698_853554011968634880_n.jpg

  11. So i got my hands on a set of bst36ss from a 1998 bandit 1200. I was wondering which dynojet kit is the best for my 1100 kat engine(83) with a free flowing exhaust.
    I was thinking a gsxr1100 stage 3 kit, but is it even compatible with the bst36ss from a bandit 1200?
    Please help guys :---)

  12. Hello,

    I have been wondering if my bike would benefit from switching to 10W50 full synthetic instead of 10W40 semi synthetic.
    Both castrol power 1, but racing for the full synthetic of course.

    My bike has 70k km (45k miles) on it, and some of my friends told me that the old bike would benefit from the thicker oil.

    What are your opinions.

    Best regards
    Morten

  13. Hey guys, been on holiday, so haven't been checking in here.

    The setup with original carbs, and the free flowing exhaust works alright, at least the spark plugs tells me so. The ignition is standard, and delivers a good spark over all four plugs. 

    By pure luck i would say, i got a hold of a set of BST36SS in very good condition for only 80$, i plan to attach the K&N dual flange filters as you mention. Now the question comes to what jetting i need to use. If you could find the jet sizing, that would be a huge help, but if not, i'm going to be a pro with uninstalling and installing the carbs i guess :D.

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