Legotoy
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Posts posted by Legotoy
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No needle tubes. What you get is 3 sizes of main jets, new needles and clips and new slide springs. Used it all and followed the instructions. Excellent stuff but not cheap! Set up purely on the road.
I have just got a 1074 WC motor so won't bother setting up the 937 any further as it rides lovely as is. I suspect it is down on power as compression is a bit down on 937 from worn bores.
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Oh the jetting. My motor also RF/GSXR hybrid. I started at 150 mains but the idle speed was hung up at 2,000 rpm even with the pilot all the way in!!! I.e. no pilot! Mains have a huge effect all through throttle position I learned the hard way.
I'm now 147.5 main which is the middle set of jets from my Factory Pro kit. Runs rich but buttery smooth all through the revs mmmm.
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Hey thanks. The front end is a cheat - "fauxO-lins".
It's actually all standard Triumph T509/595 given a cheeky Ohlins/Brembo make over. That's why mechanical speedo is on opposite side. Trumpet speedo cable went straight in my Bandit clocks though.
Oh and sitting in SRAD 600 yokes with welded lock stops and Marksman head bearing kit.
Static sag is 35mm on max preload though, so rides like shit until I can get stiffer fork springs.
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I must have been unlucky, or maybe did something wrong. Same arm though.
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I have done this myself just recently and I feel the need to jump in and point out a few details I don't think have been covered yet. The pivot bearing sleeves from braced arm do indeed slip inside the earlier banana arm bearings, but that is where the easy stuff ends...
You will find the spacer tube between the bearings is different between the two arms. The banana arm spacer has to be used otherwise your sleeves will not be kept in place. And the banana spacer DOES NOT slip inside the braced arm spacer. I had to trim 2mm from the overall length too as the are not the same width either - meaning your bearing sleeves sit proud and don't allow full tightening of the spindle. On a dry build the arm floated side to side by about 2mm.
I would love to hear how MadB got around this? Also which dust seals to use? I used braced arm ones with banana spacers left proud by the corresponding amount. They have thrust washers inside and so need to be part of the overall solution.
Basically it was all done in a day but involved a great deal of trial fitting, very careful measuring and consideration of which combo of parts to use. And finally stuff did need modification, wasn't a bolt in job.
The arms are the same weight (checked on scales) but the braced looks a million times better which makes it worthwhile IMO.
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To bling up the callipers I had some Re-branding done. Yes it's cheating, but looks awesome IMO!
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On 3/6/2017 at 9:05 PM, markfoggy said:
I always, always, cut some meat out from under the bearing...
Top tip! Thanks.
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I decided to get a professional finish on my callipers and forks - look nice I think! They will get painted though but shiny parts are very satisfying.
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Hi, I didn't have a clue either to be honest. I did a dry fit and it didn't seem that the spacers were needed.
One thing though is that because the top race is much wider than standard it will be IMPOSSIBLE to remove once seated. That's because there is no lip to get a driver under. For that reason I did not seat the top race all the way when doing a dry build, so I could lever it out later.
I would suggest using the spacers under the bearing race, so the spacer can be used to drive out the bearing should you ever need to change it. Again I haven't tried as I plan to stack them up and see once I'm ready for final fit.
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The Marksman bearing is a complete top bearing, need to use the race it is supplied with. SRAD stems are much thicker at top, so need a wider bearing. Marksman remove material from the race itself to get it to fit back in the headstock. You can use the standard early GSXR lower bearing on the bottom though.
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I'm also thinking of welding the old stops back on but in the right place to actually offer some steering lock!
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If anyone else is doing the Marksman bearing mod to swap a SRAD front into an older GSXR then just be aware the machined top race has very little meat left to get a drift on - makes it very tricky to seat in the frame!
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Just taking the lock stops off the SRAD lower yoke - haven't decided whether to add stops to the frame or yoke yet...
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Here's a good tip I read recently - hammering a 'cast' finish back onto the caliper halves using very coarse sandpaper and a mallet.
Hopefully the pics show the difference. I'll give them a coat of paint to further blend in the finish.
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The other thing is I can't reuse my GSXR Nissins, since the Suzuki is 90mm as we all know, but Triumph specced 83mm between bolt centres.
so I have the Daytona calipers - debadged of course! I can swap over my new sintered pads between calipers though as they are the same fitment otherwise.
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To save hassle I got the complete wheel, spindle, speedo etc from the Trumpet. The SRAD 600 yokes are 2mm narrower between centres than the Daytona, so when dry fitted the wheel is 4mm from right, and 6mm from the left.
Needs a 1mm spacer between the right fork leg and outside of speedo drive to line it up. Amazingly close though...
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I paid a lot for my paint job, so the other good news is I think I can reuse the GSXR mudguard with the Daytona brackets since the mounts on the Trumpy are just plastic clips around the fork legs.
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Not a full on project, but since my OE forks are knackered I fancied something different on the front end. Also just for the joy of mixing and matching parts.
I'm going to use SRAD 600 yokes in my 1992 GSXR 'fighter, and put some Trumpet Daytona forks in them - 45mm forks legs if you're interested.
The forks slip straight in obviously.
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Cool, look forward to that
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19 hours ago, Madb said:
... ya prefer cable clutch use the rf6 sprocket cover...
Hi Madb - not sure the cable conversion would work. The RF600 lifter is on the clutch cover, not the sprocket cover. So RF600 doesn't operate via a pushrod through the layshaft like the RF900 does. Shame as I'd way prefer a cable clutch on my 9!
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Buy an RF900 engine and swap the head for your GSXR one - it goes right on using the RF head gasket. Instant 937cc big bore. There are a few other bits to swap like water pipes, but they all swap over between engines. FYI RF's have a magnesium points cover too. There are loads of threads from people who have done this if you use the search function on here. Good luck.
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That's interesting - I did not know that was one of the changes to the later 11
cheers guys
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Really? I'd be interested to know how they fit since the 1100 has the thermostat outside the frame rail (between frame and fairing on the right), and the 750 has the thermostat under the petrol tank, behind the headstock.
Also the 750 has a water to oil heat exchanger around the oil filter, whereas the 1100 has a separate oil cooler, so will you have surplus hoses for that in the kit?
GSXR 750 differences in swing arms
in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes
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Yeah its amazing really. Gsxr mudguard bolted on too.