Jump to content

non starter


philwright

Recommended Posts

On 10/14/2018 at 11:55 AM, philwright said:

Thanks for all the good advice...quick question, I have somehow managed to mix up the emulsion tubes, i had intended to put each one back in the carb it came from, will it make any difference?

It's always good not to mix them, but what's done is done and to be fair they probably worn anyhow so won't make that much difference.

Link to comment

Also remember float bowls hold the assembly in place. As said above gentle and patience.

Really need a good source of compressed air to blow down all chambers.

I'm wondering if to tell you to remove pilot screws why you in bits, should do really but these may be stuck and where they set too is really important.

Really would not hurt to get genuine workshop manual and have read then your understand better what we trying to say. They not expensive and such good reference for base model specs.

Link to comment

Got the bike running!...just took it for a test flight  and its about 90% running right, theres a bit of reluctance and fluffiness when pulling away and it  needs revving a bit before it clears its throat and takes off but its a lot better than what it was, mid and top range revs cleanly and it flies!....Factory manual says poor low speed running points to pilot jets, i'm reluctant to strip the carbs off again if I can help it though I might have to ,i'm gonna feed it some of that Pro FST carby stuff first and see if theres any improvement...thanks for all the invaluable help from you lads, much appreciated.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Checked and adjusted valve clearances and bike is now running almost as it should , i'll get round to taking it to my local friendly bike garage to get the carbs properly balanced as soon as I can , I treated it to a dose of that Profi fuel Max carb cleaner and it does seem to have smoothed things out a bit, one thing I have noticed though ,it seems to be drinking quite a bit more juice than it was, I put a fivers worth in and got less than 20 miles on it, I used to get closer to 30ish...not sure what could be causing that?

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Check one big fundamental straight away Suzuki rubbish fuel tap. I presume it's vacuum tap, if so make sure it's actually shutting off. Obviously if your riding with this consumption it's not that.

But £5 Not much fuel if your ragging it. If through steady riding check float/ fuel height. 

Also to spark plug check after good play without any cruising.

Again that does not seem that bad consumption.

Link to comment
7 hours ago, philwright said:

I put a fivers worth in and got less than 20 miles on it, I used to get closer to 30ish...not sure what could be causing that?

It's called inflation.  You get less fuel for a fiver than 10 years ago. In another 10 years you'll be telling us how you used to get 20 miles from a fiver worth and now you only get 10 miles! :D

Link to comment

 

2 minutes ago, Jaydee said:

It's called inflation.  You get less fuel for a fiver than 10 years ago. In another 10 years you'll be telling us how you used to get 20 miles from a fiver worth and now you only get 10 miles! :D

Yeah I know...the way petrol is going up every week, maybe i'm overreacting, I fitted new fuel tap before reassembling carbs and refitting it all back together, the old one wasn't working properly in Prime position, and to be fair I have been giving it the bollox ...just to check the carburation...LOL.

Link to comment

Buy a Carbtune balancer....you will recover the cost with your first saved garage bill!

 

Plus those carbs will need redoing after 100 miles, then 500 miles, then every thousand if you develop an anal sense of perfection (which you will).

 

Buy a remote tank from Demon Tweaks. Watch how to do it on YouTube. 

I cant see 1500rpm because it doesnt show on my rev counter, but i have a reasonably good idea/ system now.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment

 Just when I thought I had got things sorted, went out for a run this afternoon and the bike starts and runs fine from cold, after about ten miles I hit a bit of traffic and the motor was getting pretty hot and the bike started running like a bag of nails, struggling to pull away in first and second but once in third and gathering speed it smooths out and flies, the bike  normally idles good from cold but when hot this afternoon it was struggling to keep a steady idle and easily stalled...i'm just about ready to pull what hair I;ve got left out!!...what is going on ?

Link to comment

This may not be a carb problem at all. It is possible that it's a tracking high tension lead on the plug boot. I've had this happen to me, drove me nuts till I found it. I admit this is a bit of a long shot but dead easy to eliminate the possability. Simple wrap each plug boot with one layer of electrical tape in the area that slides down into the head to the plug. Test ride the bike and see if the problem still exsists. Good luck.

Link to comment
8 hours ago, billd said:

This may not be a carb problem at all. It is possible that it's a tracking high tension lead on the plug boot. I've had this happen to me, drove me nuts till I found it. I admit this is a bit of a long shot but dead easy to eliminate the possability. Simple wrap each plug boot with one layer of electrical tape in the area that slides down into the head to the plug. Test ride the bike and see if the problem still exsists. Good luck.

Can you explain in simple terms what causes this @billd, electrics is something im not very good at understanding.  Thank you

Link to comment

In a past life I was an electrician so I will try.  First off it may no be this as I said a bit of a long shot. . With age the rubber boot starts to break down, it's dielectric strength weakens due to the constant high voltage stress it is under and its close proxsimitey to the chassis ground, the cylinder head. When I discovered it on a 916 Ducati I noticed a thin blue line on the side of the boot on closer inspection it was a crack in the boot and the spark for that cylinder would iradically miss fire. In that case at low RPM  and clear up at higher RPM. I realize if you have adjusted or worked on the carbs one would expect that to be the root cause but age or unplugging and handling the spark plug caps or a combination of both could also be the cause. Taping the plug boot adds to its dielectric strength once more, does not allow the easier path to earth rather than the air gap at the spark plug..............sorry to be so long winded about it but .......

  • Like 1
Link to comment
21 minutes ago, billd said:

In a past life I was an electrician so I will try.  First off it may no be this as I said a bit of a long shot. . With age the rubber boot starts to break down, it's dielectric strength weakens due to the constant high voltage stress it is under and its close proxsimitey to the chassis ground, the cylinder head. When I discovered it on a 916 Ducati I noticed a thin blue line on the side of the boot on closer inspection it was a crack in the boot and the spark for that cylinder would iradically miss fire. In that case at low RPM  and clear up at higher RPM. I realize if you have adjusted or worked on the carbs one would expect that to be the root cause but age or unplugging and handling the spark plug caps or a combination of both could also be the cause. Taping the plug boot adds to its dielectric strength once more, does not allow the easier path to earth rather than the air gap at the spark plug..............sorry to be so long winded about it but .......

Thank you for such an informed reply. Learn something new every day. I wanted to understand for general future reference for any bike.

(y)

Link to comment
On 11/2/2018 at 5:27 PM, philwright said:

 Just when I thought I had got things sorted, went out for a run this afternoon and the bike starts and runs fine from cold, after about ten miles I hit a bit of traffic and the motor was getting pretty hot and the bike started running like a bag of nails, struggling to pull away in first and second but once in third and gathering speed it smooths out and flies, the bike  normally idles good from cold but when hot this afternoon it was struggling to keep a steady idle and easily stalled...i'm just about ready to pull what hair I;ve got left out!!...what is going on ?

Are you sure valve clearances are correct.

Ive had dyna coils play up when hot. 

Heat gun on exhaust when it plays up might help then start swapping coils left to right see if fault moves your know for certain if ignition then.

Edited by jonny1bump
Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...