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1100M tweeked by FBM


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Il let Greg post but got it running really sweet and regular as clock works power wise was good for the amount of boost and good torque we did want to run more boost but the boost controller was useless so we only got 12psi at best but the bike will run 15psi all day nice a good on the fueling he’s going to just fit a 15psi wastegate actuator with that I’d see it easy running 240hp constantly 

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3 minutes ago, jonny1bump said:

Fantastic and well deserved.

Interesting Jonny we also played with the kill time on the quick shifter and it confirmed your theory on the gear selector we tried 50 and 60ms @ 60ms it is at its smoothest however perfect below 3500 and above 5000 but between that very abrupt almost like at that rpm the way the box selection is done just doesn’t suit a shifter my own bike is very much the same I couldn’t set it bye gear or rpm sadly so it’s fixed but 60ms was sweet

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I found strain gauge type works well as long as you use strong ident spring and fettle the drum and gearbox, It sort of ignores the different shift points then because its concentrating on the effort to engage rather then the action. I hope that makes sense.

Edited by jonny1bump
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Big thanks to Nick @Allspeedsfor sorting it out. Very pleased with it.

Unfortunately it had been setup before by someone else who I can only imagine turns up to work on horse back and wears a large brimmed hat. After seeing the amount of work Nick put into getting the fueling right compared to the other guy....all I can say is I wish I'd know Nick before I'd taken it to the "expert" up North!

It was lean pretty much every where, multiple dyno runs later and a couple of changes in main jets, Nick did some other tweeks, more runs, followed by more runs and by the end of the day the fueling was spot on, the bike sounded far fitter, idled lovely and throttle response was instant. 

Like Nick had said, the Turbosmart boost controller wouldn't give us more than 12 psi, trying to increase it only made the boost spikey but gave no more psi increase. Time for the boost controller to head bin wards, to be replaced with a decent actuator with a 14 psi spring. 

The final figure on 11 psi was 218 with 135 lb/ft of torque. Need more boost now :banana:

@clivegtosorry didn't get chance to pop in on way home. 

Edited by Wee Man
Forgot stuff...Old and senile
  • Like 7
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With ya springs Greg I looked at charts and got confused as nothing seem to match colours for what psi i had so I connected wastegate direct to compressor using a simple air reg with gauge. As you see piston start to lift as you wind up air pressure that gives accurate psi reference for spring or springs. Worked for me especially as raided friends box springs. Sadly I only found 1 bar and 19 psi, the 19 made fueling proper lean out, which found confusing as 1 to 1 boost reference reg I Would have thought would sort this. Anyway still learning alot when comes to these hair dryers.

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Rather than fanny about with springs etc, working out what does what and then again when the tenperature changes etc, I can recomend something like this.

https://rspec.co.uk/boost-controllers-electronic-boost-controllers-c-69_109/52mm-pro-iebc-electronic-boost-controller-bar-p-644.html

Leave base pressure spring in that gives 5-7psi. 

Then you can dial in whatever boost you want above that by flicking a switch and turning a dial. Had mine on dash and could change it easily while riding. Mines been dead reliable for 6 years.

Used to be able to find them without the gauge for about £85 if you search.

Edited by MeanBean49
  • Like 3
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I just run a fixed 22psi crack off pressure spring no nonsense  tried electrical boost controller not to be trusted erratic as fuck I think if I tried again I do same as pro street and just put air on top of gate via a solinoid and small air tank just add desired psi of boost required that’s what I did to run 400hp 

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I don't know if they've progressed any since I was party to some of the SSB inner workings but their air set-up's then were just about enough to complete 5 shifts and hold boost as programmed for 6 seconds. The boost control applied air above and below the WG diaphragm with a moderately 'softer' spring to give a wider dynamic boost range. Its a great control but uses a lot of air as its effectively a controlled leak. I played with an AMS1000 controller using gear settings to vary boost but never got it sorted sufficiently to say if it was good or not - but for a road bike, not having to rely on high pressure air for control was a bonus - for me at least!

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48 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

I don't know if they've progressed any since I was party to some of the SSB inner workings but their air set-up's then were just about enough to complete 5 shifts and hold boost as programmed for 6 seconds. The boost control applied air above and below the WG diaphragm with a moderately 'softer' spring to give a wider dynamic boost range. Its a great control but uses a lot of air as its effectively a controlled leak. I played with an AMS1000 controller using gear settings to vary boost but never got it sorted sufficiently to say if it was good or not - but for a road bike, not having to rely on high pressure air for control was a bonus - for me at least!

I do agree you would have to use an  n board compressor maybe for road use maybe? I just really struggled with the electric one I had I was pretty dangerous how it worked but it was designed for cars we tested it loads using a leak down tester and it would regulate pressure every time we would then dyno test it and the bike would try spool to the moon! One thing we wondered after removing it for safety was if it wasn’t seeing correct manifold pressure (it took a reading to its box of electrickery) there for not able to do it’s job I don’t know it was two years ago to remember but we did come up with a theory that made sense :D

I do still have it and it’s instructions 

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1 hour ago, Allspeeds said:

I do agree you would have to use an  n board compressor maybe for road use maybe? I just really struggled with the electric one I had I was pretty dangerous how it worked but it was designed for cars we tested it loads using a leak down tester and it would regulate pressure every time we would then dyno test it and the bike would try spool to the moon! One thing we wondered after removing it for safety was if it wasn’t seeing correct manifold pressure (it took a reading to its box of electrickery) there for not able to do it’s job I don’t know it was two years ago to remember but we did come up with a theory that made sense :D

I do still have it and it’s instructions 

Try one like mine. :tu

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15 hours ago, jonny1bump said:

Greg remember your only really interested in quick shifter been spot on when your close to red line, at end day they designed for racing and flat out shifts.

Normal riding should still use your clutch.

Not strictly true. Well setup quickshifter will work just as well at low rpm and small throttle openings too.

New bike ones are amazing, you can litterally go up and down the box at steady throttle not much above tickover. Granted they do have a bit more controlling them than a fixed kill time.

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1 hour ago, jonny1bump said:

I completely agree on new stuff but not with our old clunkers Rob.

Ive had no issues with ignitech one, maybe to do with being able to play with the delay time as well as the kill time.

Granted its not like a new bike, but its not like oldskool quickshifters either that only work flat chat at high rpm

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1 hour ago, MeanBean49 said:

Ive had no issues with ignitech one, maybe to do with being able to play with the delay time as well as the kill time.

Granted its not like a new bike, but its not like oldskool quickshifters either that only work flat chat at high rpm

what delay are you using? i have found 60Ms of kill good so far

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